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  #1  
Old 09-24-2016, 04:55 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler



This build tutorial will reference the newly updated Tumbler model (as of Sept.2016).
If you have an older version of the Tumbler model, you can download the newly modified model
or build the old one...this tutorial will still apply*.

* Changes to the model are: improved artwork and details, notes on assembly (on the model sheet),
and the overall model is enlarged 110% to be in more in scale with the other Batmobile models.


There is also an Assembly Diagram that you can download.
koolwheelz BATTUMBLER assembly

As with most of the KoolWheelz models, some of the tools you will need (recommended):
Fine/small pointed Scissors
Hobby or Craft Knife (Scalpel style)
Scoring Tool
Glue
Tweezers for handling, clamping, and folding.
Metal Straight Edge for scoring and cutting.


Okay...lets go...updated Tumbler sheet printed and clearcoated.

As I mentioned already, I overdid it on the clearcoat.
Saturated the paper quite a bit (rushing).
It resulted in the softening of Ink...and loss of some detail and colour.

Which is unfortunate, since one of the things I did to this updated Tumbler,
is sharpen up some of the artwork!



...
So, your first step is to score all the fold lines.
Most are mountain folds...but the outside front body extensions must be folded valley style.
The sheet is marked...everything that needs to be scored...everything except for the Glue tabs.
I thought maybe that was obvious?

For those taking part here, you get to see a diagram of all the fold lines on the Body parts.



...
Be aware of the cuts that must be made in the Body parts...these are not score/folds.
There are two cuts at the front of the body.

And there are also two cuts at the rear of the floor pan (shown in the previous image).



...
Lets start by cutting out the Floor pan.
Use a straight edge (metal) for cutting, wherever possible.

If its not a curve, then it should be straight!
Always try to make your straight cuts as straight as possible by using a straight edge!




...
Don't forget to edge colour your parts.
I use gray to black art markers for all my edge colouring on this model.

Note those insert cuts at the rear of the floor pan.



...
Now cut out the upper Body parts.
Edge colour.
Study the fold lines and connection of the parts
...its always a good idea to familiarize yourself before you start folding and gluing.



...
Preshape the Body parts...making all the necesary folds.
Look at the photos of the completed model (on the model sheet) for reference.
Once again, study the assembly before you start gluing.

Try not to fold the (center) extended part at the front of the body.



...
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2016, 06:07 PM
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Miles Linnabery Miles Linnabery is offline
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Dear AirDave:
Just got a new printer an Epson XP-330 all in one $44.00 from Walmart see the picture of the first print did I jump the gun in coloring the back of the page photos of that process also appended. I think that I will like the printer. I think the Black magic marker might have been to strong a choice for the back coloring job. We shall see about the bleed through.
Attached Thumbnails
KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tumbler-print.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tumbler-print-closeup.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-light-table.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-back-page.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-color-back-page.jpg  

KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-color-done.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-color-ooups.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2016, 07:23 PM
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Amccombs3 Amccombs3 is offline
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And we're off and running. I've decided to experiment a little with this model and try to keep my perfectionist tendencies in check! One thing I wanted to do was try printing on different papers, in an attempt to bring out the rather subtle differences between the various grays and black on this model. My first picture shows the results I got on (left to right) 67 lb. cover stock, ordinary printer paper, gloss photo paper, and some paper that is labeled "70 lb. acid free Drawing Pad" by Pro Art (I have no idea where I got it). I think I might have gotten the latter paper, which is softer and less stiff than cover stock, to try on some of Bruno's micromodels. Also, I couldn't avoid getting some glare on that photo paper. Focusing on the darker triangle on the Tumbler's right door, I felt that the cover stock didn't have enough contrast. The photo paper had a gorgeous deep, rich black -- everywhere, with no contrast at all between black and dark gray. Plus it came out a bit stripey from the passes of the printer head. The printer paper looked pretty good, but is obviously too light for model building. So I'm building with the drawing pad paper, which had the best combination of color and texture. We'll see how it goes.

So far the only mistake I'm aware of is that I scored right across the front, including scoring across the part that isn't supposed to get folded. Oops. I'll be interested to follow along as this assembly gets glued in a later lesson, as the way these oddly-shaped parts fit together isn't immediately obvious. Should be a fun little model.
Attached Thumbnails
KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-gedc0889.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-gedc0890.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2016, 03:29 AM
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gotham gotham is offline
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Miles - I also used a marker pen to colour the wings when I built the original Tumbler a few years back, and the ink cockled the parts ! I'll use watercolour pencils for this one.
Dave - will be interesting to compare the new revised model, I did find the original challenging in places, but it was the Tumbler so I wasn't going to not build it.
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  #5  
Old 09-25-2016, 08:42 AM
Ronagon Ronagon is offline
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All right (for while...)
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KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-dsc01070.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2016, 08:49 AM
Psychohillbilly Psychohillbilly is offline
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Build is started! Now to show off some toys. I use my light box so I could see through the model sheet and used a marker to color the underside of the wings. Then I scored the sheet with a empty mechanical pencil. I used my airbrush and liquitex varnish to seal the paper. All cut out, edges colored and folded. Ready for the next step.
Attached Thumbnails
KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tum-1.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-rum-2.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tum-3.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tum-4.jpg   KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-tum-5.jpg  

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  #7  
Old 09-25-2016, 09:16 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Nice work everyone!
I am really impressed.

