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  #21  
Old 12-16-2010, 08:50 AM
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very cool mike! I cant wait to see this thing come together
Chris
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2010, 05:56 PM
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Ceramic Paper Insulation Wrap

Hi Chris-Thanks for the comments! I can't wait to fire this thing up!

Stainless Steel Spring Wire is used to attach the Ceramic Paper Insulation as shown in the photos below.

The servos for the flight controls have been installed. The remaining servo will be mounted to the fuel line/shut-off valve. The servo arm will be attached directly to the valve handle.

Servo attachments use ball-end to plastic clevis connectors. Gold-n-Rod allows direct force to be applied to the control surfaces.

I'm using full size (=Heavy) servos that weigh 1.6 ounces each. Lots of torque available.

Rudder has a control horn with a rotating ball-end.

Same type of horn will be used for the Elevator. It has not been hooked up yet - might change a few things and then re-do the Elevator = at issue is how it clears the fuselage when in operation. Thinking of doing it a better way.

The wings are beginning to look like the original way designed might have some issues when attaching.

They might get a whole new look. Basically found some triangle balsa strips that are an exact match "Almost" for the wings. The wing airfoil is a symmetrical shape. This means it has the exact top and bottom shape.

Photo showing the balsa wood with the aileron rib/carbon control arm on top. The balsa wood has a flatter bottom angle than the top side of the triangle. This changes the shape of the bottom airfoil, which will change the stall speed.

The big advantage to using the balsa wood; they are less prone to warping. Due to humidity changes the paper could warp. If they warp the shape/stall speed of that wing changes. This causes spins when the model stalls.

Contemplating if the balsa wood changes are worth the change over. They would affect both wings the same. Warping of the individual ailerons will be different.

This model has an extremely high wing loading when compared to gas powered "scale" models (around 25-oz per sq ft). After doing some internet calculations using on-line calculators to verify my original math, the wing loading went down slightly to 30.06 oz-sq ft.

Hanna Reitsch was tasked with going to altitude and finding out why the piloted versions crashed on landing (Fieseler Fi 103-R). She determined that the landing speed was too high. Which was partly caused by the high wing loading of the original.

Designed from the start with much larger wings, this model also has ailerons on the wings. The WWII version used elevons for pitch and roll control. This was one reason why sliding a wing underneath and tipping them work so well.

Doing a weight check of the model shows it might weigh in around 3.5lbs instead of the 3.28 lb estimate. Still below the 4.5lb max.

Waiting until Monday for delivery of the fuel system parts. Living this far north has its share of shipping disadvantages...

Model is 85% done.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
Attached Thumbnails
BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-ceramic-insulation1.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-ceramic-insulation2.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-aileron-wood.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-spitfire-tipping-v-1.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-fi-103r-reichenberg_1945.jpg  

BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-v-1-cutaway.jpg  

Last edited by mbauer; 12-17-2010 at 06:07 PM. Reason: edits explaining photo of balsa wood triangle.
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2010, 04:36 PM
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Parts Dry Fit

Took a photo of a very important step. The Ailerons have to be built straight, to do so I needed some weights to clamp them with.

Looking around in the storage room found the perfect items.

Notice that the aileron is pressed between two plastic quilting rulers. The weights tried kept sliding off until I found these heavy bottles.

End result is a perfectly straight aileron. After the glue set-next step = purposely bent the tip to create a warped version of wing washout.

This makes the tip stall before the root allowing the model to recover from stalls eaiser as the whole wing doesn't stall.

Another thought is the controlled warping might stop the rest of the aileron from warping.

Here are some photos of the parts dry fit stage.

Waiting on the fuel line parts, stainless steel bolts & locking nuts.

Model weighs exactly 1lb 15.7 oz at this stage. [898.68gm or 0.90kg]

Parts not included in this weight:
-Pulsejet Engine (11-oz) [311.84gm]
-Fuel Valve & Lines (Approx. 3.6 oz) [102.06gm]
-Fuel Shut Off Servo (1.6oz) [45.36gm]
-Radio Reciever (1.6oz) [45.36gm]
-Gold-N-Rod Control Pushrods (Approx. 2oz) [56.7gm]
-Battery Pack (8oz) [226.8gm]
-BALANCE WEIGHT (Ouch!-Once the engine is installed a big balance weight is going to be needed-was hoping the battery and Radio Reciever would balance it, but the model is very tail heavy at this stage.)

This model has been designed for controlled flight. It is not aerobatic. The engine will stop if liquid fuel gets to it. Because this hasn't been done before, the plan was to design the model to withstand a normal 2G 60deg bank turn using just cardstock to carry the flight loads.

It would have been easy to cheat & use carbon fiber for the wing spars, longerons, etc., but the plan was to use just cardstock. It looks like it is going to work!

Once the wings have been attached with glue, the wingtips will be supported using a couple of the aileron press bottles. A 10lb [4.54kg] weight will be balanced on the fuselage over the center of gravity. If the model withstands this test, it shows that a 3.5lb [1.59kg] model (estimated completion weight) has a 2.86 G load. 10lb / 3.5lb = 2.86g

If the model handles the 10-lb ok, the next weight will be a 14.3lb barbell [6.5kg]. 14.3 / 3.5 = 4.09G load.

All that needs done is to:
1) Measure/make Pulsejet Engine mount clamps
2) Bolt Engine to model
3) Measure/bend fuel lines
4) Glue model internal structure, tailfeathers, & wings in place
5) Install Fuel Lines/Valving
6) Hook up controls to servos (Gold-n-Rod pushrods)
7) Install Battery
8) Install Radio Reciever
7) Balance Model for FLIGHT!

