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#1
02-27-2018, 04:27 PM
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Questions about papercraft making techniques and how to improve.
Hello! Im new to this forum. I have several questions i would like to ask, so im posting them all on the same thread to prevent spam, hope thats ok.
I was making papercrafts years ago but i didnt trust myself (i was young) and made mostly cubeecrafts. Now that i started again, i found the courage to make some models, my younger self wouldnt even consider trying. Not much but its an improvement for me :D I still have some issues though and i would like your opinion on them. So the the second start of my papercraft "joyrney" begun when i decided to make a gift for my friend. It was this Levi chibi model, never tried this level of difficulty before and i was impressed that i managed to do it: https://imgur.com/v9QI6IZ obviously it wast perfect but it was pretty good, and i was introduced to folding all the lines. With that i mean this: https://imgur.com/a2oDtul The models (polygon-based i think they are called?) have files with lines and line less so i assumed i have to fold ALL the lines, and i printed the line less file, folded it where i could see where it should be folded, but some straight cuts might make it difficult to show where the line should have been (dont forget its the line less model) (Here is what i mean: https://imgur.com/K3NXshE In the lined model you can see where to fold, in the lineless because there is no corner, you dont know exactly where) so ive spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to fold, some wrong folds were made, some of them were fixed, the overall model looked okay. So i thought thats the way it works with these kind of models. After that i made Bonk from Plants Vs Zombies: https://imgur.com/2s4BcWF This time i cut the black outlines and was a little more careful so whites didnt show and i did ok, although at some point a part wasn't long enough and that started a blank space to appear thankfully on the back which i "filled" poorly: https://imgur.com/DILMQwl again i folded every single line. Now we come to my third finished model in this style (ive made some other stuff too, but not related to this question which eventually come :P ) the third model in this style is Mimikyu: https://imgur.com/a/sVvnN https://imgur.com/a/vPIed So this was the hardest one in terms of being unavailable to hide the white spots, especially in its ears where the parts were small and was difficult to even glue them propertly. As you can see here too i've folded EVERY line. The good thing is ive found a way to fold the lines that i dont know where exactly they are, which is having the lined model on the pc monitor at the exact size as the a4 which i print and trace it thanks to to the light of the screen. Still i spent most of the time just folding which again seemed like the way to go. And after that i noticed something on the page from which i got the model: https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vlKRSOHQo...kyu%2Bsite.jpg Not only the model lacks most of the folds, it looks soo much better! I thought i should do all the folds so it sticks up property with less whites showing possible. Clearly i was wrong. And now im asking, how can i achieve that?? Sure my model doesnt look that bad but its pretty lame compared to this one... What advice can you give me? Can i just stop folding all the lines, save A LOT of time and make my model better just like that? I mean its smoother i knew that but i thought that by not folding all the lines i would cause problems. Also im aware of edge coloring, but i dont have markers matching the color of the model, i had green for the bonk but it doest need it, few whites are showing only which isn't the case with mimikyu. Any advice on edge coloring though would be helpful too :D So lets get to the second question: Apart from these models and some other easier ones i started two other models, like side-projects, because they will take more time and i can do the work little by little without getting bored. The first one is Glados from Portal which also needs your advice. Ive now cut all the pieces and i have to fold and glue them. The problem is most of them are pretty small. I started doing the 4 cores. On the first one i accepted my fate that ill have to reprint some stuff because i was gonna ruin them just like the first core: https://imgur.com/XdJv1Ye as you can see it hardly looks like a sphere and it has glue over its eye. In this point ill have to note that i HATE the style this template was made, and by that i mean this: https://imgur.com/Y5GMFnT (hope its ok to upload this pic) having "glue triangles" on both sides, alternating between them what for? Its only more difficult to glue the pieces together (here i draw what im talking about: https://imgur.com/B9CUGAc ) Also Do you see the tiiiny triangles which you are supposed to glue? really? how am i supposed to apply glue to 2 atoms and expect them to hold the