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  #21  
Old 03-14-2015, 08:29 AM
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KWSTAS KWSTAS is offline
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I believe that it's easier to do it with paper than with styrene.
You have to work just like you would with real wood planks:
Stain the planks - here the paper - with heavily diluted acrylic
paint of black, brown, dark green etc , and mixes of them - the
more the better - and slice it to create the planks. The random
position with each other will give you that variety of weathered
wood. Pin washes, and filters on some spots will do the rest.
Check the post #5 at the 1st page about the random staining.
Give it a try, I 'm testing new techniques all the time.
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2015, 10:45 AM
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Pgtaylorart Pgtaylorart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWSTAS View Post
I believe that it's easier to do it with paper than with styrene.
You have to work just like you would with real wood planks:
Stain the planks - here the paper - with heavily diluted acrylic
paint of black, brown, dark green etc , and mixes of them - the
more the better - and slice it to create the planks. The random
position with each other will give you that variety of weathered
wood. Pin washes, and filters on some spots will do the rest.
Check the post #5 at the 1st page about the random staining.
Give it a try, I 'm testing new techniques all the time.
I completely agree. Paper can look much more realistic than painted styrene. Your "wood" board on board weathered siding looks amazing. Great technique. I like how you paint random tones of the wood colors on the paper then slice and mix them up. Very effective.
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  #23  
Old 03-14-2015, 12:33 PM
kcorbin kcorbin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWSTAS View Post
I 'm working lately on some scratchbuild Viking houses from 9th
to 10th century period.
......
......
Enough chit-chat, time for some pict. Mind that they are half the way
and it's a W.I.P. As usual my photo ability is bellow average and macro
is a killer for the small scales. As always c. & c. are more than welcome.
With the higher resolution digital cameras using the macro feature causes lots of issues when photographing scale model miniatures. It messes up the depth of field focus and also enlarges and emphasizes any tiny flaws that would not normally be noticeable when viewing the pieces in a natural in person viewing. Macro for photographing a bee drinking nectar from a flower...good. Macro for general photography of small scale models...bad.

So here is what I do, I leave the camera on the high definition setting that is adjusted for the lighting conditions you are shooting in. Then I step back away from the model until the image is in focus. Afterwards I use a photo editing program to crop out anything beyond the area I want to see in the photo. Then resize the high def image to a lower resolution so that it can be posted in the forum. It is a little more work but you will get great photos with good depth of field and no over exaggerated details.
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  #24  
Old 03-14-2015, 12:58 PM
kcorbin kcorbin is offline
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You can impress fine wood grain pattern into thin wood, paper or styrene with a wire brush. The trick is to lay the bristles almost parallel to the paper surface at just a slight angle. That way it does not tear the paper, instead it leaves track marks from dragging the wires at a low angle. But also another factor for making faux wood grain marks on wood and paper is dragging with the grain rather than across the grain. You will need to experiment with the amount of pressure and the size of the wire until you achieve something you like.

Stir sticks tend to be made from fairly hard wood so they don't achieve embossed grain as easily as basswood or cedar will. For timber framing in scale I always head for the tight grain red cedar. The image below shows cedar textured and modeled for the wall timbers at 1:12 scale but it also works for smaller scales if you get a hold of the really fine grain pieces. I find the best tight grain, old growth cedar, at Home Depot being sold as cedar railing spindles. You can saw one of those 1-1/4" square by 3 foot long pieces into a good sized stack of miniature lumber for under $2.00.
The floor boards in this image were made from thin, old growth Sitka spruce from Alaska. That is not something you can find at the lumber yard. I get it as offcuts from a sawmill that specializes in wood for luthiers. That other object on the floor is a soap stone sink I carved to be used in this project. I wanted a natural stone edge on the front of it.
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  #25  
Old 03-14-2015, 01:16 PM
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KWSTAS KWSTAS is offline
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Very fine results but i 'm afraid I can't use this way
for a scale that small. I feel that they will be overdone
and grotesque. I usually make grain - mainly on styrene
- with a heavy grit sandpaper, dragged across the
surface of the "plank".
I 'll try your photo technique with my cheapo pocket camera.
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  #26  
Old 03-14-2015, 08:59 PM
kcorbin kcorbin is offline
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I would certainly hope that I would never suggest techniques that create the appearance of being overdone and grotesque. That being said the results are dependent on the skill of the modeler which I have no control over. My thumb is shown in the photo for a scale reference as to how finely detailed the 3D wood grain can be achieved on a small scale card model. The paper is coated, the underlying core paper is darker than the surface coating. You scratch through the coating to reveal the look of old, aged timber. I dragged my knife tip to scratch through the surface on this sample. The faux wood on this project is coated brown card overlayed onto a structure of ivory colored card. You can see that at the doorway where I had not yet colored the edge of the ivory paper to match the brown of the wood. Forgive the glitter, this was going to be used in a Tudor Christmas Village display of paper models at a miniature show, it is an in progress image. The building is my own design and it is available as a pre-cut kit.

Last edited by kcorbin; 03-14-2015 at 09:20 PM.
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  #27  
Old 03-15-2015, 04:16 AM
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KWSTAS KWSTAS is offline
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No worries my friend. I want to exchange tips and knowledge with
everyone who is willing to share and learn. I was referring to N
scale and small size timbers. See ya.
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  #28  
Old 03-15-2015, 11:46 AM
kcorbin kcorbin is offline
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N scale is 1:148, this building is 1:144. So no problem with this technique on N scale.
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  #29  
Old 03-15-2015, 12:03 PM
kcorbin kcorbin is offline
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1:144 model by my friend Nell Corkin, she does have a blog where she shows some techniques. As you can see the building has a lot of fine detail including realistic looking wood. Nell used to be a miniature model maker for the movies.

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  #30  
Old 03-15-2015, 04:32 PM
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KWSTAS KWSTAS is offline
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I 'm at the 1/160 side of N scale . Anyway, these are very fine models
with alot of realism and dedication in detailing. Thanks for sharing.
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