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  #11  
Old 08-28-2007, 01:11 AM
Leif Ohlsson's Avatar
Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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I was wondering all the time how did he manage those rive lines. And the answer, of course, is something Gil and others have mentioned a number of times - grandmothers cake-baking tool, made into a jeweler's (and modeler's) dream tool:



It strikes me that the technique for getting that alu finish, the tape (also mentioned by Gil & others), would be even better on card models. It would enable you to fill & sand all glue joints without risking the pattern. Then just tape them over with alu.



But a lot of work, of course. And it kind of defeats the purpose of card modelling, being able to print & paint patterns on parts BEFORE you assemble the model.

Last edited by Leif Ohlsson; 08-28-2007 at 01:17 AM. Reason: Addint thoughts & stuff
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2007, 02:48 AM
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Thinking it Through...,

Quote:
But a lot of work, of course. And it kind of defeats the purpose of card modelling, being able to print & paint patterns on parts BEFORE you assemble the model.
Or does it? If you print on aluminumized card stock is it any different than applying it over the card stock? I've been thinking about building the substrate out of 0.5-1.0 mm card stock, soak with nitrate dope, fill with gesso and sand. Applying aluminum foil over the gesso surface is the art of metal leafing the glue is called size. For this application it would be scaled up to an industrial level from that used in metal leafing.

Panel lines and rivet detail remain problematic. Models with pounce wheel applied rivet detail look essentially that. Rivet detail depends greatly on the sun, angle to the surface, it's relative reflectance and surface textures. This is the stuff that renderer's have to deal with..., and may be what is needed for an interim solution. Render the surface with raised rivet and depressed panel line detail (including overlapped seams) as a gray scale only overlay which is then printed on the aluminumized card stock which is then sized to the waiting surface. Compound surfaces would need to be shaped prior to being mounted after which the surface detail would applied in the form of a clear decal...,

Ultimately applying the gray scales to a photographic mask on the surface for chemical etching would be the end of words for this thought train...,

Of course this is only the gist of the idea and a mountain sized load of work stands in between this and seeing if it actually works...,

Interesting idea though...,

+Gil

Last edited by Gil; 08-28-2007 at 02:51 AM.
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2007, 02:35 AM
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Engine Nacelle Work

Hello All,

Seems the harder one attempts to shut out the World the more the World intrudes..., Kind of like the line from the stage production "Oliver", "Stop the World, I want to get off"...,

Finally eked out a little time to draw a few more items on the nacelle and blew a whole lot of time messing with the material and render settings so it looks pretty (I am a sucker for that part of it). Added the external exhaust manifold, hub and tire.

I've been experimenting with rivets. No surprise but when applied as a 3D entity on the surface they make reality pop completely out of the display. After that experiment it won't be any surprise if real panel lines do the same thing. It finally occurred to me that good renderer's are fully capable of capturing the real world to good effect. Capturing that "picture" and applying it to a flattened geometry is the end goal of all this "directed messing about"...,

Below is another teaser shot.

+Gil


Last edited by Gil; 08-30-2007 at 02:39 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2007, 04:02 AM
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If I might point out, the tool Leif is using has more to do with sewing than baking. It is a seamstress' seam marker, and can still be obtained in the notions section of most department stores. It's a good item for any modeler's toolkit, regardless of the medium of choice. Closely related tools with many modeling applications are seam guides (poor man's calipers) and seam rippers. The sewing section is a good place to look for handy-dandy tools with modeling applications....nearly as good as the fly-tieing section of a sporting goods store.
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2007, 12:50 PM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Credit where credit is due - Gil's the one who's been plugging various seamstress' and jeweler's tools...

Leif
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  #16  
Old 08-30-2007, 06:19 PM
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Pounce Wheels

A little detective work on the net provided the following derivation:

Pounce:
  1. A fine powder formerly used to smooth and finish writing paper and soak up ink.
  2. A fine powder, such as pulverized charcoal, dusted over a stencil to transfer a design to an underlying surface.
tr.v., pounced, pouncˇing, pouncˇes.
  1. To sprinkle, smooth, or treat with pounce.
  2. To transfer (a stenciled design) with pounce.
[French ponce, from Old French, from Vulgar Latin *pōmex, *pōmic-, from Latin pūmex, pumice.]

A sheet of paper with a pattern traced on it is sprinkled with pounce powder. The pounce wheel is then used to trace the pattern onto another surface. It pierces the paper through which a small bit of the pounce powder is transfered to the surface below. In short a precursor to carbon paper.

The wheels are widely available from a number of sources but need to be modified to apply a more rounded rivet type pattern to the surface. One issue is that the spacing is limited to just two choices. One enterprising modeler made his own from a selection of watch gears to obtain scale distances for the rivet pattern.

I've used these in experiments on aluminum tooling foil. The effect is Ok but will not pass the macro lens examination effect. These experiments were the beginning of the present garden path I happen to be on...,

A set of Pounce Wheels:

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  #17  
Old 08-31-2007, 04:46 AM
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Panel Lines

Messed a bit with Rhinos decal placement software. Came away slightly on the unimpressed side but that's most probably due to the fact that I didn't really know what I was doing more than half the time while attempting to use the tool. This is par for the course as usual...,

After messing about I found the easiest way to obtain a decent looking line was to project the panel lines onto the surface followed by the pipe tool to "cut" a channel out of the surface. This effectively separates the panel by a known distance (similar to "scribing" the surface). Once that's done the surfaces are split and the tubes are deleted leaving the separated panels. An offset surface must be performed prior to this to obtain a neutral gray-black under surface for a better render effect. In any event that's a high level rundown of the method shown below. Next comes rivets. Hopefully I'll figure out some way of automating that, otherwise it is really going to be painful..., Ciao!

+Gil

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  #18  
Old 08-31-2007, 07:28 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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You are really enjoying this, aren't you, Gil!

L.
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  #19  
Old 08-31-2007, 03:47 PM
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Some Parts, Yes...,

Hi Leif,

Yes, this is a nice project. Skinning a DC-3 to create a 2D enviroment map for use as a layer in Photoshop for repainting is the intended goal. This idea goes back to a Natural Aluminum Finish tutorial I did several years ago in which the reflectance patterns painted onto the surface were dependent on the subjects environment. Environment reflectance maps are now available in the form of High Dynamic Range Images (HDRI). Think of a ground plane combined with a hemispherically shaped dome onto which is placed a "fish eye lens" photograph of a particular place. The HDRI image is then projected onto the subject to produce the reflectance map. The 3D image so created is then used as a texture map layer for the various unrolled surfaces.

The entire process is based upon the 3D surface of the subject down to the panel and rivet detail. One complaint is that you only get one lighting setup per snapshot which is true but this can be fudged some by softening the shadows and playing with an interesting feature called Ambient Occlusion. Very desirable results can be produced through a judicial combination of these effects.

What meets the eye is not always what is seen...,

+Gil
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2007, 03:58 PM
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John Bowden John Bowden is offline
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Gil,

Like many others I eagerly await the results...................

I am glad you have started this bird back up, but, and there always is a but ain't there................ will this help jump start your C-5 design too?

john
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