#101
|
|||
|
|||
I use my X-acto blade to score bond paper. I don't use the dull edge of the blade, but the blade itself (I'm too lazy to turn the blade over). It takes a light touch.
The first draft of the instructions only had 1 page of tips and techniques. It is now expanding to 2-3. There are also tips and techniques spread out within the assembly instructions, so that's why there was initially only 1 page. One thing I do not skimp on are photos and instructions. I did get praise for that.
__________________
- Robert Nava |
#102
|
|||
|
|||
Meantime, the website is still showing coming soon expected in February 2012...
|
#103
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I've responded to the test-builders' feedback, and it appears that we're pretty much in agreement with each others' recommendations. I've gotten a green light to make the changes, which will be the final revision. I must say that the introductory instructions alone have greatly improved, going from 1 page to 4. I had already completed 90% of it before reading the PDF files that you guys recommended. I really liked Jerry Jensen's Paper Modeling Guide, and pretty much had the same information already typed up. There were things that sparked a couple of minor additions to my own text. I need to get my hands on a couple of glues that I want to try (Scotch scrapbooking glue and Aleene's original tacky glue). I like the diagrams of the Red Baron model, but I think that may be overkill. Plus, no one really knows exactly what the San Salvador looks like. No plans, blueprints, or images have survived. There are only descriptions.
__________________
- Robert Nava |
#104
|
|||
|
|||
I was up late, trying to find something to watch. I couldn't find anything except Huell Howser's show, "California's Gold." I enjoy his shows, so I decided to check out the episode. Surprise, surprise, it was about the San Salvador replica being built at the Maritime Museum. I quickly recorded it on my DVR. I can see why the museum is so proud of this project.
__________________
- Robert Nava |
#105
|
|||
|
|||
For those of you who use colored permanent markers to edge your models, is there a risk of color bleeding/running when you apply high-moisture-content glue?
__________________
- Robert Nava |
Google Adsense |
#106
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
http://shop.jemacstamps.com.au/epage...Shops/shsh6239 |
#107
|
||||
|
||||
Dear Robert:
Iedge color with watercolor pencils and use Aleens thick glue and do not get bleeding. Note I mostly let the edge dry before glueing. Looking forward to trying this ship. Thanks, MILES |
#108
|
||||
|
||||
Once you try Aleene's you'll never go back to another white glue (read: Elmer's) again. The best description I've ever heard of it was: "It's like Elmer's for adults".
__________________
Put on hold build (someday I'll finish): F-35A Lightning II 1:72 Previous builds: cMags' Card Model Builds |
#109
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
meantime elmers works fine anyway... |
#110
|
|||
|
|||
I don't edge my models. I use such thin paper that it's not a problem (to me), and I like to show the fact that they're made of paper. It blows people's minds when they see what can be done.
An adult version of Elmer's? Which one is that? I've been using the Glue-All Multi-purpose glue with the "new stronger formula."
__________________
- Robert Nava |
Google Adsense |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|