#11
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Don,
I'm not sure from the photo, but I think you may have missed a fold. The bed is recessed by scoring along the two lines along each side so that the two sides that say "AFFIX TOOL BOX HERE" can be raised above the striped area of the bed. Then you use the flaps to glue them in place. I hope this make sense. I built the model when it first came out, and I'm trying to remember how I did it. Garland |
#12
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Hi Ray. It does look large. The info provided with the kit sez it is 1/48, but I have not measured it yet. My intention is to build a series of models in 1/48 (vide the T1E1 currently under construction, which is actually 1/50.5 because I printed it out on U.S. 8.5x11-inch paper. But I have since printed out copies on A4 that are actually 1/48 and hope to build the rest of the series in that scale. I also plan to ask Roman if he can enlarge the Ford 3-ton to 1/48. If I can find an 1/48 American-style Renault FT-17 (6-ton) and a 1/48 Mk.VIII International, I will have the three tanks that were in U.S. service prior to the developments representated in part by Alberto's tanks.
Sorry. I got carried away. I'll get back to you on that scale thing. [Added later: It does seem to be 1/48. The dimensions I have for this vehicle are 16 feet long and 6 feet wide, which would be 4 inches by 1.5 inches in 1/48 and the model is exactly 4 inches long and 1.5 inches wide.] Of course, for a man who builds in 1/144, EVERYTHING looks big. Garland -- What you say makes sense and I will have to consider it carefully. I'm not sure I can put in the creases and raise the mudguards on this model, but will try it on the next one. How about those two little flaps at the end of the lower hull? What do they attach to? Don |
#13
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#14
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I certainly did find it useful. There is a lot of information in your build review that will stand me in good stead in the next Lanchester build and also in future military vehicle projects. A couple of the methods you used have occured to me, but many others were new and good ideas. I printed the entire article out for careful reading and study as I work on the next version. Many thanks!
Don |
#15
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I get the "Lack of Situational Awareness" award for the day. J A Golden's excellent article on building an upscaled FG Lanchester armored car was turned into a tutorial and Chip sends it out along with the kit. I had it in my files all along. Anyway, better late than never and I think I will incorporate a few of his ideas into this test build.
Lots of good stuff at the TinPaper site. Don |
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#16
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Don, glad you found the page useful.
The tabs on the chassis at the rear can be cut off. To attach the rear of the fenders (where they fold down) use the tabs on them. Seems there might be a mistake and too many tabs. Joe |
#17
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Joe -
Many thanks for your information, which was very helpful. With the aid of two metal rulers clamped together, I managed to score the sides of the cargo bed per your and Garland's advice (Photo 1) and to fold up and glue the bed in place. I cut off the excess tabs. Photo 2 shows the model alongside the little Renault FT 17 and an Australian WWI infantryman in honor of Charlie C. Photo 3: The model is completed except for the headlamps, which are under construction (along with a New South Wales naval infantryman, also under construction). Don |
#18
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Great job on both of these models! I'd love to see Fiddlers do a couple of more Armored Cars or such.
After the T1E1, what's next |
#19
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RE: Photo 3.
Don, I did this one in diorama several months ago. They are hinged mud flaps. The photos I've seen have them mounted or unmounted. Lep
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"TANSTAAFL" - "There ain't no such thing as a free lunch!" Lazarus Long AKA Robert A. Heinlein |
#20
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Another great build, Don. I like this little armored car. Thank you for sharing.
Jeff |
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