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  #11  
Old 12-23-2017, 06:47 AM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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Necroscoping was just a suggestion to try. It works for some people and does not work for other people depending on how it is attempted.

Try going with the spray adhesive method.

You can scale any model part to match a scale that you want. You need to be aware of the maximum page size your available printer or the print shop can accomodate and the costs if using a commercial print shop.

If you want a consistant HO or 1/87 scale divide the scale of the model you have by 87 to get the percentage of increase or decrease for printing.

For example if the model is at 1/33 and you want it to be 1/87 you would divide 33 by 87 to get 0.379 then move the decimal place two places to the right so you would print the model parts at 37.9%.

If the model is at 1/250 you would divide 250 by 87 to get 2.87 so that would be 287% which is almost three times as big. That is where you get into the situation of whether your available printer or the print shop can handle such a large increase in size.
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2017, 07:54 AM
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GyverX GyverX is offline
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Beyond all the tricks of the trade with in this thread, the one thing that is missing is the difference between the print quality of printing on 20/24 lb paper and cardstock. When printing anything (Text, Graphic, Photo) what you print on is the key on the quality you get. Even if you print on 20/24 lb and stick it cardstock, the quality is going to stay the same on which paper you printed it on.

There are other problems with pasting / gluing two full sheets together. I haven't posted anything about it but Im just now getting back into paper modeling after finally getting a new printer (Epson ET-2750) While the prints are not photo quality like I would prefer. it alows me to get back into this hobby I miss. You dont have to print on "Cardstock" because of it being so porous, but matte photo cardstock. This is a bit more dense and not as porous regular cardstock.

Hope this helps
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2017, 08:47 PM
LaPapparadzi LaPapparadzi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCEtoAUX View Post
Necroscoping was just a suggestion to try. It works for some people and does not work for other people depending on how it is attempted.

Try going with the spray adhesive method.

You can scale any model part to match a scale that you want. You need to be aware of the maximum page size your available printer or the print shop can accomodate and the costs if using a commercial print shop.

If you want a consistant HO or 1/87 scale divide the scale of the model you have by 87 to get the percentage of increase or decrease for printing.

For example if the model is at 1/33 and you want it to be 1/87 you would divide 33 by 87 to get 0.379 then move the decimal place two places to the right so you would print the model parts at 37.9%.

If the model is at 1/250 you would divide 250 by 87 to get 2.87 so that would be 287% which is almost three times as big. That is where you get into the situation of whether your available printer or the print shop can handle such a large increase in size.
Thank you thank you thank you !!! for your advice - much appreciated - will now try all what you said -i always wanted to do this scaling down thingy - BUT AM SLOW A SNAIL - I'll go slow - until I master it and it becomes second nature.
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2017, 08:55 PM
LaPapparadzi LaPapparadzi is offline
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GyverX - thank you for yr advice/ tips much appreciated.


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  #15  
Old 12-23-2017, 09:15 PM
LaPapparadzi LaPapparadzi is offline
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OK folks.....
well, i was feeling embarrassed (newbie fears) to really mention what i intended to do - but i lay it all out -

well over a period of 2years i collected all the Books i could get on the CUT AND ASSEMBLE SERIES - by the Authors called A. G. Smith - AND - Edmund V Gillon Jr

I got all the books - and i intend to build all o them models before i move into oblivion. BUT because i love those books so much - that i don't wanna cut the pages off - and wanna keep them books on my shelf for future- Hence as a beginner - i ended up color-copying the pages - and now trying to figure a way to stick it on card-stock -etc etc etc ....

Well but some of the advice i got on this forum - like scan and copy print - its only now that i know and realize (after coming to this forum )

Like - i want to save and scan every book onto my pc - i don't intend cutting the pages off - as then it renders the Book useless - as the book also contains Textual matter - like info - and historic info - about places - about structures - etc. etc etc.

I think one of the administrators Rick Steff - is also into these books (if I'm not mistaken)

hmmmmmm..... so that's the story

Hence any advice - is and will be Highly Appreciated !!!!
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Old 12-23-2017, 09:28 PM
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depending on the subject, you can always buy a second copy, Amazon and Ebay, and the book dealer networks like Alibris and Abe Books will have multiple vendors selling copies for a good deal, and if the title if current, you can order the books from Amazon or Barnes and Noble, or even Dover Publications.

