Recommendation of cutting circles and small areas

[johna]

I am relatively new to paper cutting. I've been working with a couple of simple models but now have a couple that are more complex. I have a questions about tools.

1) What is the best method for cutting/scribing circles. I tried putting an e-xacto knife in a small compass and that did not work.
2) What is the best kind of knife for extremely small detail work? I have the pen-type knife, but that doesn't seem to work well as there is lots of play at the end of the blade, so it's very difficult to control the blade.

I'm attaching a couple of pictures to give everyone and idea of the sizes.
The first attachment shows some circles and the dimensions I am working with. The second attachment shows the close detail work.

Any recommended tools and sources? I'm looking forward to learning more and appreciate the help.
Thanks,
John

[LarsW]

Hi John,

many ways lead to Rome, as we say, but i'll try to answer your 2 questions by showing my methods.
1. Cutting circles
As i work with even smaller circles (5mm and below), i use a so-called "Punch&Die-Set". It's a small iron stencil (u-shaped) with an acryl-glass stencil-plate on top of it. In both stencils, there are corresponding 9 holes in different sizes.
You can lay the paper between these two stencils and use a stamp to punch through the desired diameter. I attached 4 pics showing the device.
For your larger circles, i'd recommend punch pliers. They're usually used for leatherworking (belts, horse outfit etc.), but can cut as easily holes in paper.
Another pic here showing it.
2. Cutting small parts
Maybe you can use a surgeon's scalpel. It's got a pointy top, shown in the last pic. But it's very sharp so there's always danger of cutting away some of your fine details. I usually use a simple cutter but i don't cut my way thorugh these details, i rather punch the paper. Just try to hold the cutter in a vertical way, so you have little "play" at the end.

So there are my methods, i'm sure there are some more

Kind regards

Lars

[Tim Crowe]

The first two circles I would cut using a pen-type craft knife. Personally I use the snap off blade type.

The second picture, looks a complete pain to cut. I would use a fresh scalpel blade. Don't cut the main part out, and when cutting hold it down with a steel ruler to stabilise it.

Take your time, If it takes a week so be it. Get a good light source and do a few cuts at a time.

Patience young padwan

[bigbenn]

Hi,
I overcame the problem of making perfect circles with a correct center so that "wheels", turrets or whatever spin without deviation.
I use a hollow tube which is a throwaway from a sweet sold by the trade name of "Chupa-Chup", although I'm sure you will find similar sweets for kids if you look around.
Method: Cut long strips of photocopy paper the width of the circle you wish to create.
Use PVA or a similar wet glue and coat one side of the strip with glue, then wrap the wetted glue strip around and around the hollow tube, gently pulling tight until you have created the size of circle you want. Any deviation of the paper strip can be corrected by gently flattening the sides of the completed circle on a flat wood or glass surface. Set aside overnight to dry, then use a modelling knife to cut the "wheel" from the hollow tube, which is probably nylon. The nylon center acts as a bearing and if the hollow tube center is much the same diameter as the ones here, a thin wire axle of whatever length you want can be fitted easily through the nylon bearing central hole. If you spin the "wheel" and it runs true, without a wobble, then you have created your first wheel without a lathe, hole punch, or any other tool.
I use this method to build multiple wheels for a model truck or car I might be building. I glue on the parts from the kit to give the flat wheel the shape I want it to have prior to painting and fitting to a model. I use the same technique for any round object I want to create, especially Turret bases on warships, Turrrets on tank models, so the turret spins true and so on.
BigBenn

[milenio3]

I was, for years, using my shaking hand to cut out circles. Then I found this neat tool:


At sale here:
Welcome to Olfa

[mbauer]

Hi Johna,

Cutting circles is one of the most cuts it seems there is to do.

I use scissors for the outside cut, a hobby knife (xacto) to do the inside cuts.

Tried a beam compass cutter (same as photo above). Found that it wandered if you tried to cut more than one layer.

I plan to purchase a Japanese hole punch set for the smaller holes.

I've used a leather hole punch like the one shown, it works ok, if you only punch 3 sheets at a time.

A current project has 8-laminations of 125lb cardstock. Was real easy just to use a small cordless drill and drill the holes needed.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[SCEtoAUX]

I sometimes use Fiskars Softouch Micro Tip Scissors for some of that kind of detailed work. A rough cut with the #11 blade then clean up with the scissors.




The scissors have very sharp pointed tips that can get into tight angles. The handle is very easy to use, especially if you have problems with the conventional style of scissors handles.

It is usually a judgement call as to when to use the scissors or the blade. Sometimes a rough cut with one or the other then switching between the two as needed to get the final trim.

As mentioned before, various kinds of punches and beam compass cutters are used for circles.

[johna]

@BigBen - Can you post a picture of your process? It's sounds interesting but I'm not quite sure I'm understanding it.
@SCEtoAux - Agreed on the Fiskars. I could not live without mine and they are the only scissors I use when I model.

I've not had any luck with the beam cutter. I have one, and like mentioned, it's too wobbly and inaccurate for me. I've used a leather punch with a few successes but the fixed punch size is too limiting and it creates raised edges around the circle.

Ultimately, I am still going back and forth between the Fiskars for larger circles and a #11 for smaller circles or inside circles. I'm not making perfect circles but I am getting better. I find that working close using an Optivisor #5 magnifier headband works wonders and has helped increase my skills immensely. I would not want to model without it.

All other knifes that I've yet tried have proved unsuccessful for various reasons. Penknifes, the Fiskars 'finger' knifes, and any blade smaller than a #11 are problems for me. The #11 blade can still be wobbly but with time and patience it is getting better.

John

[modelperry]

For 1 to 5 mm, I use a japanese hole drill. Japanese Book Drill

For larger sizes I use the Fiskars scissors for the outside and an olfa knife for the inside.

I have an Olfa circle cutter, but just have not had much luck with it, or any other circle cutter I have tried.

Greg

[Steelrat]

@johna
Re Big Bens method: He uses a thin lollypop tube stick as a hub and wraps the strip of paper around and around until the the layers have built up to the required diameter of the wheel/circle that you want. Then you can cut the tube off at the paper face and you have a hollow hub to allow the wheel/turret bearing to spin. See attached picture for build up of paper before trimming tube.

Hope this helps.

Steelrat.