Scoring and folding

**DavideV** · #1 01-21-2016, 11:32 AM

Hi all!

I read several times that a better scoring is done on the blank side of the paper, where there's no ink, so that the printed part is preserved.

I did as adviced, but I still get the ink damaged while folding.

Is it normal? I was thinking about repairing it by passing some black pen or pencil or paint with the side of a brush, haven't decided yet... do you think is a good idea?

Thanks!

**Texman** · #2 01-21-2016, 11:36 AM

First question, is it inkjet or laser? Or is it a published kit.

Not sure what happened there, but it looks like the score was almost all the way through the paper.

I score on the printed side, then turn it over and score the non printed side, then fold. Haven't seen that type of damage on my builds.

**DavideV** · #3 01-21-2016, 11:55 AM

I brought the pdf file at a print shop that had a really big, fancy printer so my guess is it's laser. I score with a blunt knife, usually two or three light pass and when I turn it on the printed side there's no visible sign of scoring.

**Texman** · #4 01-21-2016, 12:02 PM

Laser print is notorious for the print "cracking and flaking" on the fold site. It will be really hard to match the color of the print to cover it.

**MacSongLi** · #5 01-21-2016, 12:02 PM

I always spray a clear coat on the card (2 coats on the front, and one coat on the back) after printing and before cutting and scoring. I got this trick from vermin_king here on papermodelers.

Gary

**willygoat** · #6 01-21-2016, 12:20 PM

If the print is laser, then spray sealing it first is the way to go.

For scoring, I use three different tools depending on what type of score it need to be. I have an old ball point pen that is completely dead with no ink. I use this on small curved lines, or like around the tabs on a wheel.

I also use a special spring tool by Fiskars that I found at a craft store. It has two ball tips, one is about 2 mm in diameter, and the other is 1 mm.

The last tool I use is an old X-acto blade. The tip broke off, so I used my Dremel and grind down the tip, dulled the cutting edge, and rounded it for a smooth, thin edge. I use this mostly on straight scores, or ones that need to be really precise and thin.

**Zakopious** · #7 01-21-2016, 01:27 PM

I use acrylic paint on folds and edges.
My wife and I both use acrylic paint in our hobbies so we have a good selection to pick from.
See: http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/333211-post16.html

**Don Boose** · #8 01-21-2016, 02:01 PM

My favorite edge coloring instruments:

Caran d'ache Neocolor II water soluble wax crayons. (http://www.dickblick.com/products/caran-dache-neocolor-ii-artists-crayons/ ) Especially good for folded edges. Can be used like watercolors by dipping a brush in water and then swabbing color from the side of the crayon in order to get into tight places. The crayons can also be sharpened to a point.

Tombow ABT brush pens (Dual Brush Pen - Art + Craft) or Faber-Castell Pitt Artist pens (Art & Graphic). Unlike marker pens, these are not prone to bleeding into the adjacent areas. Excellent for edge coloring, not as good for coloring folded edges.

Expensive, but they last a long time.

Don

**DavideV** · #9 01-21-2016, 03:06 PM

Ok, so the laser printer was the problem.

Thank you guys, also for the coating advice.

**NevadaBlue** · #10 02-27-2016, 12:00 PM

I haven't made a lot of models yet, but I have had good results with this. It is a six inch pocket rule. I rounded and polished the edge on the round end, making it smooth. Rounding the corners slightly on the other end is useful too. Cheap, easy and is still good for using as a rule. It fits my hand nicely too.