#11
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hmm, good point, ill have to make some cut lines to follow the black/red paint divide, so i can seperate the body panels there, but good thought indeed.
mine will be painted, and detailed, but I understand lots of people like to stick to paper :D also, im using drinking straws to make the missile door hinges, but a wooden dowel would work just as well to stay paper based... Thanks for the input. |
#12
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At 3meters plus you might run into problems of it sagging.
I made a 9ft [2.7m] long SR71 Balckbird. If you run into sagging issues, the fix is fairly easy if you have a hollow tube that runs the length of the model inside. Just use some cardboard that interlocks to each other. It needs to be in the shape of a cross, One is vertical, the otherr horizontal. Think of the dividers in a case of wine bottles, the under waterbed interlocking supports, etc... Cool design!!! Mike |
#13
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Quote:
__________________
~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#14
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Quote:
Another good thought, it will have a double layer of 110# cardstock at each of the formers, which is every 7 inches, so it shouldnt sag toooooo much, but if it does, ill definatly try to work that suggestion in, thanks... At SCE, ya that would work too, the doors are 3 inches across, im sure I can get something like that at the local hobbytown, i was just gonna be lazy since my kids have about a thousand straws in the kitchen lol... |
#15
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Finished the hand drawn proof of concept today at work, turned out pretty nice, as i said before each segment is 7 inches long, and on the 3d model there are approx 22 of them :D. This is going to be a big beautiful girl...
And an update on the 3d model as well, working on designing the prop right now, its a pretty complex shape and there are no good references, so Im basing it off of 1 of the ones shown in Crimson Tide, from late in the film when the ship loses propulsion. that one is a right hand pitch, 7 bladed prop, earlier in the film when she dives, its a left hand pitch with a totally different shape. |
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#16
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Another update for you, mostly done now... Have some bits to redo still, there is a cut into the botttom edge of the missile area that runs the entire length of that area that I didnt know about until after modeling it all so need to go back and add that, and theres something wrong in the propeller pic if anyone can tell what it is Done for tonight, tomorrow i might get some more done...
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#17
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Hi Ted,
Worth considering: Motors - 6 volt and 12 volt electric car windscreen wiper motors from a car wrecker. You can usually buy them cheap because they are rarely what anyone wants - just strip the junk parts off...they provide great torque. Motorcycle batteries for power. The sealed kind. They come in various sizes (new) and are a much more convenient alternative to rechargeable AA, C & D batteries, and you can recharge motorcycle batteries with a card battery charger, easy enough. If you wire several in series (I forget how to do that) then you can have a big bank of power at 6 volts or 12 volts to rely on when you go "a sailing". You can use the gearing in an electric can opener to slow down the speed of a car windscreen wiper motor and to provide torque, its just a matter of making the connection between the two, via a gear, which might prove a bit challenging. BigBenn |
#18
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#19
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Hi,
I notice that Modelik have a scale card model of USS Ohio - rather than collect plans or work from photo's, have you thought of buying the Polish card kit instead? Bigbenn |
#20
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Quote:
Hmm, didnt know they had one, might have to look into that and just scale it up, depends on the complexity of it.. as far as my paper one, im mostly done with it already so its good to go, im still trying to decide if it would be better to build a lightweight skinned metal frame, or use molded fiberglass for the hull of the rc model. metal would be heavier, but fiberglass seems messier and less precise for internals and connecting the 3 sections and such. |
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