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Old 05-04-2010, 08:48 PM
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bagpiper bagpiper is offline
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Covering up fold lines and edges

Hi team
I have a specific question in regards to covering up the fold lines and paper edges with either markers, pencils, felt tipped pens and so on.

I have tried using black felt tipped pens which are great but I would like to have more of a matching colour than just black on all the folds and edges. I have also used water soluble graphite pencils in three shades which I really like. This was suggested to me by Sakrison. However it produces a shiny edge and if you overlap (by mistake) you get a shiny pencil line that you may not be able to rub out. Also unless you put it on thick it is transparent - you also can bend the edge of the paper if you press too hard with the pencil.

My question is what to use to cover up folds and edges. And any pros and cons other than those I have mentioned. The first image of the tower base uses the graphite pencil and while it covers the white it is too transparent. The top of the tower I used black marker pen but it produces a shine.

I am still experimenting and any pointers appreciated

Many thanks

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Covering up fold lines and edges-dsc01283.jpg   Covering up fold lines and edges-dsc01284.jpg  
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:27 PM
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B-Manic B-Manic is offline
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I don't usually build models that have those dashed or dotted fold lines printed on them.

I do use Faber-Castell's Pitt Artist Pens (brush tip) for edge coloring. They use colored india ink and come in a great variety of shades. As for line coloring I guess you could use their fine tip pens and a straight edge for that before folding.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:38 PM
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Retired_for_now Retired_for_now is offline
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I don't fiddle with lines in the middle of surfaces (I try not to put them on my designs).
For edges, I just try to tone them down. If I have a lighter, close color match I'll use that on an edge (simple water-based markers), for black parts I'll use a black Sharpie, for everything else just a soft pencil in 25, 50, or 75% gray shade (craft store item).
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:45 PM
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spgifford spgifford is offline
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I'm still experimenting for this but lately I have been using a set of 50 Crayola markers that I picked up at Wal-Mart for about $6-$7. They are far from perfect but give enough colors to try and match colors. The markers do come with a relatively sharp point which helps. You do have to be careful of bleed through.

I am also thinking of trying the inexpensive acrylic paints you can pick up at art stores. There are enough colors to mix and match what you need and you can vary they consistency to suit your needs.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:19 PM
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Thomas Meek Thomas Meek is offline
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Same as B-Manic: Faber - Castell PITT artist pens, the ones with the brush tips. The brushes are trimmed to a very well behaved fine point, which you will appreciate.

They come in a variety of colors, you can spend a lot of money on a set with many colors or get them six at a time. I started with a Black (which can be purchased separately) and the "Landscape" set, which was good for most applications. The colors don't have to match exactly. I have added some more colors since, but those are still the ones I use the most.

I like the PITT pens because they do not bleed very much, if at all. (I have ruined some otherwise very nice models by using edge coloring that did not stay on the edges.) And also because most of the colors seem to get a little lighter when they dry. That way if you want it a little darker you can make another pass.

They are a bit pricey, but I think they are worth it. It will take a long time to use them up and they have made a big difference in the quality of work I am able to turn out.

I learned about them from Red Horse when I asked him how he got such nice edges on one of his fine builds that I was admiring. Thanks, Red Horse!

Also, if you have a model with dotted lines running accross the colored portions, you can sometimes open the file and use a graphics program like Gimp to make the dotted lines go away. It can be tedious but it works.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:47 PM
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Jim Nunn Jim Nunn is offline
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Let us think a little out of the box on this we all came from a plastic models and we when it comes to paint we think Acrylics, enamels and such. But we are working with paper and to me the nearly perfect paint is water colors. Not the little color bricks that come in the $1.98 water color sets but the higher quality paste paint that you purchase in the little tubes. You do not need a 40 color set just Black, white. A couple of reds, a green or two Yellow and the two most important Burnt umber and Yellow Ochre. Michaels crafts will have a 12 color set on sale for around $10 every month or so or use one of their 40% off coupons. As with all model painting get the best brushes and take care of them.

What’s so good about water colors first and foremost you can mix an exact color match to the model and the finish is nearly identical to the printed surface of the model. Once you mix the colors and they dry out just add a little water and you are set to go. With an exact color match painting the crease lines that show white makes them disappear, for edges I color them before I glue up the part. Any glue on the edge of the part will tend to keep the water color from coloring the edge. If you do not match the color exactly and it is darker apply a thin wash of white to the mismatched color and it will blend in to the back ground. The figure painters in the group will recognize this technique.