I won't make you wait...it looks like you all got through the prep stages with no problems.
So lets continue.
I'll check in again (in about 8 hours) and post more if you are caught up.

...
Next...

Start by attaching the side Body panels to the center body section.
Line up the top (roof) glue tab and line up the rear edges of the two parts.
The forward pillar tab should locate at the same time.
Glue the pillar after the roof tab is secure.

Try not to fold the front extension (of the side panel).

Repeat the process to attach the second body side panel.

Its important to allow sufficient time for glue to dry and connections to become completely secure.
This can be important when assembling a part that has multiple connections and different angles.
You need to twist, pull and bend parts to make all your connections
...so its important that previous connections are strong and secure.
Be patient, and wait for your parts to dry!



...
The rear Engine housing should be folded like this (see image below).
Fold the Exhaust nozzle panel down, against the glue tabs and glue in place.
We will swing this assembly downwards after the floor pan is attached.
For now, leave it up.



...
By pushing the front panels of the central body part downwards, the side forward extensions should line up.
This creates a two layer, double sided extension to the side body panels.
These are also the forward supporting arms for the front wheels.

Apply a thin even coat of glue and join the the layers...making sure the edges line up cleanly.
Clamp until properly secure.



...
Once those side forward extensions are glued and secure, the Floor pan can be attached.
Starting with one of the long sides.
Apply glue to the side panel and locate the glue tab of the floor pan...make sure its flush.
Once it is secure, attach the front panel to the floor pan (also flush).



...
Repeat for the opposite side and the front panel attachments.
Its a good idea to clamp wherever possible...the side tabs are exposed from the rear,
so its easy to get a clamping tweezer in there.
A little bit of pressure speeds up the gluing time and makes a stronger bond.



...
You can fold the rear end parts outwards...giving you more room to work.
This allows you to reach inside to deal with the forward connections.

Note the split rear sections (into three parts).



...
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  #8  
Old 09-25-2016, 09:17 AM
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airdave airdave is offline
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Continuing...

Connect the rear wall of the Body first...starting on either side.
Fold the panel upwards, inserting the glue tabs inside the body...glue flush.



...
Repeat for the opposite side...pushing the panel upwards and into the body.
I've added some detail lines to the following photo, to help make the shapes more obvious.

Next, fold down the center Engine housing until it reaches the Body.
It does not need to be glued...just has to come into contact with the back wall of the body.



...
Fold up the lower floor pan extension towards the Engine Housing,
and insert its glue tab into the assembly.
Glue the side tabs at the same time, sealing up the Engine Housing part.
This also completes the rear of the Body.



...
Close up the front (center) Body extension in the same manner.
Hopefully you did not score across the upper strip of this extension?
Try not to bend the upper strip, and attach it to the lower (floor pan) assembly.



...
This completes the main body.
Once all the gluing is dry, you can burnish the edges and the seams with a smooth, round tool.
I often use the edges of my tweezers.
Don't round things off too much...but it can help give you tighter looking seams and connections.
Edge colour again (the parts you just assembled), just to hide any seams or paper edges that may still be showing.



...
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2016, 11:40 AM
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Miles Linnabery Miles Linnabery is offline
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Dear AirDave:
Here I thought I was caught up, I am glad to find out where to start gluing. I will use this as a soap box for a little bit, In my house the computer is in the back room on one wall and my model work bench is in the same room on the other wall, as paper models become more computer orientated this is not the best setup, I am finding my self walking over to the computer screen then back to the work bench, Back and forth, Back and forth etc. would be nice to have a screen at the workbench or at least a larger computer tablet if I could afford it. If you are a new modeler and just setting up try to work your computer and work station together. I am stuck where the computer cable comes out in the room.
Another Idea about this model, I just found a plastic covering on a pack of Computer paper that has areas of translucent blue color that is almost a match for Dave's tumbler windows, I will cut out the windows and glue the plastic to the inner-surface of the models I will do some pictures of the process.
Thanks to Dave and the forum,
Miles
Just noticed that I bent a flap the wrong way, pictures with cell phone not to bad
Attached Thumbnails
KoolWheelz Tutorial Build - Batman Tumbler-step-1.jpg  

Last edited by Miles Linnabery; 09-25-2016 at 11:43 AM. Reason: Add a line
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  #10  
Old 09-25-2016, 12:44 PM
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airdave airdave is offline
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HAHA My computer is in an entirely different room to where I do my model work.

I was going to do the same thing (with the windows) Miles!
But for the purposes of this tutorial, I had to build the model "stock".

I might go back and build another just for fun...with windows.
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