#1
|
||||
|
||||
Storing unbuilt kits
Hi,
I have a dilemma (more pressing than the usual). I have a few pre-printed kits, which I purchased about 3 years ago, and they are not looking too well. The printed parts don't look too healthy, in fact, it seems as if the color is being "sapped" from them. I keep those models in a closed cardboard box, in a dark place in my room. Now I'm thinking this isn't really the best place to store them, as temperatures fluctuate in a high manner rapidly during the Spring and Summer. I'm thinking this is what's affecting them. An idea I'm toying with is placing those kits in a decommissioned freezer in our garage. The temperature there is cool and it sure is dark when the door is closed. Would there be problems with this? Where do you guys store your unbuilt kits, and what measures do you take to slow down the aging process? Should I have sprayed the pages with a sealer prior to storing? Definitely interested on this, as I would hate to see those kits go to waste. But if worse comes to worse, I'll purchase duplicates. |
Google Adsense |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Haven't seen any problems with the ones I have stashed and the temperature variations here in Phoenix area are worse then in Hollister. Usually the problems with ink fade is from UV light exposure, although high heat and exposure to some chemicals can affect them also. I spend 20 plus years in the graphics/pre-press industry and usually only saw ink fade that quick when the paper was a really cheap, high acid content newsprint. I've got printed samples even on newsprint that are over 20 years old with minimal fading.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
all of my unfinished/too complicated for my current skills :D are put in a plastic box with a bunch of 'silica gel' bag. BUT i don't know in 3years, since i start papercraft a year ago.
__________________
WIP: None |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I have had models printed on a Cannon bleach away almost completely in three years. The were stored in drawers in an air conditioned apartment. When I found them, I switched to a rebuilt Epson Artisan. The archival ink is more expensive, but cheap at twice the cost.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Both paper and staples are are likely to be of better quality than they used to be but if storage is likely to be prolonged I recommend removing the staples to avoid the risk of staining by rust.
|
Google Adsense |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe your models are being damaged by acidic fumes given off by decaying cardboard box, also smog and ozone will damage paper and inks. Is Hollister smoggy?
Art Supply stores sell portfolios and acid free archival boxes and folders for keeping flat paper art in. Are your paper models afraid of being stored in an earthquake fault zone and trying to run away. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Regardless of the method in which you keep the originals, it is OK (legal) to make high-dpi scans of pre-printed models for future use in case of damage to the original?
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
John may have a point about the decaying cardboard box. Ag chemicals also could affect it, but figure you would notice that like paint pealing off the house or lungs giving up. Remember getting residue drift over from a cropduster going up 99 that spotted the paint since I didn't get it washed off in time.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
So long as they are only for your own use.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I have not heard anyone mention putting them in large sealing plastic bags, before storing them. I think "Looker" is right about removing the staples too. I most certainly would make high quality back up scans of the models, especially, if you notice them fading. At least you could bring them back with Photoshop or some other program.
|
Google Adsense |
|
|