Some hints for good results add a drop or two of liquid soap to the water this lowers the surface tension and the paint will spread better. Use as little water as possible for obvious reasons. When mixing colors do it on a sunny day out doors for the best match or use the new Compact Florescent lamps that have a color rating of 8500K or higher these lamps have a nearly pure white light (no yellow)

I know the first and the main objection will be, “You use WATER on your models!” this is not a problem as long as you use some common sense. I find that marking pens will bleed the color where you don’t what it and water color pencils do not easily color the edge.

But as I have said before give every thing a try and use what works best for you.

The attached photo is from my current build of the KW Models P-39 the amount of white that would show in the ribbing in the wing and dive brake is quite high. If you look closely there are several areas that need to be repainted and touched up but it is a work in progress. The inset are the throttles and it’s tough to paint the edges with a marking pen when the part is this small.

In the background you can see one of my color trays with the main colors used in this model.

Jim Nunn
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:34 AM
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Art Deco Art Deco is offline
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A very good question, and as you can see from the responses, there are a number of good solutions with different trade-offs.

I tried colored pencils, and liked them (especially the convenience), but once I tried common water-based acrylic paints, I never went back.

Pros and cons as I see them:

Benefits ... the greatest is the ability to match the ink colors so closely. Mixing colors is really not difficult, although anyone totally new to it might want to first get familiar with the "color wheel". Being able to mix colors allows you to go beyond edge coloring, you can touch up the graphics themselves (e.g. hiding scratches, adding wear/weathering).

Because you brush them on, acrylics can be applied very precisely, and without the danger of crumpling a paper edge. A brush can get into corners that are difficult to reach with pencils or markers.

You can vary the amount of water to control the application properties, as well as the transparency of the paint.

Acrylics have a matte finish. And once they are dry, they stay that way. Some kinds of watercolors can be re-activated if they get wet.

Drying time is very fast, like a minute.

Water-based, so no fumes or solvents, ... soap and water clean-up!

And finally ... they are cheap! I think you can probably pick up a basic set of tubes at the supermarket for under $10.

Downsides ... Painting takes a bit more time and effort than using pencils or markers. I usually plan my builds so that parts that need edge painting are ready in batches.

For small or delicate parts on light paper you may need to mind the water content your are adding to the paper. I model mostly in 200 gsm card, so it's not an issue for me, but it could be for others.
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Old 05-05-2010, 05:26 AM
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bagpiper bagpiper is offline
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Fantastic information troops. I have some wonderful ideas from each and every one of you to try out now. I had never thought of any of these. I love the idea Thomas about getting rid of the dotted lines as well. To me, the extra effort is worth it. I have more graphic applications than I know what to do with. Just had not thought about using them until you mentioned it. lol.

Thanks again to all of you for your wonderful ideas. At the moment the PITT pens appeals to my way of doing things and I will try that out first. But I will be trying out all of them to see what works best for me with quality and ease of use.

Really appreciate the support team.

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Old 05-05-2010, 05:55 AM
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SCEtoAUX SCEtoAUX is offline
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I use Prang brand colored pencils. You can use them dry or with a quick dip in water the color flows a bit easier. You can also blend them on the model part to get a closer match. The 36 color set.

I have also used artist's oil pastel sticks, but mostly the Prang pencils.

Try using one of those fingernail sandpaper files with the foam center to lightly sand away those dashed and dotted fold lines on parts with uniform or near uniform textures, then color the sanded line to match the surrounding texture. If you feel adventurous you could even try that on areas with busy textures. Some of those fold lines are so heavy that they detract from the overall look of the finished model, so some alteration is needed.
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Old 05-05-2010, 06:06 AM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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For edge coloring I use inexpensive acrylic craft paints... There are a bazillion different colors and at $0.49 per bottle they are affordable plus one will last forever.
They are easy to use...Shake up the bottle, unscrew the lid (dont even have to squeeze out any paint), dab the point of a toothpick into the paint and apply to the edge of the piece, screw lid back on and that's are all done and NO Brush required!

I have also used the Tamaya weathering kits (the pastel like kind with the foam applicator)...They also do a nice job especially when covering up those dashed lines or worn edges.
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