#1
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3 Ton Tank
Hello All,
I'm trying to get back to designing tank models after a long absence. I'm restarting a project to do the 3 Ton Tank of 1917. Hunnicutt's Stuart Tank is my main reference. The model will be drawn to 1/16 scale. |
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#2
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Hunnicutt is about the best reference. Many images, both photos and drawings.
I look forward to seeing this model. Don |
#3
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I look forward to seeing this one, also. This was a unique little tank with some potential.
Jeff |
#4
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Here is the beginning. I decided to start with the sides. There are 2 good views, one of the outside, one of the interior.
I use Corel Draw to convert the images to lines. |
#5
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This left me with 2 drawings. Each with some different details, but that should match each other.
When the 2 drawings were overlaid, some discrepencies appeared. Those I corrected "by eye". I ended up with a "full side view" |
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#6
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With everything lined up I was able to make a copy, flip it over, and have my 2 finished "sides".
Next step will be to cut them out, correct their thickness (my paper tank model philosophy is that the sides should be to scale thickness) and put in the rivits. I have some pictures of this tank on a site I'm rebuilding. It used to be http://tanks2scale, but I'm setting up http://www.built2scale.com, where modelers can site individual sites for themselves or their models. You can find the pictures of the 3 Ton on Tank Photos | Just another built2scale Sites site |
#7
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laying out the parts of the hull that are shown in the drawings in perspective requires a few tricks.
i draw a square that fits next to a part in the side view (a line would work as well, but a square is easier to move around and keep track of) and then move the square next to the drawing of the piece and use it to establish its true width |
#8
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here is a case where i have a front view of a piece that includes the rivits, but the piece is in perspective. i draw it out, including the rivits, and then move to my drawing of the piece at its true size, and space the rivits out by moving them the right distance from the edges. the third picture is another set of rivits in its "perspective" view, overlaid on the "true size" drawing of the hull piece.
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#9
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some places, like the bottom, are not on the drawings or pictures at all. I guess that the rivits will go around the edge, where they would be needed to fasten the bottom to the internal angle irons.
In a case like this I copy a row of rivits from somewhere on the tank that the drawings or photos do show me, using the same spacing. Then I try copying from a different set of rivits. I decide to go with the smaller rivits, since the bottom is only 1/4 inch thick. Somewhere I've seen a table that shows the standard rivit sizes and spacing for different size plate... I have to see if I can find that again. |
#10
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paper "rivits"
my system for making rivits
in this case i remarked the printed rivit heads as they were rather dim 1) then i turned the paper over and put it against a light, and marked the rivit heads on the reverse 2) then i use a round headed punch and "punched" them against my cutting board, which gives a little and lets the rivit form a "head" 3) then i counter punched them with a brass tube, to create a sharp edge around each rivit |
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