Shaping formers and other thick pieces... - Page 4

**rbeach84** · #31 07-16-2010, 11:59 AM

BigBenn, might I ask from where do you hail?

RE: taking pictures, I suppose the single biggest 'secret' is to use the camera's 'macro' setting (aften depicted with a flower icon - because you've got to get close to take a picture of a bug on a flower??

) This will usually allow for the auto-focus to work "up close" - though the depth of in-focus field may still be a bit restricted (nothing beats a pin-hole camera for depth of field!) Nice thing is that you can't waste a digital image, so learning the camera is a much faster proposition. If you are like me, a mini-tripod or a mono-pod (unipod?) is a handy accessory. The minipod I have has telescoping legs, that at minimum extension are only about 7-8 inches long and fit on a tabletop easily. The legs also, when closed, are small enough to act as a 'broom handle' grip so I can brace my arm against my chest. Probably one of my best choices for camera accessories.

I've also found that, if the camera allows, disabling the flash can provide better detail and wider depth of field - but usually requires greater care to prevent 'wiggle' because of the consequently slower shutter speed. If you look at my images on the Junkers BETA build, you can see the effects from flash & no-flash settings.

Anyway, back to the primary topic!

Good quality thick stock is obviously a requirement - I hadn't thought of checking with my local printing shop. A couple of members of my local model club work in the print industry, so I will pump them for information.

Something not yet mentioned is 'foam core' board. I've used foam core board (straight from Wally-mart), but it is mostly suitable for larger parts, not usually useful for smaller models like aircraft fuselages. Works well for buildings (I made a scale model of a home renovation design using it, works out to a scale 8" thickness at 1:48.) I can see it would be useful for ship hull frameworks and I plan on using it for my 1:48 Saturn V model - it provides a lot of strength and is lightweight. The foam is easy to cut, though a sharp blade is essential to prevent tearing. It also sands pretty well if needed.

**SCEtoAUX** · #32 07-16-2010, 12:29 PM

Check out framing shops and hobby stores that do framing for any matte board they might throw out when they cut the matte for framing pictures. A lot of those places will let you have the cast offs for free. It saves them from having to throw the stuff in the dumpster.

Try using the self timer function on the camera when taking pictures without the flash. Once you have the focus, exposure, and shutter speed set up for the picture the self timer function will help eliminate or reduce the wiggle. It helps if the tripod being used is a good one that is steady.

**ashevilleangler** · #33 07-16-2010, 12:30 PM

Richard, forget pics of cardmodels! I want to see your build a full 1/1 scale wooden boat. With your skills,... now that would be a thing of beauty!

Curt

**bigbenn** · #34 07-17-2010, 09:43 AM

Hi Guys,
Well I'm in Aussie - Ossie, Ossie Ossie, Yeah, Yeah, Yeah and the sea and beaches are only a few minutes away by car - white sand beaches, clear. clear seas and in summer gloriously hot and literally t-shirt and shorts weather, so a boat would be a good idea if I were a sailor, which I'm not. It is currently our winter, but the days are warm and the nights are cold.
The digital camera I have is an anti shake model with zoom lens and the whole bit. The problem is that I have never been much of a photographer and I seem over the years to have gotten worse at it.
Norfolk VA is probably as far away from me as you could get without coming closer, no matter which direction you take - where is VA?
I know it's a small thing, but if you are building card models in paper and card, where does foam board come into it..LOL (just joking).
Richard (BigBenn)

**Maltedfalcon** · #35 07-17-2010, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccoyle

I will second a couple of the suggestions made previously. I, too, use a rotary tool (Dremel) with a sanding disk, which works a treat. If necessary, I will also wick fast-cure CA glue into the part to be sanded -- stiffens the edge to prevent fraying or bending.

Cheers!

ccoyle!
Thanks for this I have been thinking about doing exactly this.
I will try it.

**rbeach84** · #36 07-18-2010, 09:30 PM

Richard, hey there! Sounds lovely, we're sweltering a bit here on the Chesapeake Bay. Norfolk is right at the 'mouth' of the Bay, Eastern coast of North America...

RE: foamboard, using it sort of like including steel in your basic wood-frame house - good for strengthening. It glues well also, having a paper-facing both sides, and the foam likes PVA glues, too. Like 'they say'... any good tool looks good in your toolbox.

RE: Anti-shake cameras, I'm not a fan of gizmos normally, but 'auto-stabilization' was a great idea - glad they did it, it really helps when pushing the shutter speed down so to use ambient light. Well, now the cat's escaped, hope to see some pix from your workbench in the future!

Cheers!

**bigbenn** · #37 07-19-2010, 07:33 AM

Hi Robert,
Thanks for your reply - sounds nice where you are too, do you go swimming or anything like that there?
VA - you've got me there. What State is that?
Yes, I will take some pix of my models and workbench as I go along. The hardest thing for me (daft though it sounds) is to take the pix in the first place. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!!
I believe in using anything from around the home in making my models, if the part fits and I get the effect I'm looking for. I have even used twigs and branches (straight) from trees to make masts and cross pieces, wrapped in paper of course.
A card model is like a building. What the person who sees my completed model gets to see is the end result, the wallpapered painted model, not the construction process to create that final effect.
Richard