Confused about paper.

[whulsey]

Go through Kevin's conversions reference in post above you. Simply for what you're running into the metric is grams per sq meter while the American is from the basis weight for a uncut reem of the paper. You've ran into the situation were the uncut size of the Cover stock is really different from the uncut size of the Card stock. Why we can't just switch over to the metric system....?

[Lex]

I think it's okay to not dwell on this question. After all we paper modellers are only interested in thickness and if the paper thickness is in the right ballpark, we don't really worry about its weight. It's just how well things fit, and even then a difference of a few tenths of a mm of thickness doesn't really matter THAT much.

For me I normally go in with a ruler and measure off the paper thickness directly, then pick what I need.

[buckeye81]

Here are pictures of the two packages I saw today.

[Vermin_King]

I stick with 67# and 110# for my projects

[airdave]

Originally Posted by Kevin WS

US/Metric Paper Conversions Johan's birds it is important to stick to the paper he recommends as closely as possible.

If you use a thicker paper you will definitely run into problems, as to build the models successfully you have to shape and bend the parts to fit. This will not happen if the paper is too thick.

And yes Leehound, Metric and US paper conversions are a nightmare. Because of this I recently put up a post on the topic to help members of this forum. I hope it will also assist you going forward - I struggled with the same issues for a long time until I cottoned on to the fact that for modellers doing conversions finding a like thickness is the actual key.

Here is the link......

US/Metric Paper Conversions

Listen to Kevin!!

Johan's models are not to be built with cardstocks.
I understand that some of you may have gotten away with it,
but its important to respect and listen to the Author's recommendations
and in this case, the thinner "paper" allows for better shaping of the parts.
There is also some bending and manipulation of parts that may result in creases and folds (if using cardstocks or coverstocks).

120g papers (about 28-30lb) are what I consider the premium copy papers.
Expensive and weighty compared to cheapo copy paper (around 20-24lbs)
I've also noticed the 120g stuff is often glossier, smoother.

And he oftens specifies not to use "photo" papers.

[Ckendzierski]

Did you look at number of sheets in each package

I am thinking with diffrene in the way made they dont have same nuber of sheets

Hucky

[zot]

I printed these on Office Depot presentation paper. I have to say that the print quality on this paper was really nice. Much more saturated color versus when I use regular cardstock. Quality paper can make a big difference

[Kevin WS]

Don't get confused!

Use the I formation I provided to find the relevant paper thickness, then find (in terms of thickness) a corresponding US paper.

So, referring to the chart....

US/Metric Paper Conversions

120 grn = 065 of an inch. The closest equivalent thickness can be found in US 36 lb BOND or LEDGER. So that's what you need. Simple!

If you read the information I provided you will see that thickness in US paper is NOT constant. But providing the thickness is close you will be fine. Check with a caliper just to be sure, and then go up or down a size if you have to. You will always use the paper anyway!

And as I said before, for Johan's model's use the paper he recommends - a fraction thicker is fine. I have made many of his models (some more then once), and where I have used other paper sizes, have had issues related to shaping the model or in terms of its strength.