New Model By ModelArt - DAR-21 (1/32)

[zachy]

Hey, Guys. I don't buy expensive glossy paper. Instead I buy regular card stock, (Inkjet printers love it) and I spray it after printing with clear gloss paint(Krylon). Very cheap and it makes the model easier to clean excess glue from, water proof, and after the models' built I spray a coat to seal everything.

[willygoat]

Originally Posted by zachy

. Very cheap and it makes the model easier to clean excess glue from, water proof, and after the models' built I spray a coat to seal everything.

What do you do for clear windows/canopies? Does the spray cause runs or just go on even? The spray sounds much easier and cheaper than spending $30 on a somewhat small pack of photo paper.

[mgolovanov]

I ought to note that for models of aircraft, the model above included, I usually use both glossy paper AND acrylic clear varhish:



Glossy paper is quite even by nature, and acrylic clear varhish when applied properly (not too much, not too little) gets absorbed well and preserves it's even surface making it stronger and well resembling painted surfaces of most airplanes.

Ordinary paper (most of typographically printed kits, card / brystol stock etc) is not good for lamination up to glossy surface - it's surface is not even by nature, and excessive laminating with clear varhish accentuates this instead of evening - unless you apply more and more which is also not appropriate. This paper, however, may (and should) also be laminated - so that the paper absorbes small amounts of lacquer entirely and does not get sparkling. I did this when building Hurricane night fighter - the prototype was painted matt black, and properly laminated sheets of original kit produced adequate results.

[zachy]

Sorry Guys, I didn't mean to step on any toes. I just don't like photo paper with inkjet. Works great with a laser printer though. Most of the kits I build are digital and I print them with an inkjet printer. I use 110 pound cardstock, 22 pound printer paper as bright as I can find, and clear acrylic paint in three fine coats allowed to dry between coatings. I use Harrermill transparencies for the glass and seal it with two coats of acrylic. I haven't had any runs or problems yet. Hoping not to. The preprinted models I've built have been mostly malymodelart and are never anything to brag about. I still seal them with acrylic though and they do seam to last. I have a Spad 51 from I think 1961 that the green color has faded to blue but it's still intact. I'll take a picture of it tonight and post it.