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Old 11-12-2015, 12:52 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Lets build a CL-41 Tutor Jet (Photo Walkthrough)

I am currently building my second "test" Tutor Jet model.
I think I worked out all the parts, kinks, tweaks, and bugs in the first build (the Snowbirds version).
So lets build a Golden Centennaires version of the Canadair CL-41 (RCAF CT-114 designation).

This will be a complete photo walkthrough with a suggested order of build.
You can, of course, follow your own method and make any changes to the assembly as you wish.
What I show you here is only a suggested assembly method and may not be the optimal method.

We start by preparing the internal formers.
The model has one sheet of formers for the fuselage, wings and tail wings.
Print the sheet on regular weight paper and glue it to heavier card.
I use two layers of Cereal Box card, laminated together using 3M Spray 77 Glue.

Everything that is glued should be allowed to setup as long as possible before cutting or assembly.
This applies to any part on the model.
Patience gives rewards when building a paper model.

Here I have cut out all the fuselage formers.
I cut directly on the outside lines as best as possible (not inside or outside).
I sand and shape with nail files and emery boards as much as necessary.

Note that I have notched the nose former for the wheel well box...this is optional.



...
Next I prepare the first sheet of model parts...
I am focusing on the fuselage parts, but I still prepare the entire sheet.
It is at this time that I can prescore any fold lines before cutting out parts.

I use a regular Hobby/Craft Knife with a dulled blade.
The blade has been flattened against a stone and sandpaper.



...
Now I cut out all the fuselage parts that I will need.
Some modellers like to cut out all their parts and store them until they are used.
I prefer to cut out only parts I am working with so I don't lose part numbers.
There is no right way to do this.

I also cut out and prepare all the joiner strips for the fuselage parts.
And this is where I edge colour my parts.

Personally, I use Art Markers for my edge colouring.
Markers can apply too much ink and bleed into the parts. It takes practice to learn how to use them.
Some modellers prefer using pencils, pastels or paints.

You can see I have also cut out the nose wheel well box,
and the nose strakes (side skirts)
and the nose wheel doors.



...
Always test fit parts, even if they are not shaped yet.
Get a feel for how the parts line up and how they must assemble.
Check the edge colouring and touch up if necessary.

Here I am noting the wheel well openings.
In the first section of fuselage, I have not cut out the wheel well doors yet.
It would make it more difficult to assemble that section.

I have cut out the opening in the second section, because the part has a longer connecting seam.
I will trim out the rest of the wheel well opening after the fuselage is assembled.

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Old 11-12-2015, 01:11 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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An outstanding tutorial, valuable for almost any paper model one might build.

Many thanks for this, Dave.

Don
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:45 PM
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just marking this for when model is released.
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:51 PM
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The nosecone" on the CL-41 is actually a glass nose housing a headlight among other things.
I'm no expert on Tutor's, so I don't know exactly what is in there...
but I do know that earlier Tutors had a shorter domed nose bubble
whereas later Tutors had an elongated dome protecting an antenna of some sort.

Nobi provided me with two patterns for the early and late style noses.
I applied a photo realistic effect...trying to make it look like glass.

On this earlier model, I will be installing the round domed nose but in the photo below
you can see the other pattern, and the late style nose on the Snowbird jet.



...
Heres a side view of the later version of the glass nose.
See how it elongates at the bottom.

The two styles build in exactly the same manner.
It helps to precurve the parts as much as possible before gluing.



...
Precurving parts is extremely important.
Everything will glue together a lot easier if it already wants to hold the correct shape.

I use dowels of various sizes, as well as pencils, markers, paintbrushes, etc to roll the fuselage sections.
I use the formers as reference to get the correct shapes.
It takes a while, and you will have to do it more than once, since the parts will relax and lose the shape before you assemble.

I have prepared a few parts here for gluing.
I have folded the wheel well box, folded the double lamination parts, and prepared the joiner strips.



...
Use the straight joiners to connect each cylinder section of the fuselage.
Make sure you use a straight edge on all straight cuts like the ends of these parts.
This will give you the best possible connection at this seam.
Focus on a nice tight seam with no gap.

I have also glued the nose cone part, the wheel well box, and the flat laminated parts.
Plenty of stuff to glue...but let it all set up a good long time before fitting parts together.
I often wait at least one full day.

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Old 11-12-2015, 06:29 PM
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MacSongLi MacSongLi is offline
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I always love your detailed build tutorials Dave.

Great Job!
Gary
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:40 PM
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Back to that nose cone again...

like I do with a lot of parts, I try to smooth out seams and add more curve to domes and rounded parts.
I do this with a round ended tool like the knife handle you can see in the following photo.
I also use the rounded end of metal Knife handle and I have various wooden dowels that I have sanded round on the ends.