other part of the paper. Its too small, my cutter hardly cuts it without ripping it and more hardly i fold it. So i decided to fix the second problem, by cutting them completely, i could also fix the first one in photoshop or simply by cutting glue areas where i wanted but it was too late. So with the second problem which ruined the first core i decided to give it another try, and the other 3 cores turned out almost fine!: https://imgur.com/a/4H9Yi So i want your opinion for those two "problems". Are they problems to you too? Is it just bad template making? Are there benefits from this? Did i do something wrong? Im also aware of strip gluing or how its called where you glue strips from the inside to replace the glue areas but i couldnt do it in such a small surface, and certainty not when im closing the sphere. I would also like some advice on dealing with such small parts. I know i can use a toothpick, which i tired but didnt do much tbh, maybe its me, maybe its my glue: https://imgur.com/3960cZ3 I hate that glue  I hate it because a. Glue sticks on the edge all if the time, preventing glue from coming out and b. Almost 90% of the times i push it as gently as i can so only a little glue comes out but apparently that triggers it to wake up and start unleashing an unstopapble wave of gluermaggedon which can only be prevented by putting the cup back on, which guess what, stops it only until you take it back off. Im as gently as possible, im pretty sure it isnt me the problem but who knows. I dont know if i can find a more appropriate glue in my country (Greece) though....Anyway any general advice before continuing my Glados model would be apreciated :D (btw the other model im starting was a goal in life to make from the time i first saw it when i was young and i was sure no mortal could make it. Well here i am now starting it and honestly im not that worried. its Very big, with lots of parts, but none of them really are that small as i saw, nor i think there are much tricky stuff to do, maybe im wrong. the model is the 50 page Howls Moving Castle! :D i didnt even know the movie, which im gonna see soon enough, But i LOVE the design and i generaly LOVE steam-punk themed stuff and more unique models like this one. Until now i've cut 8 pages, so i have a way to go, if i need help with it, ill ask when the time comes.) And the last question, different from the others: I know that most models are based on digital 3d models, which are converted to low resolution polugon or something like that and with peprakura are converted into 2d templates. I have no experience with 3d modeling but i was wondering, could i find 3d models do this my self? I havent done much research, i thought it would be better to ask here. i know there are sites with free 3d models, ill have to search more about the copyright stuff, but at least for me, can i just take a 3d model, import it somehow to perdurable and have it ready to be printed? Is it that simple? No modifications needed? Also one extra question but related to "editing" models. How could i re texture a model? I can use photoshop well, the problem is not putting in on top of a template. My problem is how to wrap the texture, or drawing or whatever so it connects well. i mean there are 2 different parts that are to be glued side by side, so the texture must continue from one to another. Is there any software, or maybe perpakura itself that is capable of such stuff? i dont know, peprakura has information about which part is connected to which so maybe use that info to automatically place the remaining texture to the right part on the right side etc. Thats all i guess. I know is a big post, i thought there had to be context so you understand what im saying. Sorry for any mistakes, its my first Thread and im really happy to be introduced to this community :D 
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#2
02-27-2018, 08:34 PM
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I’ll take the first stab of responding by saying, you’re not alone in feeling frustrated as you form and fashion parts with seemingly incoherent tab designs. I too scratch my head at several models and wonder why some assemblies had them and others did not. I can say that talking to modelers and especially designing my own helped me become “at peace” with pieces. That is to say, the designer did what they thought would work for them. But as you develop as a skilled craftsman, you will hone your decision making and choose to add tabs where they help you, glueing stiffeners elsewhere, and delete components that you know from experience will just be in the way. I will say, I have benefited from the free and purchased downloads that I’ve progressed through because, my first assembly is nearly always a test-bed for later builds.
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Happy Crafting - Scot On the Bench: Planck and Hershcel
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#3
02-27-2018, 08:53 PM
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Hello Alex.
