#31
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Quote:
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Carborundum Illegitimi Ne Herky |
#32
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Some white glues brands will do that.I think Elmers does but I found then when dry Elmers glue cracks.I had to mix it with my favorite glue-LePage Carpenters glue to get desired result.
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#33
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For several years now I have exclusively used "Office Supplies" white glue. I buy it at a local Ocean State Job Lot store, but I'd be willing to bet that Big Lot and other clearance type stores carry it also. It's cheap - $1 for a generous 250 gram bottle. I just bought two bottles yesterday, in fact. It dries clear and almost matte, so any errant glue is less obvious - I frequently paint a bead of it along over lapping joint seams, and you'd never know it's there. It's made in China, so even though it says it's non-toxic...well, they said the same thing about their dog treats.
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Regards, Don I don't always build models, but when I do... I prefer paper. Keep your scissors sharp, my friends. |
#34
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Gorilla Glue has some dries white glue. Never used it myself, though, so do not know what the final look is.
I sometimes scrape some pigment off of a colored pencil and mix some Aleene's glue with it to get a colored filler.
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~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#35
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Use normal PVA Glue...likes Elmers white glue.
Mix water based acrylic white paint into it. It will dry milky white.
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#36
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Brilliant!
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#37
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Recently read somewhere (brain still foggy) that outside of the US there is a solvent based (no water to wrinkle) paper safe glue. Dang regulations will bring in poison dog treats [Don] but keep useful adhesives out. grrr
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#38
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For large surfaces I always use rubber cement with a tracing paper slip sheet. My experience? In 1967 I began a five year occupation as a "cardboard construction artist"' which was the design and construction of "point-of-purchase" displays before plastics took over. I understand there were about fifty of us in this profession in the USA. I mention this as my familiarity of rubber cement. We used "Best Test" rubber cement thinned with benzine by the gallons. In fact you may say we literally bathed (bad, bad) in the stuff. With government restrictions as they are today one would have to use rubber cement thinner and not benzine. Anyway this is a long way of my saying I would never consider adhering any surfaces together with anything else. One necessary accessory is a rubber cement pick-up, available from a decent art store, for clean up, being careful not to rub on printed areas. Hey...over 60 years of experience.
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AKA Richard's latest build: 1/Arquitectura Popular Manchega /Venta (Diputacioeión de Albacete) |
#39
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Oops, I meant 1957, not 1967.
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AKA Richard's latest build: 1/Arquitectura Popular Manchega /Venta (Diputacioeión de Albacete) |
#40
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Scotch Clear Glue with 2-way applicator
I was in Office Depot (in the US) a couple of weeks ago and found this Scotch clear glue. It's in a squeeze bottle with a (sort of) fine tip applicator on one end, and a sponge applicator (for surfaces) on the other end. It was only 5 bucks so thought I would try it. Not sure what it's composition is, but seems like a clear PVA, but a bit different in a way I don't think I can articulate. It's odorless and not messy or stringy.
I've used Aileen's for years, but have never been 100% satisfied with it. Earlier this year I Amazoned the Uhu that gets rave reviews. I printed off a few different e-models and test built some different types of assemblies with it, but never warmed up to it. Maybe I was using it wrong. I did the same kind of testing with this Scotch glue, and was actually pleasantly surprised. I found it easy to work with. It dries quickly, but not so quick that there's no time to adjust or re-position. A little goes a long way. The fine(ish) tip applicator works pretty well. Sometimes I'm able to use it to run the right size bead; other times I get a drop place at one end and then use a needle to spread the glue where I need it to be. So far the sponge applicator on the other end is working well for laminating parts. The main thing I've learned is to keep an eye on the air bubble in the the tube, and let it drift towards the top before you start the squeeze, otherwise you run the risk of getting a "sploosh" effect (like from a squeezable mustard bottle). After testing on some throw-aways, I started a "for keeps" (hopefully) project over the weekend with this glue and so far so good. I stick with Aileen's on other in-progress projects because I don't think switching adhesives midway through is a good idea. And I obviously can't speak to the long term effectiveness of this Scotch glue yet. But so far I like it. Your mileage my vary, of course.
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