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  #1  
Old 05-24-2011, 06:42 AM
Gdog Gdog is offline
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GPM Ship Accessories

Hello,

I am a complete newbie and thinking of trying a GPM ship kit from their website. One question I have is about cardboard from the accessories list. Is this extra carboard needed even if getting laser cut frames?

Below is the Accessories list for the Battleship Courbet.
I understand what everything is except the cardboard and Tektura, which looks like cardboard in the picture.

Akcesoria:

» GPM-WM145 PARIS/COURBET(Modelik)-low - cut with laser frames (1)
» GPM-RF20-1 reling 1/200 3-fold - photo etch 80 cm (4)
» GPM-RF20-2 Relingi 1/200 double photo etch 80 cm (1)
» GPM-RF20-3 Gangways ,ladder 1/200 -photo etch (1)
» GPM-RF20-4 double rail 45 1/200 scale -- 2/45 - long 80 cm (1)
» GPM-RK20-1 RELING 3-row 1/200 Rail - kartoon 120 cm (2)
» GPM-RK20-2 RELING 2-row 1/200 Rail - kartoon 120 cm (1)
» GPM-RK20-4 RELING - double karton 1/200 scale - long 100 cm (1)
» GPM-RK20-3 Gangways ,ladder 1/200 -kartoon (1)
» GPM-L20FR-Fr10 COURBET -barells 305,138mm (1)
» GPM-TEK-0004 1 mm CARBORD -8 SZT - 35X16 cm (5)
» GPM-TEK-0005 0,5 mm TEKTURA 8 SZT- 35X16 cm (1)
» GPM-TEK-0003 2mm -Tektura A3 420x297mm (2)
» GPM-KLE-0001 FALCO-PU- poliuretan-Glue (2)
» GPM-KLE-0002 Glue Wikol "Stolarz" (1)
» GPM-KLE-0003 Glue cyjanoakryl (2)
» GPM-KLE-0004 Butapren- Glue (1)

Thanks for any help
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2011, 12:35 PM
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B-Manic B-Manic is offline
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None of these add-ons are necessary to build the kit. You can laminate card stock or ceral boxes to get the correct thickness for frames etc. You can roll your own barrels and make railings out of cardstock, wire or thread and the same for ladders/stairs.

If this is your first kit I encourage you to build it straight from the box. I always scan kits before I start cutting though. Everyone makes mistakes. Read through some of the ship builds here and you will get some great tips.

Whatever you decide, enjoy it and post pictures of your progress (and ask for help / advice if you need it).

~ Douglas
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  #3  
Old 05-24-2011, 11:41 PM
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Jim Nunn Jim Nunn is offline
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Gdog,

The skill set needed to build a paper model is different then a plastic model and like plastic models you learn these skills by making mistakes. I would suggest that you purchase just the kit and perhaps the precut frames. Then set them aside and down load some of the exceptional free models available on the net. Use these to learn the art of paper modeling. Paper Modeling can be the most satisfying form of model building it can also be very frustrating to the new modeler. Start with something simple and build it no matter how bad or good it turns out. Then build another model and when you think you are ready build the big kit.

As Douglas pointed out look around for 0.5mm and 1 mm card stock you don't have to purchase it. Some of us make our own thick card stock by laminating readily available 67lb card stock. And yes some parts in the kit need to be glued to thicker card stock. Make your own parts from the kit the add-on parts will need to be painted and it can be difficult to match the color of the kit. Speaking of painting you will need paint, color art pens or water colors (my favorite) to color the white edge of the cut parts. This is the one thing you can do that makes the biggest deference on how the model will look when finished.

Don't bother with the glues Aleene's Tacky and Elmer's Glue-All (label states "New Stronger Formula") are readily available at K-mart and Aleene's is used by the majority of the US members.

Lastly ask questions, show us your model build even if you think its not that good. we are a friendly bunch and we want to help you become a great paper modeler.

Jim Nunn
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:20 AM
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Darwin Darwin is offline
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Gdog, I second (third?) the above comments. I personally like Aileens tacky glue for most tasks, and the purple-formula crazy glue (purple when wet, colorless when dry) for times that I need an instant bond (and for soaking into the card stock to "case harden" it. CYA soaked into cardstock turns into something similar to a phenolic resin....makes it hard, but also makes it brittle, so make sure the part is formed first.) Something I've found helpful for coloring the cut edges is Crayola brand non-permanent markers. Please don't hesitate asking for help when you get into a tough spot...just remember that a picture is worth a thousand words when trying to explain what the particular problem is. And....welcome aboard, matey....can't have too many ship builders around.
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