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  #11  
Old 09-30-2009, 08:00 AM
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buffalowings buffalowings is offline
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I just printed it out, it looks very good and should have great performance, but one question, what glue do you use?
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  #12  
Old 09-30-2009, 08:14 AM
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also, do you have any other paper airplane links, I find them to be very cool but I can't seem to find other sites sporting these designs
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  #13  
Old 09-30-2009, 12:20 PM
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Gil Gil is offline
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There You Are!

Hi Leif,

Been wondering what you've been up to. Nicely done thread on "flyable" paper airplanes.

This would make a nice piece in the one remaining "stick and tissue" magazine. If you're interested I'll see what I can do.

It's also a good idea to seal the model (read waterproof) with several layers of acrylic spray to prevent the model from "sagging out". Absorbed moisture will quickly affect the models structure and performance.

Do you plan to use a rubber "slingshot" launcher?

Best regards,
+Gil
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  #14  
Old 09-30-2009, 12:43 PM
shawnr5 shawnr5 is offline
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Very cool. Maybe, I can build it after I'm done with my Halloween stuff.
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  #15  
Old 09-30-2009, 10:53 PM
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Art Deco Art Deco is offline
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Cool idea and wonderful work, Leif ... and very professionally presented as always!

How far do you think this model could glide if launched from my 22nd floor apartment on a calm day?
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  #16  
Old 10-01-2009, 03:49 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Re: Queries

1. Glue: I always use ordinary white glue, diluted with ca 20 percent water.

2. Other sites: My own trajectory was to explore the links in the original "Neato gliders" thread, then the links given on the Kobe Wings site (Google translated), and then other link pages following from that.

3. Water-proofing: I agree on the need for spraying the finished model. Personally, I will explore another route, namely to pre-proof the sheets by painting them booth sides with Future-type floor polish (the brand available here in Europe is called Pledge), diluted with 50 percent water. I believe this might be the same thing as (diluted) acrylic varnish. Do not try concentrated polish, brush strokes and uneven application will be too visible.

This has to be done with the paper taped to a flat surface. I use masking tape and glass plates. The paper will buckle something terrible soon after painting one surface, but drying out over 24 hours it will return to flat. Same procedure with the back side. So there is a 48 hours waiting with this procedure, but I think it is worth it. Haven't tried it on a model yet, but looking forward to doing so.

What you do not want to do is to varnish a finished flying model with anything containing water. That may be alright on an ordinary built-up model (and I have done so persistently), since the double surfaced structure & framework will keep the model straight. But on a flying model, with all those thin, one-layer surfaces, it is out of the question. Have tried it, and it is no good; it warps surfaces almost beyond salvation.

On the many blessings of floor-polish, see this site

4. Rubber sling shot: I don't think I have access to the wide-open spaces required...

5. Stick and tissues mag: I'm curious, which one is that, Gil? And yes, please, that would be ever so nice of you...

6. Distance from 22nd floor: Well, Art, that's for me to guess, and you to find out, right? My guess would be at least 600 meters with an estimated L/D factor of ca 10. The problem for you would be to achieve an absolutely straight flight. I deem the possibilities of that as close to nil. Wich isn't a disadvantage, since ordinarily you do wish your model to fly in nice wide circles, right? (Preferably to the left, if you are a right-handed thrower; the launch then will be to the right, slowly straightening up and transforming into a wide left circle without abrupt transitions). And if you feel an urge to try it, please trim out the model by ordinary flights on outdoor ground level first...

Further tips: I've found this page on model aircraft aerodynamics extremely fruitful. The C.G. calc pages, found at the bottom of it, can be saved as a handy tool, and they even include a variant for canards. There is also a pdf on Canards containing pretty much the information used for the CG calc pages, I believe. In addition, a formula for calculating fin size (of canards only, unfortunately).

Right now, I'm busy trying to apply these learning to the next version of the Quetzalcoatl. Some adjustments necessary compared to my initial guesswork...

Leif

Last edited by Leif Ohlsson; 10-01-2009 at 04:43 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2010, 10:41 AM
Leyvonne Leyvonne is offline
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Thumbs up cool

Finally a plan in english instead of japanese; thank you. Now I can under stand how to make this model. Nice job on the colors too.
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2010, 03:30 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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A number of similar gliders, with full instructions in English, can be found at the link in this thread: Canon range of high-performance all-paper gliders
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2010, 06:18 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Wonderful stuff, Leif. This all has great potential for some projects with the grandsons.

I'm not sure which magazines Gil has in mind, but this is the kind of stuff that fits the American magazine Flying Models to a T. They do a lot of free-flight articles and like descriptions of innovative techniques. The current issue has a stick and tissue free-flight rubber-powered Fairey Firefly I by a master designer-builder, Tom Arnold, that has a framework made of water-soaked reeds bent around a blue foam core. Once the model framwork is completed, it is dunked in lacquer thinner to melt the blue foam. http://www.flying-models.com/pdf/contents.pdf I describe this just to show the kind of thing that appeals to the Flying Models editorial staff and the readers. This magazine has also had several mentions of paper models, both as models in and of themselves, and also as a basis for scale flying models with the paper model printed out on tissue.

Don
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  #20  
Old 06-14-2010, 03:16 AM
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Leif Ohlsson Leif Ohlsson is offline
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Glad to see you're back from your vacation Don, and hope you and your wife had a good trip!

The suggestion about using blue foam (which I don't really know what it is, but I can guess) which is dissolved, sounds like something Gil would love to get into. I've been thinking about something like that for building spoked wheels.

But then again, there are so many good methods nowadays for doing spoked wheels, so perhaps it won't be necessary.

Anyway, good to hear from you again - your regular comments is an important stabilizing feature of this forum!

Leif

Last edited by Leif Ohlsson; 06-14-2010 at 03:28 AM.
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