Modelik DUILIO

[B-Manic]

Modelik 16/07
DUILIO
Designed by K.Wolbek & P.Czarnojan

ITALIAN ARMOURED CRUISER FROM 1876

• Number of pages: 11 x A3
• Assembly diagrams: 6 x A3
• Difficulty level (1-very simple, 5-very complicated): 4
• Model design method: CAD
• Length of completed model: 556 mm
• Scale: 1:200

This looks like a very nice model with bright, even colours and clean clearly defined lines. The instructions are not in English however, there are an extremely large number of highly detailed assembly drawings.

I believe this is a digital redraw of the 1998 'Model Fan' release.

I will start a build thread when I figure out how to scan the A3 pages.

[boosed]

I'm glad to see that you are going to build this historic and unusual ship. Should be a very interesting build thread.

Don

[chapuzas100]

I hope you can soon begin construction of the model. In a boat very interesting and can be much detail.

Regards

[SergeyV]

It would really be great to see on this construction tread. I also want to make this model (Duilio is one of my favourite ships) but have only early variant from Model Fan 1998 and don't know if it woth making.

Sergey

[B-Manic]

I built the egg crate hull interior. It did not turn out very well. A lot of warping occured. I made it out of lamintated cardstock and Lepages spray adhesive. Even though I let it dry for 48 hours I believe the glue was not completely set. There was also some delamination.

The Lepages was slightly cheaper than 3M but obviously not worth it. I bought the Lepages not because it was cheaper but because I was told it was not as noxious smelling. This is true but otherwise I was dissapointed with it.

I am going to try again in a week or two. I need to get some more card stock and some 3M adhesive spray. I may hit the art supply stores and see what they have that is suitable for the egg crate construction. I saw a post recently where someone was using some sort of Letraset art board perhaps I'll try that.

I also like this ship. In addition to the huge guns it has a very distinctive look. The model has a good level of detail but other than the hull does not look that difficult to build.

~Cheers

Douglas

[bigbenn]

Hi,
Some years ago, I built a greatly enlarged scale model of that ship, which I have in my home now. I build models for static display and for radio control, not that I ever play with them. I build an upper hull and lower hull keel and cross sections in 4mm card, then I sheet with thin card and build up the hull strength of the model by glueing 2mm card internally to the hull (which I have redesigned to come apart at the waterline, where the join is hidden).
I make the deck of the upper hull out of 4mm card and remove 4mm from the upper deck cross sections, to keep the hull to scale, then when I glue the deck to it, the deck has the strength to support the superstructure, which I also strengthen internally, before assembly, like the hull.
I build in black and white photocopy enlarged sheets. I paint all parts by hand with water based household paint. I skim the lightly painted decks with a coat of PVA glue, which when dry stops me from leaving marks on the print and which I can wipe off. I build the railings by hand on a cardboard form I create, I use tooth floss for the railings and rigging and I PVA glue this with weights to get long lengths, which I paint in black, before cutting and assembling and I crew my model with "men" to scale and created out of simple card drawings, which I build up with PVA glue to get a 3D effect, then I paint for a realistic result.
My models have doors, portholes, rivets, all guns turn on nylon bearings and I super detail with whatever is to hand. Masts are paint brush handles with a paper sheet glued around the outside to scale and left to dry, masts can be twigs from trees, again wrapped in paper to scale.
I live in a country with a desert climate, hot and cold and humidity. If I built models as they are designed and which you build, within days, they would bend and twist like bananas, so I have designed a construction technique which makes much stronger models and models which I can make into radio control and play with after varnishing the completed models inside and out checking for leaks which I plug up with PVA glue, allow to dry and revarnish and test again until watertight. Prop shafts can be bought from some model shops and it is a simple task to drill a hole in the stern, during construction, to put these in the model, through the bulkheads, with card supports........
I must take pix with my new camera and post them here of my warship models - lazy person, that I am!!!!
BigBenn