#11
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Watching with great interest.
Don |
#12
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Gimme gimme gimme! Should look great Dr Laser!
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I Make Stuff |
#13
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I am looking forward to this, too. Great model.
Jeff |
#14
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Cool! Looking forward to seeing a build on this model as well!
Cheers! Jim |
#15
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Thank you all for your confidence. I hope to meet your expectations.
I start with planning the rigging and determining each line's length of tippet needed. (For more detail on my rigging method, see Rigging Aircraft with Tippet ). I need two 16-inch lengths for the wing landing and flying wires, and two 8-inch wires for the other wing to fuselage rigging. Making the lengths too long is okay - too short is bad. The top wing is actually three pieces, but I merged them into one part in the computer. I perfer one piece wings when possible - easier, greater precision, and less joint lines. The wing includes a reinforcing strip. After punching four holes for the rigging, I then cut out the wing and prep it (score, fold and round the top). Next insert the rigging (definitely need magnification and fine tweezers) and tape it all secure. Now I just forgot, I need to cut the slots for the struts in the wing before I glue it up. Next time.
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John peace thru light |
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#16
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Superb beginning, John. Looks like this one might be on display at Paper Modelers at Army Heritage Days next month.
Don |
#17
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I can't wait to see this one come together. I will never understand how painting wings to mimic a bowl of Easter jelly beans was a good camo strategy, but I guess breaking up the profile is more important than the colors used. Whatever the reason, it sure makes for an attractive and colorful model!
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#18
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Okay, in my haste to start I made a big mistake (nothing new to me). I routed the rigging wire right over where I want to slice an opening for the struts. If I did that, I'd cut the wires and the rigging would fail. So I had to strip off the tape, relocate the wiring, and retape it. This figure shown the rework. Notice the slot is exactly where the rigging was.
So now I can close up the wings. The center section is last so I can add internal splices, as shown below. When I glued the wings together, I purposely misaligned the the top and bottom halves, see the picture below. I allowed the top wing to slide over the edge of the bottom wing, more near the wingtip in a linear misalignment from root to tip. Now why would I do that? The reason is to thin out the wing cord uniformly to the wingtip. It is a small variation, but allows the wingtip to be glued up much easier without any distorsion. I'll just trim up the wing and it will never be noticed.
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John peace thru light |
#19
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Above when I said I misalign to reduce the chord, I really meant that I reduce the wing thickness to the wing tip. A thinned wing tip is easier to glue together without distorsion.
Now it is a simple process to finish the aerodynamic surfaces. More to come.
__________________
John peace thru light |
#20
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Coming along very nicely, John. Wish I understood more about rigging so I could do it the right way.
Looking forward to more. Joe
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Currently building Heinkel Models/Ron Miller Authentic Nautilus. |
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