Looking for someone who familiar with pepakura designer.

[MH631]

Hey everyone!
Its been a long time since my last visit to this website. I have been busy with my study and I had to forget papercraft for a while. Ok, I have one request here, I just finished a 3D sword using SketchUp. This is my first attempt using SketchUp and it took about 6 hours to be finished. But, I don' t really know how to convert it into papercraft using pepakura designer. So, I hope someone could make it for me.

This sword is based from my favourite anime, Sword Art Online 2. It supposed to have a length of ±120cm. Once again, I hope there will be someone who interested to help me. PLEASE!!

[Revell-Fan]

Hi MH,

I took the file and unfolded it. I have attached the first attempt. The positions of the flaps have to be adapted and some new ones created, so this is a WIP.

I have run into a problem which I cannot solve. If you look closely you will notice some uneven edges / zig-zag lines which do not belong there. I have no idea how to get rid of them. I am having the same problem with my Colonial Warrior helmet.

I suppose SU and Pep do not work together that well.

One way to overcome this is to use the SketchUp unfold tool and manually unfold the model in SU, then export the pieces as *.svg graphics and edit them in a vector graphic program like InkScape. That will give you a proper result.

What do you think?

[MH631]

Hi Revell-Fan,

I think its look fine for the blade section, but as you said, I have noticed some edge error on some other parts. I'm new to 3d modelling, so will you mind telling me where is the unfolding tools in SU6 or its done by a trick?

BTW, I highly appreciated your help, thanks! Will there be any chances for a corrected version?

[Revell-Fan]

You are welcome!

I use SU6 to export the file to *.kmz(4) file which can be read by Pep and SU8 for modeling. I'm sorry I made a mistake, I did not mean the "SU unfold tool" but "Flattery". It is a plugin which you may get here:

Flattery Papercraft Tools

Whenever possible I use the manual unfold because it gives you ultimate control of the result. There are many ways to export the result; you may work with screenshots or export the flat pattern as *.svg file which can be edited in a vector program. I use this when I have simple patterns without bitmap textures. (You may also add a fancy texture to the model after unfolding by exporting the vector graphic as a bitmap graphic and edit it in a bitmap graphic program such as Gimp.)

Pepakura unfold is required when you use bitmap textures which are supposed to be preserved.

I'll be preparing a vector file for you with a proper unfold but I have some other projects running at the moment which cut my spare time. So give me a few days, please.

[MH631]

Revell-Fan, thanks for pointing out that great plug-in. It may useful for my future project.

I tried to make a new pdo file based on yours. I think you should directly unfold after you load your kmz(4) and then edit the 2d pattern instead of edit the 3d model (divide or cut edge) then unfold. It works for me.

Have a look.
P/S - I scaled it down to 100cm long. I think it looks better this way.

[Revell-Fan]

Ohhh, this does indeed look much better! Thank you for the tip, I'll try it on my helmet.

Now one of the things I pay attention after unfolding is a logical positioning of the flaps. I prefer putting the flaps to one and the same side of a part. If you have parts of different widths they should be attached to the thinner part. If you attach the flaps to the wider part you might have trouble glueing the thinner part to it, unless you cut the flap thinner. In addition, you can hold the parts easier during assembly. (I hope you understand what I mean; if not, please tell me and I will upload some pics ).

Alternating flap positions are possible, too, but I find them a bit too complicated, especially when the parts are small and / or thin. They are of some advantage because they help align the parts. Johan Scherft is a master when it comes to that. His kits always have alternating flap positions.