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Old 08-27-2020, 03:22 PM
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Damraska Damraska is offline
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What spray are you currently using to seal your card models?

Hey. I am back after another long break to build some card models.

Earlier this week I tried using Krylon UV Resistant Crystal Clear Matte Spray to seal a Halinski P-40 Warhawk. Two months back, I used a different can of the same product on an OV-10 Bronco. In both cases the spray frosted badly, ruining the model. I live in very hot, very dry California so the problem resides inside the can. Years ago, I used this product regularly with great success so I presume the formulation changed and I need to find something new.

If you live in the United States, what Matte or Satin spray coat are you currently using to seal your card models? I am looking for current suggestions, please, not stuff you used two or more years ago.

Have you tried Rust-oleum? Lacquers typically dry very quickly but Amazon says it takes a week to cure which sounds ... wrong.

Has anyone recently tried Krylon Clear Acrylic Satin spray? I am wondering if they 'bumped' the amount of flattening agent in their mixtures. If so, Satin may produce a good result now.

Anyway, thank you in advance for your reply. I can mix my own clear coat and run it through an airbrush but would prefer something quicker and easier.

Also, I highly suggest changing the name of this forum to Advice and making it the very first forum in the Card Models section. Every modern craft and game forum has an Advice section for asking question. Also, also, I would change the description to something like, "Post all your card modeling questions, novice or advanced, here." Get rid of the "First Cuts" and 'Rookie" nonsense.
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Old 08-28-2020, 06:34 AM
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rockpaperscissor rockpaperscissor is offline
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I use Krylon exclusively. Usually clear satin, but I've used clear matte as well without any major problems. The can must really be shaken well, particularly the clear matte so that the powder which gives the matte affect is well dispersed in the solvent/carrier. When you think you've shaken it enough, shake it some more. You are more likely to get a haze as the can becomes empty - probably because of a greater concentration of powder in the remaining solvent/carrrier. Multiple light coats will minimize the risk of hazing. To clear the nozzle, always invert the can and give a few short spritzes to clear after every use.
Regards, Don
I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends.
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Old 08-28-2020, 07:10 AM
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bpgeygolpher bpgeygolpher is offline
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I encounter frosting using the Rust-oleum American Accents Clear. It occurs with the Matte, Gloss, and Semi Gloss. It is always an environmental issue for me. It is very hot and humid where I live. Humidity seems to be the major problem. I only have success when the humidity is between 50 and 70 percent. I have had frosting using just about any clear lacquer, regardless of the manufacturer.

Rust-oleum dries to the touch in 20 minutes and can be handled in 1 hour and is completely dry in 24 hours according to the can. To be honest, I handle it immediately and leave it in the garage overnight to dry, mainly because of the odor.

When I get frosting I let it dry completely (at least 24 hours) then re-apply when conditions are more suitable. Sometimes it works and other times I have to start all over again. That is why I scan everything.

Good luck
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Old 08-28-2020, 07:20 AM
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Butelczynski Butelczynski is offline
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both Krylon and Rustoleum semi gloss work for me.Key is spraying closer to paper,in thin layers and wait 24 hours between coats.Half the time I don't even bother with spraying anyway-new laser jet printer I use does fantastic job.
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Old 08-28-2020, 12:52 PM
Burning Beard Burning Beard is offline
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I have stopped spraying before construction also. I have an HP inkjet, and I think they have really improved the quality of the ink over the last few years. I haven't had any bleeding of colors when the paper is a little wet for a long time.

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Old 08-28-2020, 08:45 PM
smithdr smithdr is offline
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I use Krylon clear as well. I use it since it seems to be easier to remove glue blobs if I make a "slight" error. Ask me how I know!

I too have also just left it alone after printing and had no issues...Dan
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:16 AM
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Damraska Damraska is offline
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Thank you very much for the replies.

I went ahead and ordered various cans of Krylon and Rust-oleum along with more repair parts for my air compressor. Hopefully, something works!

In the past, I only encountered frosting during winter months on very humid days. However, it now occurs to me that the room where I store unbuilt card models gets unusually humid. It lies on the cool side of the house and the door remains closed accept for the rare occasions when I hobble downstairs to get something. Perhaps the card stock is retaining moisture and the clear coat sealed it in, causing the frosting. I shook the cans for a quite a while before spraying but perhaps that was also insufficient.

Over the years, I have tried various methods of sealing--different products, sealing before construction, sealing after construction, sealing before and after construction, and not sealing at all. Sealed models definitely aged better so I am inclined to clear coat all future models.
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:47 AM
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rickstef rickstef is online now
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Gil has mentioned in the past that he warms the rattle can in warm water, to help the lacquer/varnish to flow better
"Rock is Dead, Long Live Paper and Scissors"
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Old 08-30-2020, 09:16 AM
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nebeltex nebeltex is offline
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Testors Dullcote. More expensive, better results. Not so bad for smaller models.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:39 PM
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davelant davelant is offline
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I am returning to building after a long interval, and I forgot what I used, but I found old bottles of Krylon Matte Finish (1311) in my stash and that seems to be the stuff. Per an earlier comment about not spraying anymore because of better inks, I spray mainly to protect the inks from the oils on my fingers; I suspect all inks based on soybean oil may be susceptible to that kind of smearing. And I like the texture it gives to the surface. I also tried Krylon Workable Fixatif (1306), but I think that's more for protecting art marked with dry, particulate materials (graphite, pastels, etc.)
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