M48A3 Tank Design

[John Griffin]

Excellent point about the cast metal Charlie... perhaps I already have enough of it in there. I can always turn it down if I need to. I pasted in the rest of the roadwheels and the idler for a quick screen shot (but just the outer set of the dualies). I left them out of the geometry to help my PC move faster. With all the suspension arms and the rollers, the inner wheels, and then of course the track, there will eventually be hardly any white space left in there.
I just now remembered that I still need to make all the tools,cables, hooks, handles and other junk stuck to the tank that will make it look truly in service.

It seems as if this will never end...

Here is one more pic with the outer wheels one one side represented. The weird lines on the lower forward hull are just an error due to the wrong texture getting projected on it.

[member_3]

This is really quite impressive, John. Have you actually unfolded any of those compound curves yet? This will be truly impressive at 1:16 - sounds like quite a few 2mm formers under all the plating. Keep up the good work!!!

[Clashster]

Getting exciting, John! You know, armor builders are kind of used to all those wheels... We like to torture ourselves for past misdeeds.... I like big scale too, though most of what I have in armor is 1/25. I have pestered Mike for more armor offers, so I can't wait to get this one!

[John Griffin]

Originally Posted by OldTroll

This is really quite impressive, John. Have you actually unfolded any of those compound curves yet? This will be truly impressive at 1:16 - sounds like quite a few 2mm formers under all the plating. Keep up the good work!!!

Yes, I've unfolded the turret. It will be a beast to assemble... but it does have formers in it to help get the shape right. The turret side 'petals' end up with curves that in some cases overlap when flat if the all eminate from the turret top; so- some of them end up being attached to the turret top, and some to the turret bottom. The two pieces fit together like crossed hands. The front hull is more or less segmented underneath to get the boat-like shape (no petal effects). The glacis is one curved piece and the top, flat part that joins to the turret ring.

2mm is about right for the main box structure underneath the hull, with 1mm for sub-assemblies and the turret formers, and 1mm wire thru the swingarms/internal 'rolled torsion rods'.

Any suggestions as to how to attach the sprockets and idlers? I was planning on just gluing them to a 2mm thick disc that is itself glued directly on the attachment point- no axle. The same for the wheels- a 1mm spacer disc between them and the swingarms.

[member_3]

Through-hull axles might be useful in aligning the sprockets/idlers and, if combined with the disc method, should result in a very sturdy assembly. Why heck, John, maybe you could make all the wheels and track links moveable (wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more). <<big grin>>

[CharlieC]

Originally Posted by John Griffin

I just now remembered that I still need to make all the tools,cables, hooks, handles and other junk stuck to the tank that will make it look truly in service.

It seems as if this will never end...

I think the M48 like most post-WW2 tanks didn't have lots of tools and other stuff hung all over the hull. The reasoning, I think, was that external tools are trip hazards for the crew as well as being easily lost or destroyed in action. Looking at M48 images there doesn't seem to be any external tools or cables. http://mk-armour.narod.ru/2004/No1.htm

The torsion bars and swing arms could be a problem. I notice on the WAK Tiger(P) that the support axles (modelled as about 8mm shafts) for the suspension units are taken through the hull and frames. Perhaps a similar idea could be used for the M48. It might be hard to do because of the limited width of the lower hull and that each roadwheel would have its own shaft because of the offset between the roadwheels. However you do it please make it strong - there are so many tank models with weak suspension designs which causes problems with the longevity of the model.

Regards,

Charlie

[John Griffin]

Originally Posted by OldTroll

Through-hull axles might be useful in aligning the sprockets/idlers and, if combined with the disc method, should result in a very sturdy assembly. Why heck, John, maybe you could make all the wheels and track links moveable (wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more). <<big grin>>

I could design all that in (maybe), but I think that the friction of the whole system would probably not allow it to roll freely. If it could work, a motorized rear axle and a track built on a strong band would be cool... maybe a kit-bash (is that what it's called?).
Remote control (using RC or umbelicle wire and switches) could be done, in theory...

[vietnamtanker]

John
I found out about paper models today. Served in US Army 65-73. Vietnam - M48A3, Germany - M60A1. Building paper models would be very challenging. I woould like to hear from you on your project.
vietnamtanker

[30-06]

Would be great basis for conversions to IDF M-48/M-60. Look forward to more on this thread.
Current Coversions - Maly Mod. T-55 into IDF Achzarit heavy APC, Maly Mod. Sherman into Sherman Mk Ic compsite hull, GPM Panther G into Post-WWII French Army Panther G - 503e Regiment, Maly Mod. T-54 into IDF Tiran 4, and Maly Mod. T-34/85 into Egyptian T-34/85.

[duditz72]

John this is very exciting. I just finished building your P-47 photos of which are floating around on this forum and if this tanks is any where near the quality of the P-47 I'll be the first in line to build it. I am a tank guy at heart.