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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 07:19 AM
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Nice looking skeleton Mark. Straight and sturdy, just what you need.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 07:35 AM
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I'm very pleased to see the hull of this beautiful and historic ship taking shape, Mark. It's outstanding work so far.

This has been a fascinating thread and I am glad to have the various Lexington builds available. Not only are Lex and Sara also beautiful and historic ships (and special favorites of mine), but the various techniques discussed for those models and for your Sydney are very much worth seeing and help to put your build into perspective.

Don
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 08:23 AM
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good looking hull
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 08:20 PM
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Hi guys, thanks for your continued interest.

Don, I agree the models of Lexington are terrific. I really enjoy looking at the various builds to see how the designers tackle things. The way the builders take the basic models to a completely different level is what really impresses me though. I think some of the builders on this forum would turn out wonderful ship designs if they tried their hand at some cad work.

I should have some final pictures to show of my frame this weekend. I got the missing half deck in last night which has straightened the stern up nicely although I didn't cut this deck as well as the others and it is sitting a bit proud of the formers. I will need to do some trimming.

An issue I should have thought of is the placement of hawse pipes and anything else that intersects my formers. I know some of you guys punch out the holes in the hull skin for your portholes and use plastic for the porthole "glass". Do you run into the problem of visible hull formers through the portholes on commercial kits? How do you deal with it? A redesign would fix this but I feel I am too far along to do that now.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrown View Post
Hi guys, thanks for your continued interest.


An issue I should have thought of is the placement of hawse pipes and anything else that intersects my formers. I know some of you guys punch out the holes in the hull skin for your portholes and use plastic for the porthole "glass". Do you run into the problem of visible hull formers through the portholes on commercial kits? How do you deal with it? A redesign would fix this but I feel I am too far along to do that now.
A black sharpie to colour the formers that might be visible works fine
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:20 PM
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In my case I cut part of former triangle where porthole contacts with the former but B-Manic's way would be enough and easier
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:24 PM
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On Zuikaku I've used the black sharpie, but nothing really went where I thought it would go. The cutout is better, I think.

Oh, and no, I haven't used plastic for my portholes. I just use glue that dries clear.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:26 PM
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If you really wanted to get fancy, you could follow the airplane instrument panel idea and have an 'inside' strip for the areas with the porthole windows - perhaps with little dimly-lit scenes of people and whatnot, room for a layer of plastic / acetate and then the actual hull.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dansls1 View Post
If you really wanted to get fancy, you could follow the airplane instrument panel idea and have an 'inside' strip for the areas with the porthole windows - perhaps with little dimly-lit scenes of people and whatnot, room for a layer of plastic / acetate and then the actual hull.
Hmm, that sounds like that Yamato build I think on Digital Navy with the wardroom with a big photo on the wall. That would be really cool in a kit
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:43 PM
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Bingo! That's ideal for passenger ship. I just come up with the idea to put cabins with lighting. In some cabin lovebirds are kissing! How romantic!
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