The engine will be test fired to make sure the fuel system works before installing into the model. If engine fires and the RC Shut Off valve works the fuel sytem will pass its test allowing installation to procede.

Model is 90% complete at this point!

Thank you for your interest in my little project!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
Attached Thumbnails
BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-aileron-gluing-press.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-v1-1.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-v1-2.jpg  

Last edited by mbauer; 12-19-2010 at 04:49 PM. Reason: Forgot to add metric conversions...
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  #24  
Old 12-22-2010, 06:55 PM
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Thumbs up

Superb workmanship and a whole bunch of other superlatives - your choice of weights keeping those Ailerons straight and flat is sign of a PURE GENIUS at work I keep everything crossed for you. Merry Christmas
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  #25  
Old 12-22-2010, 07:49 PM
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This is a great build, and way beyond my skills. Too much math to start with! I look forward to seeing more.
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  #26  
Old 12-22-2010, 07:49 PM
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Looks a lot like the old Dynajet. Quite a project!

Don
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  #27  
Old 12-23-2010, 12:34 PM
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Project Issue

Well, there is always something. Fuel system components arrived yesterday.

Picked them up at 4:35pm Alaska time. By 8pm a very bad issue has popped up.

Fuel line, valves and wye will work great.

Problem is a connection to the fuel can valve.

On an older fuel system (lost it during years of storage) the aluminum fuel line was soldered (sweat-just like plumbing pipes) using silver solder.

The metal tube that I tried to solder yesterday, won't. Tried for 3-hours to get it to work. Either my silver solder is bad, the flux is bad, or the metal isn't able to be soldered.

This means I had to go on-line to find some 1/16" [1.59mm] O.D. copper tubing. Found some for $5.35 + $38 shipping. I wish more businesses used the USPS Pirority instead of ground.

Anyway, project is on hold until I find away to attach the fuel lines to the fuel. Going to try a local hobby shop today to see if they have any copper tubing that will work. If that isn't possible a place in Anchorage carries some, or can order and pay the shipping.

Removed 0.8 oz [22.7gm] from the tailfeathers buy cutting a few lightening holes.

If the ceramic paper on the engine causes to much drag, found some ceramic adhesive that can be used with direct touch to 4000 deg F [2204 deg C]. Continuous use rated at 3500 deg F [1927 deg C].

It can be shaped like putty, is a single part and in all of the photos they show "bare" hands used when applying from a caulking gun. Air dries in 4-hours.

The shaping part is a great option. Maybe a degree of streamlining can be added.

It was great to find this product! It offers an additional way to insulate if the ceramic paper doesn't work. High Temperature Adhesives and Epoxies, Ceramics, Insulation, Epoxies and Epoxy

Thank you for the interest in my project!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #28  
Old 12-23-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miles Linnabery View Post
Dear Mike:
Are you going paint with High Temp auto paint or are you going to print the color as usual in a paper model? Also what RC parts and radio are you going to use? Are you going to fly in winter to land on soft powder snow.
GOOD LUCK,
Miles
Hi Miles,

Been thinking about your idea of painting the model.

The model is white because it is an alpha build. Almost camoflauged it like the originals. If the parts don't fit, a repaint after adjusting the parts has to be done. Sometimes this can be complicated.

Far better to do a white alpha build.

The added bonus on this model is, lines were printed on the wings etc. where the ribs lined up. When gluing it was easy to run the bead down the line knowing that the ribs were lined up. Basically I buillt the wing "Insideout" compared to normal builds.

1200 deg F [649 deg C] temp Barbeque paint might up the flash point of the paper. This is good. Bad is the weight gain.

I'd rather not do this, but since you brought it up, realize it should be an option. Only testing will show if it is needed.

Thank you!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #29  
Old 12-23-2010, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter taft View Post
Superb workmanship and a whole bunch of other superlatives - your choice of weights keeping those Ailerons straight and flat is sign of a PURE GENIUS at work I keep everything crossed for you. Merry Christmas
Peter,
Thank you very much. The genius was in the bottles..

CT,

No problem with your skills. easier construction than most scale models.
The math problems use fairly simple math (divide/multiply). Once done you just go on-line to find the right calculator to verify your results.

Don,

Yes, similar to a dynajet, but this one has no moving parts. Not as streamlined, and it doesn't get a boost from forwrd flight like a Dynajet would.

In case someone would like to see what inspired this project. I used to have a 1950s Suzuki-Edwards F-94c Starfire. During a messy divorce, I had to sell it or loose it.

A last minute ebay bidding frenzy resulted in an $1873.00 winner.

A video of a Dynajet Type pulsejet.

Here are a few photos of a Tigerjet from the 1950s. This engine is identical to the Dynajet, just more rare.

This F-94c was a control line C/L model that used galvanized cable. A very similar model set a 1950s record of 215mph.

Notice that center load bearing structure is a cast aluminum spar/bulkhead former. The spars only reached 1/3 inside of the wing skins. Wing skins were screwed to the casting. Almost like using paper to build with!

Broke my heart to sell it, but I think that was the plan...

Thank you for your interest in my project!

Merry Christmas! and I hope everyone has a Happy Holidays!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
Attached Thumbnails
BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-1950s-tigerjet.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-f-94-starfire-fuselage.jpg   BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-f-94c-main-casting.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 12-24-2010, 04:25 PM
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J-B Weld = Project Saver

well, after getting some small 1/16" O.D. copper tubing from the local hobby shop the silver solder still wouldn't sweat.

Tried some regular plumbing solder/flux after that.

Now it is setting up for 24-hours after using J-B Weld.

Growing up on a cattle ranch 50-miles from the nearest town, you learn two things you can't be without..
J-b weld and booze.

Just called on a reliable old friend to get this project going again!

Merry Christmas,
Mike Bauer
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