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  #11  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Orange View Post
I'm surprised, whenever I try to sand down the laminated card, I always end up with fuzzy edges. Most of the time the card actually peels away.
If you have seen some of my build threads, you will see that I laminated heavily and round the corners edges with my dremel, sand paper and fine file. As mentioned before, you have to sand gently. Another thing that I do, is that instead of spray adhesive, I laminate with white glue and spread out evenly with a brush, then I press the parts together until it has set. When dry, it is like sanding styrene sheets or soft balsa wood. The glue must be spread out evenly because if there is a gap, when you sand that part will lift up and then you will have to feather the edges. If there is any fussy left over that I find, I use a new blade and gently trim it off.
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:08 PM
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But doesn't the white glue sort of...make the paper warped or uneven? I've tried white glue for lamination and had some bad results. Would spray adhesive (I use 3M Gen. Purpose 45) not work the same way when sanding?

I'll try sanding again, but usually I just trim with my X-acto.
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Orange View Post
But doesn't the white glue sort of...make the paper warped or uneven? I've tried white glue for lamination and had some bad results. Would spray adhesive (I use 3M Gen. Purpose 45) not work the same way when sanding?

I'll try sanding again, but usually I just trim with my X-acto.
On very large surfaces it has a tendency to warp. Small parts I place inside one of my Big Books (Tome). and the pressure will help keep it flat. The glue dries hard and it almost returns the paper back to its original state of a wood thickness. It is the glue that helps in keeping the shape of the sanded surface.

Also when sanding or filing, start from the center and file or sand to the outside in order to avoid peeling the paper away. If you file to the outside you are putting pressure on the edge laminate and forcing it away from the center.
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:08 PM
y66 y66 is offline
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orange:
to prevent the fuzzy ends you can use liquid superglue (just on the edges).
the drawback is that sometimes it became hard to sand it.
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Old 07-11-2010, 06:50 AM
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Just like silveroxide describes, when I know I am going to be sanding and shaping a part, I will laminate with white glue, instead of my 3M spray adhesive.
And then its more like trying to shape and sand a plastic part.
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  #16  
Old 07-11-2010, 07:37 AM
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Also when sanding or filing, start from the center and file or sand to the outside in order to avoid peeling the paper away. If you file to the outside you are putting pressure on the edge laminate and forcing it away from the center.[/QUOTE]


I re read my last post and noticed my error, it should have read "start from from the outside and sand or file to the center.":o:o:o
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2010, 08:45 AM
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Thomas Meek Thomas Meek is offline
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Tazman3;

I'm with Jim Nunn on the card stock. For something I put as much time and effort into as a paper model, why skimp on the materials?

I use 110 lb Smooth Bristol. If I recall correctly, two sheets of that, plus one sheet of the 65 lb card stock I use for almost everything else comes out to just about 1 mm, perfect for fuselage formers and ship frames. Strathmore Smooth Bristol has all the qualities I like. A bit pricy, but a package lasts a long time.

For laminating, having tried everything I could think of, I now use glue sticks all the time, as the glue dries very similarly to white glue, but does not seem to cause warping.

As with cutting tools and paper stock, this is all a matter of personal choice and preference. What works beautifully for you may just make a big mess for me, and vice versa. What seems a perfectly sensible choice of materials to me may look like a big waste of money to you. The important part is what we end up with when the thing is finished.

(When laminating, it is not necessary to use a whole sheet, just big enough for the part. This saves a lot of paper and is much easier to handle, giving you time to work before the glue dries.)

Thomas
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  #18  
Old 07-11-2010, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomas Meek View Post
About a year ago I asked the same question. Among those who responded was shrike, who said:


Having done as he suggested and seen the quality of my builds increase noticeably, I pass it along to you. (All except the part about Fort Wayne. You might want to find a location closer to wherever you are.)

Thomas
Thanks, that sounds like a good place to start, and I have a Sallys right next to wallyworld here. Also, I think I'll see if I can get my dremel out of storage...I had actually thought of using it, but just didn't think it would do that good of a job...so we'll see.

Thanks everyone!
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2010, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Orange View Post
But doesn't the white glue sort of...make the paper warped or uneven? I've tried white glue for lamination and had some bad results. Would spray adhesive (I use 3M Gen. Purpose 45) not work the same way when sanding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by silveroxide View Post
On very large surfaces it has a tendency to warp. Small parts I place inside one of my Big Books (Tome). and the pressure will help keep it flat. The glue dries hard and it almost returns the paper back to its original state of a wood thickness. It is the glue that helps in keeping the shape of the sanded surface.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silveroxide View Post

Also when sanding or filing, start from the center and file or sand to the outside in order to avoid peeling the paper away. If you file to the outside you are putting pressure on the edge laminate and forcing it away from the center.
Orange,

I have tried several types of spray glue and I keep coming back to the 3M 77 spray glue (it’s a solvent based glue) Spray both of the card stock sheets that are to be glued. Cover completely but no need to put on a heavy coat give the glue a few minutes to set. Then press them together. I also let the sheets set in a press composed of two 3/8 in thick acrylic plastic sheets using small wood clamping tools to apply pressure. I then wait for a few days before I use the card stock. I also will use the 3M 77 glue when I laminate the printed kit formers to the card stock and put them in my press. They come out perfectly flat.

Silveroxide has it nailed for small parts and using white glue (water based glues). All I can add is a photo of my small part press, it is made from 3/8 acrylic plastic sheet a few machine screws and wing nuts, its been a very handy device on my work table.

Experiment a little you will find what works best for you in the end that is what counts.

Jim Nunn
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Shaping formers and other thick pieces...-paper-press.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2010, 09:36 AM
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tazman3 tazman3 is offline
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Something Jim mentioned brings up a question that I never had considered before now...are the formers designed to be 1mm...with the printed part then added on to that thickness...or should the part be 1mm total when glued up? Or am I making things waaaay to hard...

I saw somewhere that a suggestion was made to always check the width of the slots in the other formers...then make them to that width...sounds plausible.
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