Li'udoyed Land Dreadnought

[Maxby]

The first of my Steampunk armour projects will be the "Li'udoyed" Land Drednought. I created the drawings back in 1998 for a role-playing adventure. The design is recognizable as a Steampunk adaptation of Steve Jackson's "Ogre mk V". Li'udoyed is Russian for Ogre.

I sent the drawings to Winchell Chung, the creator of the original design, and he was moved enough to render the action drawing. I like it but I hardly think a Victorian era landship could raise clouds of dust with an estimated speed of 6 mph. http://www.projectrho.com/steamogre.jpg

I used Autosketch to create the drawings and will be using the same program to design the card model pieces.

For the purposes of using the model in miniature wargames I decided on a 15mm or 1/72 scale. That will make the final product 24 inches long (60 cm) by 13 inches wide (34 cm) and 8 inches high (20 cm). Another reason to choose the scale so large is so that I can get a handle on assembling the thing using big pieces that are easier to work with.

The first piece I started translating to model form was one of the main battery turrets. I wanted the gun to be articulated and the turret swivelable so there were some internal mechanical concerns. After 3 attempts I think I have a workable prototype, although I am still refining the design.



I invite your suggestions, questions and critiques.

[eatcrow2]

Looking forward to this... Nice work so far on the turret..

[Maxby]

After redesigning the turret’s inner workings and adding a gun sighting port, I turned to the design of the tread units. Due to the 1/76 scale and resulting size, I was not able to fit the basic tread unit onto a single page. A two page template was awkward but feasible. The assembly taught me much about construction techniques at this scale but most of all the necessity of an inner skeleton and support system for the bulk of is yet to come.

After looking at the result I know I need to redesign the machinegun sponsons so they project farther from the tread unit hull. I will also include a back piece to simplify assembly and placement. I have learned that by printing the rivets a constant distance from the seam I can use it for lining up my ruler for creasing.

I was wondering about the rungs on the side of the tread unit. How would one go about creating those?

My idea for the machinegun ball mount would be to buy jewelry beads that would fit the scale for the ball mount and attach the gun barrel to the hole in the bead. The bead would be articulated set in the paper face and a rear piece.

Any ideas?

[rocketmantan]

Wow, that looks insanely awesome. Can't wait to see more of this!

[Maxby]

I am currently trying to choose between foamcore and tagboard for my internal suppurt structure (skeleton).

What advaice can people give me on this matter?

I also found another drawing of the Liudoyed generated by that internet famous steampunk author/artist Cory Gross.

Enjoy

[Maxby]

I spent time tonight redesigning the machine gun sponsons. The back plate made assembly so much easier.

I made the sponson thick enough to be able to use an 8 mm bead to act as the machine gun ball joint. I flared the back plate to hold them in place and still allow them to be moved. I just used match sticks for practice. I am thinking about using wire to represent the machinegun barrel and water jacket for the final assembly.

In the photos I added some items to denote the size for your benefit.

I've had some revelations regarding the skeleton. I will post the inner design when I am finished with it.

I still need input regarding thick tag board verses foam core or corrugated.

[Uyraell]

Corrugated cardboard is simpler, and reasonably predictable to work with.
Foamcore is maleable, but may be sensitive to employment with certain adhesives.
Tag-board, I cannot speak to any experience of.

Of the three, I'd be inclined to use corrugated cardboard, either egg-crate style internal supports, or internal-former and corner gusset style. The first is less elegant in engineering terms, but easier, the second is more complex, but does leave internal volume available if internal detailing is intended, as might be the case in a larger scale.

So, to sum up, I'd be seriously looking at corrugated cardboard in egg-crate style as internal strengtheners. Suitably clad on the exterior, no-one would believe the strength the model would have for it's size. Yes, to a degree it *is* "overbuilding" but I'd regard the longevity of the model assured thereby as worth the effort.

I hope the input here helps in your deliberations, Cdre Maxby.

Kind and Respectful Regards, Uyraell.

[Maxby]

For your consideration,

I think I have worked out the internal structural plan I have been grinding on for a few days.

The skeleton not only needs to give the model integrity but provide critical structural points to suspend, depend or mount the card stock skin.

Skeleton-1:
The base structure will include the blocks located in the tread units and the yokes spanning the front and back pair of tread units. I am moved by Uyraell’s suggestion for using corrugated stock. The yoke will have to span 15 inches (38cm) and have the weight of the majority of the model bearing on the center. I have some very thin dowels that I could insert within the space created by the corrugation between the paper sheets that should be able to bear a great deal of weight. The spacer I am using is circular due to a circle’s high strength and low weight, so don’t think the circles are for articulation.

Skeleton-2:
I am lucky that the design allows that this piece will span the entire top down silhouette of the landship. The undercarriage will be suspended underneath and all of the superstructure can be mounted thereto. Risers for the front turret decks will also use circular support.

Skeleton-3:
A pair of vertical will run from the turret decks to the rear and give the model a second dimention of structural stability. I was tempted to join the two turret decks but sculpting the front bridge (as in bridge of the nose) will require this space to be open.

Skeleton-4:
The angled glacis and upper deck pieces should not only provide a great deal of strength but should also just need and outer skin of card to complete. Most of the remaining hull pieces should be attached to one or more structural anchor/s. I realize that the flying bridge deck is not included but the cardstock should be sufficient to support this small deck.

I will also have to put holes into the angled pieces for the secondary batteries (6 pound cannons)but I have not yet come up with a method of making these barbette mounts articulate. So if you have any design ideas regarding gun mounts, I* am eager for your input.

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by Maxby

I am currently trying to choose between foamcore and tagboard for my internal suppurt structure (skeleton).

What advaice can people give me on this matter?

I also found another drawing of the Liudoyed generated by that internet famous steampunk author/artist Cory Gross.

Enjoy

Foam insulation panels, either pink or blue. Dead cheap at Home Depot or lowe's. Glues up with Aleene's Tacky glue, easy to cut, dimensionally stable. I use it all the time for internal structures.

[SJPONeill]

I used corrugated cardboard from an old packing case for formers in my first paper build, the SPI BV p.170 in 1/33....apart from being slightly more difficult to cut, I didn't have any great problems with it...