Need help with mini nuke paper model - Page 3

**Kevin WS** · #21 05-03-2018, 11:45 PM

Lex - I suspect that the properties of different PVAs may differ. I have little difficulty gluing with it.

However it is worth mentioning the following:

* I spray all my models before starting with matt varnish.
* When edge gluing I apply the glue, and then spread it with my fingertip to ensure it is evenly spread.
* I then allow to it dry fractionally (but it must still be moist) before placing the parts together - with slight pressure.
* Then I leave it well alone to to dry for an hour. Reinforcing with a fine bead of PVC along the joint can then be done if required - it well then be plenty strong!

Works for me!

**Lex** · #22 05-03-2018, 11:54 PM

I see... It's the need to hold the part together for an hour that is exactly the issue with PVA. If there are ways to fix the part during the process (clamps or a drop of CA), then PVA is a valid choice I guess. I use PVA mostly, but rarely in the edge-glueing scenario.

**Kevin WS** · #23 05-04-2018, 12:16 AM

Lex, but as I said I think the glues may have different properties due to the brands.

I have used some white glue brands that did not work for me at all - they seemed maybe to have a high water content as they also caused wrinkles sometimes as well.

The current glue I use is cheap woodglue from the hardware shop. On its way to drying it actually becomes tacky and there is a window of about 30 seconds to do something.

I don't know if you get it in your part of the world - here it is called Alcolin.

I also don't apply straight from the bottle - I put a blob on scrap card and then use a dental probe. For a thicker and tackier consistency I leave it for 5 minutes or more before applying.

**toudi sk** · #24 05-04-2018, 01:51 AM

Fallout 3 Mininuke

**Lex** · #25 05-04-2018, 05:58 AM

Wood glue as in coming in big round containers larger than a tin can? I probably used them quite a while ago, and had very good experience with that. I eventually dropped it in favour of convenience though... Maybe I need to stop being lazy for best effect

**airdave** · #26 05-04-2018, 07:01 AM

Some woodworkers use Contact Cements.
Thats not the wood glue he is talking about.
(I did actually use contact cement for paper modeling at one point.
But it requires a very special technique of applying glue to both surfaces, allowing it to dry, then carefully aligning the parts and then joining them. Instant bond!)

As Kevin says, there are all kinds of PVA glue.
Standard white glues for paper are a bit thin, a bit watery, a bit slow to dry.
They are designed more for easier cleanup.
I would avoid this type of glue because it is often too watery and can cause a lot of problems.

PVA glue does not require an hour to bond.
What Kevin is saying is you need to have some patience and allow parts to securely bond before expecting them to stay permanently in place.

Try a "Craft" PVA Glue.
Many of us here use Aleenes Tacky Glue.
Aleenes has a whole line of "craft" glues.
Craft glues are thicker...tacky (grabby and sticky)...and dry a bit quicker.

If you can't find it (or something similar) in stores then look to amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleenes-Pre...s=aileens+glue

I can use a toothpick, apply a micro bead of Aleenes to the edge of a paper part...
place the part and hold for about 10 seconds...
and its done! I can then move on to the next part.
(An hour of bonding will just help the strength of the bond)

....
I am aware that many modellers prefer the "turbo tacky" glue...or the "quick dry" or the "quick grab" versions.
But I suggest starting with the regular gold bottle Aleenes.
Later, you can try the other versions, once you have gotten used to the properties of the standard Tacky Glue.

I still have old bottles of the fast grab, turbo and quick dry glues...I also have the clear Aileenes.
Personally, I keep coming back to the regular stuff...I just adjust my technique depending on what I need from the glue.

**Kevin WS** · #27 05-04-2018, 05:40 PM

Dave - thanks. It is the regular stuff that is the key probably. I tried the local and imported craft PVAs and they were #&!! ‰&!

--------------

Lex - you can get the glue in small quantities. And I looked for you - the glue I am talking about is available in the UK.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alcolin-500.../dp/B075WY4QF3

That's the exact glue I use.

It is available here in 125 and 500ml. I use the 125ml which lasts me two to three years.

If you can only buy the larger, decant it.

If you decide to buy some, PM me and I will explain the different ways I work with it when building.