I have built only a couple of kits like yours, but lets see... (My answers will be by my experience with those few kits.) Quote:
What I mean is: when those kits have very small number of polygons, folds are inevitable. Take this example: The Vaporeon is small, and has a low number of polygons. Even if I didn't marked each line, when gluing the parts, and they took shape, the folds marked themselves alone. It is more evident in the body and the legs. I didn't fold the lines on the face, but still when gluing they were marked a little. But when you work with bigger kits that have much more polygons, you just don't need to fold at all. Take a look at the penguins and the face/body of the doll here: Free Model Contest #5 - Moekami's "Princess of the Crystal" I didn't mark a single fold. And the result is much more natural, smooth, and nice. But one important advice: Be patient. And practice a lot. Your kits look good. With more practice, you will see your folds get even better, and everything improves gradually. Quote:
I have very hard times folding and gluing so small pieces. Quote:
in the case of curved parts, it also helps to shape them properly. In this model: https://rubenandres77.deviantart.com...on-paper-model most of the parts are designed like that. They interlock. And that helps to hold the shapes of the body, hips and legs. and in the head it helps a lot to keep the hair like it is supposed to be. That also happened in the Princess of the Crystal, with some good results. I actually like it when the designers do that. Quote:
 When I see tabs less than 4 mm wide I just cut them out, or step away from the kit. But, one solution is this: cut out all the tab. Kill it. Then use a small strip of paper to join both parts from behind. But you say is difficult. It is. But remember: "be patient, and practice" If still doesn't work, use a hammer, free your rage, and go on to the next model. Sometimes destruction is good therapy and the best solution to finish difficult models. Quote:
and I usually regret it. Generally I use white glue (PVA glue). Using a toothpick to spread it on the parts is generally the recommended way. After a couple of models using white glue, you'll get used to it and will find it produces better results. Quote:
I'll add that word to my dictionary XD Quote:
But the big one is just.... well... maybe in my next life. Quote:
Just have a look, search for "pepakura" "unfolding" in this forum, and you'll start getting answers on how to import a 3D file and unfold it in Pepakura or other software. Or maybe someone with better knowledge can answer you here. Regards,
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Rubén Andrés Martínez A.
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#4
02-28-2018, 02:10 AM
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I'll chime in here about edge coloring. imho, gray is the way to go. It blends well with most colors and, once finished is not very noticeable. If you have several shades of gray (!) use the one that is lighter than the color you are working on. If you have only one gray then press lighter for light colors and heavier for darker colors. I've even used a regular pencil to do edge coloring. Now if you want to try to match colors the same thing applies, use a lighter color than the color you are working on. hth
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This is a great hobby for the retiree - interesting, time-consuming, rewarding - and about as inexpensive a hobby as you can find. Shamelessly stolen from a post by rockpaperscissor 
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#5
02-28-2018, 08:20 AM
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Thank you sreinmann, feels good to hear it :D
Ruben thank you veery much once again for such a detailed reply!! I feel like a fool for folding all the lines :P No such folding the next time! I understand patience and practice being a key to this, i do my best :D Quote:
I know right? Im scared xD But its hard for me to believe that its harder than the sailor moon model you did. It looks awesome like the rest of your models! :D They look so clean, all of them! Ok i see about the interlock system, still i think its harder because its easier to just put one part, on top of the other. Maybe in the future ill appreciate it more, when i try to build a thin figure like your sailor moon one :D "If still doesn't work, use a hammer, free your rage, and go on to the next model. Sometimes destruction is good therapy and the best solution to finish difficult models" Hahahahaha words of wisdom :D I think you should put it as a signature :P I'll try to find white glue asap. Your castle is wonderful! Very nice model! and somewhat more happy version i think :D I consider them big for sure, they need a lot of time, cutting,folding,paper and glue but thats it i think, they dont seem very hard. I havent tried building it yet though. The glados model, your your sailor moon m model, or the girl with the penguins seem much harder to me, maybe faster but still harder. Ill search about the 3d models like you said. Eliot thank you very much :D Ill try the pencil thing and maybe ill buy some colored pencils too. (I have gray marker but its dark and doesnt work for this model at least). Its a very good idea because you can blend them as you say. I was considering buying some for 2d drawing but they are kind of expensive (cheap-normal colored pencils cost 2-3 euros per 24 where fabel castel polychromos, which is the only set i can find here costs 30 euros :/ ) I never considered colored pencils for color edging!s thanks again! Thank you all!
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