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  #41  
Old 09-13-2016, 12:59 PM
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Amccombs3 Amccombs3 is offline
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I had a little free time this afternoon after a dentist appointment, so I have the canopy finished. All I could think of while working on it was Johnny's tiny version. This one was quite fiddly enough. But I think mine came out all right, or else I am lowering my standards to a more realistic level.
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  #42  
Old 09-13-2016, 02:45 PM
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ViperPilot ViperPilot is offline
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Skirts and Canopy are done...





I changed over to a different Scoring tool from the one I was previously using in order to get a smaller Score line, but I think I overdid it.
Looks like it's back to the stylus...

This was also my 1st time using (and mixing) Watercolor paints, and I tried to match the closest I could. the over scoring issue made things worse.

I'm probably going to redo the Canopy; it looks pretty awful..., doesn't it?

Sorry about the Photos; the photo sharing site I use doesn't take kindly to Rotating Views!

Alan
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  #43  
Old 09-13-2016, 03:10 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Viper...your canopy looks a bit rough, yes.
But this is not a contest.
Sometimes you try it once...and then you try it six more times.
You stop when you are satisified with your own effort.

Once again, edge colouring...I have come to grips with "less is more".
Use less colour. Lighter shades of the correct colour, or even just grays.
Lighter tonal values for sure.
And, lighter application.

Scoring Tool...mine is fairly wide (a knife blade thickness).
And sometimes i feel like its too wide, especially on small parts like this.
But, in the end, it always seems to work as needed,
so I have no desire to try anything thinner.

Anne...your canopy looks alright to me...as far as i can see in that backlit image.

And...lowering ones standards is never a bad thing! lol
I've learned to live by that rule.

...
Re, that little indent in the bottom edge of the Canopy sides...
indicated by the small arrows (on the model sheet)...
the Canopy needs to widen at the bottom.

You pull the sides outwards a bit, to make the bottom wider, when gluing it to the deck of the Body.
The little indents are the point where the Canopy transitions into that wider part.

I'm not sure it was really necessary, but it appeared during the design phase, so I left it.
I noticed, on my own build, that it can leave a slight gap under the canopy part, if you don't spread the bottom wide enough.
(Just look at my photo above)
So, lets try to remember this when we attach the Canopy to the Body.
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  #44  
Old 09-13-2016, 03:28 PM
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ViperPilot ViperPilot is offline
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Many thanks for the suggestions, Dave! Each cut, score, paint mix and Fold is a learning experience; practice makes 'better'!

Alan
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  #45  
Old 09-13-2016, 04:12 PM
Psychohillbilly Psychohillbilly is offline
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Trying to keep up.
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  #46  
Old 09-13-2016, 05:49 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Lets prepare the final Part that is attached to the main Body...
the rear vertical Fin (Stabilizer).

This part is different in that it has a central mountain fold and two valley folds.
The mounting (glue) tabs must be folded outwards (valley fold).

So, score all fold lines in preparation.



...
After assembling the Tail Fin, we will need to prepare the main Body to receive it.

This should be done sometime before you cut out the main Body part.
A slot has to be cut in the rear of the body, to receive the Fin from underneath.

But before we can do that, we have to finish the tail Fin.



...

...cut out the Tail Fin part using a straight edge.
Its important that you cut it accurately.



...
Edge colour the part...and then fold into the correct shape.



...
Its important that the trailing edges line up neatly.
How everything lines up will be controlled by how accurately you cut out the part
and how accurately you scored and folded the part.




...
Glue the two sides flat, lining up the trailing edges.
If there is a slight misalignment of the trailing edges, you may be forced to trim with a straight edge.

Once the glue is dry, you can fold the mounting tabs outwards at right angles.
Crease the fold to make it as sharp as possible.

Touch up your edge colouring if necessary.



...
The Tail Fin slot must be cut wide enough to allow the Fin to fit freely,
but not so wide as to allow any extra space.
The slot is roughly .5mm wide...about the thickness of two layers of 65lb cardstock.

Use a metal straight edge to cut the sides of the slotted opening.
Cut the narrow ends of the slot using the pointed end of a sharp Hobby Knife.



...

You can check the slot with the assembled Fin, to make sure it fits.
Insert the Fin from the back side of the model sheet.

If its too tight, you can cut open the slot a little more by carefully using a knife and straight edge.
Check the fit again...make sure it fits snugly, but not too tight (or too loose).
It is best to make sure the Tail Fin fits properly before you remove the main Body Part from the model sheet.



...
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  #47  
Old 09-13-2016, 06:20 PM
Psychohillbilly Psychohillbilly is offline
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Tail fin done and slot cut.
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  #48  
Old 09-13-2016, 07:11 PM
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Amccombs3 Amccombs3 is offline
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Sorry about the bad photo -- I threw away another one for that post that was even worse. I am not a skilled photographer. However, I got the tail fin done tonight, and O happy day -- it folded neatly in half with the edge matching, and it fits nicely in the body slot on the first try. I got a very inconspicuous blemish on one side of the fin (from a bit of moisture), and decided to let it stay there.
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KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Bluebird Proteus CN7-gedc0876.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Bluebird Proteus CN7-gedc0877.jpg  
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  #49  
Old 09-13-2016, 07:24 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Canopy and Tail Fin Up

One us has completed the canopy and tail fin has been completed.

Anne -Looks like you are on course, on time, and on the ball!

Don
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KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Bluebird Proteus CN7-bluebird_build03.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Bluebird Proteus CN7-bluebird_build04.jpg  
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  #50  
Old 09-14-2016, 05:49 AM
Ronagon Ronagon is offline
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After a hard night, I recovered the lost time.
Re-printed, re-sealed, re-scored and re-build...
Changed the paper - 120 g - and the colour edge - I used Faber-Castell pencil rather than marker.
Now the results aproach my desire.
Tonight, go to next step.
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