Folds cracking questions?

[Hunterdude]

Quite new to paper models and having fun. I have been using large sewing needles tipped up perhaps 30 degrees from horizontal for scoring, this angle prevents the point from scratching the ink, but I do get some surface cracking right on the fold line when I fold. These cracks do not go thru the paper but the surface skin seems to separate from being stretched revealing a white crack that I have to paint with marker.
I am wondering if there is a better tool or way to score?
Also I am using semi glossy 100# card stock on my current project, would a dull mat cardstock crack less?
Or any other tips to reduce or eliminate cracks would be greatly appreciated!

[Texman]

Well, I use an old blade that I sanded down to a round edge. I score just enough to see
the score line. Then, on the reverse side, using a Qtip, I apply some 93% isopropyl alcohol to the non printed side. This helps soften the paper without ruining the print.
I use an epson printer, and it takes alot of alcohol to ruin the print.
Depending on the size of the fold, and whether or not it needs to be slightly rounded, I use a variety of sized of knitting needles to roll the part.

Hope this helps. YMMV.

[Kevin WS]

Like Ray I also use an old blade sanded down.

Before making models I also spray them with a matt varnish (out of an aerosol can). This helps a lot to prevent splitting.

I also touch up with watercolours (paints or pencils) and the varnish protects the finish and allows one to wipe off any excess. After the model is finished I also give it a final spray to fix the watercolours and protect it.

[rickstef]

What kind of printer are you using?
Laser or Inkjet?

If you are using a Laser printer, and running your paper through it, you will need to adjust the fusing temperature, there usually is a thick stock or paper setting, start bumping that up to have the printer take its time to fuse the toner to the paper.

As for inkjet, and as Kevin mentioned, spraying the printed sheets with a matte sealant will help set the ink and in a manner plasticize the top paper fibers.

[Hunterdude]

Thanks for the advice!
I am currently hire my printing at a shop and the laser prints pretty fast, maybe I can talk with them about my needs and get them to adjust?
I do like the sound of alcohol soaked q-tip from back side to soften paper, I will give that a try.
Also I am score pretty deep, maybe I need to back off a little?

[Kevin WS]

Maybe back off.

Why not just practise on scrap paper or card? That will soon give you a feel as to how to approach scoring different thicknesses...

[Thumb Dog]

Hi All,

And hi, Hunterdude. I have only a limited experience with laser printed paper models, but I appreciate your problem. I think of it this way…an inkjet printer puts the color into the paper, white a laser printer puts the color on the paper. The bond between the color and paper is noticeably less in a laser printed page. It’s similar to the difference between welding and soldering a joint in metal.

I hadn’t heard of the isopropyl method before and it sounds like it’s worth a try. Also, you mentioned you are using semi glossy cardstock for your project. Maybe a less glossy, more open cardstock, something with a bit more “tooth” might help.

Best of luck in your model.

Score and fold,

Thumb Dog

[Hunterdude]

Update:
I really love this paper steam engine I am building, and I now believe laser printing may not be the best, but I want to salvage this build so tonight I made some test folds with the alcohol. I had 3 identical spare parts with laser printing.

-The far right was dry fold with the heavy score I had been using.

-center is heavy score but alcohol treated.

-far left part I used only 25% of score force and alcohol, there is only 2 Tiny dots of white near center so it is nearly a perfect fold. I am Very pleased with these results and I am sure my technique will improve.
Many thanks to all who participated! I am Greatful you took time from your day to help the new guy get better!

[danzam]

Hi - I used to use old empty fine pan to go over the banding line. it's working really good, the problem is that it's not so fine. so, I find out that nails doting tool (that my daughter keep steeling from me ) fine one do great job, the tool is coming with double head in 2 sizes, the small one for marking normal line and the bigger I use to mark lines that need light banding like aircrafts wings. you can find this tool in the cosmetics store (the nails section is great place to find tools for paper modeling) or Aliexpress /E bay ATC'