Place the part face down on the cutting mat, and apply pressure to the inside of the seams.
Keep the part moving as you work the seams from the backside.
You can smooth out joints, and you can stretch out more curve from the paper creating smoother domes and such.



...
Now that all the fuselage sections are assembled as tubes, you can insert and glue in place, the tabbed joiner strips.
You need to do this after the sections are curved and glued as tubes,
because the inside diameter will decrease, and the joiner strips have a tighter radius.

Now I am all ready to assemble the front half of the fuselage.



...
I start at the nose and connect the first two sections.
Unless its a real small part, I'll glue only part way around and fit to get a tight seam and connection.
When its completely secure, I glue more until I work my way all the way around the part.
The goal is to get a tight connection with little or no gaps.
You can't always do that if you try to glue all the way around (all at once).

You can also see from this photo, the way I have cut out only part of the wheel well opening.
After the glue sets up on this connection, I can cut out the rest using a small fine pair of scissors.



...
I install the first fuselage former by test fitting it, adjusting the shape and size as needed (sanding)
and then pushing it in from the rear.
Once I have established its position and planned out the procedure, I will coat the inside of the nose section
with glue and push the former into place. Obviously aligning the vertical axis is very important with all formers.



...
While I am waiting for glue to dry...which I do a lot...I will go and work on another area of the model
as long as it doesn't disrupt my order or cause any confusion.

In this case, I assembled one of the separate assemblies: the upper rear canopy extension that fits on top of the fuselage.

Three parts connect together with tabbed strips to form the tapered body part.
It needs to be preshaped before attaching the tabbed strips and then connecting the parts.
Use the front former part as reference for the shape.

The side attachment strips are optional.
I did not need them on the Snowbird build.
But they are included for those who have difficulty with edge gluing of parts.

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  #7  
Old 11-13-2015, 06:39 AM
Big Mac Big Mac is offline
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Dave,
Thanks for the detailed instuctions! I have learned quite a bit already and will look forward to following the rest of the build.

Don
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  #8  
Old 11-13-2015, 09:03 AM
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To finish off that cockpit extension part, you need to attach the front former.
It will sit on top of the fuselage, thats why it has been separated from the lower part of the former.

Glue the former in place very close to the edge of the assembly.
Its best to leave just enough for another layer of card.
(There is another flat cockpit part that attaches to the face of this former.)

I start by gluing the top center area...only a few millimetres.
Line up the top center references.
And then work my way down each side, gluing small sections at a time.
Take your time and allow glue to dry until you get to the ends.
If you have lined it up properly, there will be about a 1mm overhang on each side.



...
Back to the Nose again!

Lets fit the wheel well box.
Its only very slightly oversize to the opening,
so some care must be taken to position it right.
Prefold the mounting tabs, make sure they are tightly folded over and test fit the part.
Once you have a good understanding of how and where it fits and how to hold it in place,
go ahead and glue it in.



...
Once I am sure the wheel well box is secure and will not separate away from the fuselage part, I slip in the second former.
My approach to fuselage formers is a snug fit, but not so tight as to cause bulging or "ribbing" in the fuselage.
With this former you need to cut out the notch until it is snug over the wheel box, but not tight fitting.
In fact, the sides can be loose, as long as the top of the notch presses against the wheel box.

The overall former fit in the fuselage should be snug, but not tight...and it has to fit within the tabbed joiner strip.
Doesn't have to be perfectly on the fuselage seam, but close to it.



...
Heres the finished nose sections with the domed "glass" part attached (edge glued to the front former).

You can also see the opening is trimmed as neceesary...I cut out the the last parts before installing the wheel box
but you can probably do it after? (But its probably easier if you do it before)

In the background is the completed cockpit upper extension.
After it has setup for a day or two, I very carefully trim the edges, across each seam, and smooth out any uneveness.

You can also see the nose assembly...we'll get to that later.

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Old 11-13-2015, 09:50 AM
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palindrome palindrome is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdave View Post
Back to that nose cone again...
That bit about the nose cone wound up in the other thread: CT-114 Tutor (CL-41) Canadair - Snowbirds RCAF
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:00 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palindrome View Post
That bit about the nose cone wound up in the other thread: CT-114 Tutor (CL-41) Canadair - Snowbirds RCAF
Well that screws up the entire thread then doesn't it.
Unless a mod can remove Post #18 from that thread

and insert it at the end of Post #1 in this thread?

If not, I will need to start this thread again.
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