Seeing that you mentioned me, depending on the title, I am planning on building the kits, I am also a wood worker, so I am interested in building the Saw Mill, and being of Dutch heritage, Windmills are always a fun subject for me, so don't be afraid to cut them, and you can always get a second copy for cheap if you shop around.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2017, 10:02 PM
LaPapparadzi LaPapparadzi is offline
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hi Rick..thx for the response - yes i read your post somewhere about these books - i see you're more interested in the BUILD YOUR OWN SERIES - (WINDMILL/ SAWMILL / CATAPULT / GUILLOTINE )...well i got 3 - don't have the 4th one -the GUILLOTINE book -
And all these books were not cheap to get - especially being in Canada as the US $ Exchange rates are high - also MAILING rates US to CAN are way way High.
Well secondly all of these books 97% are out of print - I contacted DOVER Publishing
and they confirmed it - and what they do have - I'm not interested in =
and dover told me to try ebay / etc / etc /etc.--- Alibris has those books - BUT example book cost US$ 6 but shipping to CAN is US $ 17.50. same with Barnes/ Abe b / Biblio - I'm registered on all their sites -
i also have the MAKE YOU OWN series by Kyle Wickware ( steam engine/Locomotive) and James Rudolph (Paper Clock).

well i just have to build now ....................
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2017, 06:08 AM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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Try Abe Books. There are sellers from all over the world so maybe you can save a bit on the shipping price.
https://www.abebooks.com/?cm_sp=TopNav-_-Home-_-Logo

First off any scanning and saving of commercially available paper models should be for your own personal use and archiving only. Those scans do not need to be showing up on EBay or Pinterest or PaperCraftSquare or some other file sharing site.

Try stitching the scanned pages together. Programs like Windows ICE can stitch together images scanned in sections to make one image. The resulting image will be the same size as the original so in most cases will not print on a home printer unless it has large format capabilities. There might be some image composite editors for non-Windows OS so you will need to search for them if you do not use Windows.

Those type of programs can also stitch together photos to make panoramas.
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2017, 08:17 AM
LaPapparadzi LaPapparadzi is offline
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SCEtoAUX - thx for your post !!

yes abe b is one of my go-to's next is amz.ca - and a couple o' others -

EBAY GSP is a rip-off for ME- as a Canadian (When it comes to GSP program) item cost 3 $ - shipping cost 21 $ -ya many a times I've "thrown" a lot of "unnecessary" COIN TO THAT BEGGAR (pun intended )

about scanning models from ALL or ANY books -to iterate - LOUD and CLEAR - they are and will be solely FOR MY PERSONAL USE ( I don't wanna DEPRIVE any author or artist off their BREAD ) But thanks for bringing up that point - to help us all REMEMBER - " piracy deprives livelihood and stunts creativity ".

Now coming to your 3rd point - stitching scans ?? - IMHO - is it that - only if one makes a HUGE model whereby the output print is large sheets of paper ?? am i right ?? then they gotta stitch ? bring all pieces together to make one part ...??
but if its HO scale its all gonna be tiny (like - diagrams - will fit more or less within an A4 size page)... ????
hmm ..... laugh at me if u must ...if am wrong enlighten me.
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2017, 09:01 AM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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If your scanner can only handle USLtr or A4 size pages and the pages in the model book are larger then you can make multiple scans of each page in the book making sure you cover all of the page in the scans and have some overlap of the areas scanned. That helps the stitching program to connect the sections with a less chance of some unwanted distortion. The image stitching software can then stitch the scans together and make one page the same size as the pages from the book. You need to check to make sure that whatever graphics program you use does not change the size of the pages when you open the pages to check them out. Sometimes the resolution of the stitching software and the default resolution of the graphics program do not match and the pages will be resized. Always check the size of the page before printing.

I checked some of the Dover Cut & Assemble books I have and the pages are around 9 inches x 12 inches, so an entire page will not fit on a scanner bed that can only scan up to USLtr or A4 nor will a printer that can only scan up to the width of a USLtr or A4 page be able to print at the original scale.

It is a good way to keep an electronic archive of the model book with the pages at the original size.

Printing is another matter. If your printer can print large format pages then you can probably print entire pages at the original scale. I have a large format printer that can print up to Super A3 (13 inches x 19 inches). It can actually print pages longer than 19 inches but 13 inches is the widest that will fit through the printer.

You could scale down the pages to a size that will fit your printer then do some measuring to figure out the scale of the print.

You could open the scans in a graphics program and copy the individual parts from the scans and paste them onto pages that your printer can accomodate then print that way. Again, make sure the canvas you are pasting onto has the same resolution as the page you are cuttin

If you have a commercial printing place that will print the pages at the original size then you just have to account for the price they will charge.
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