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  #31  
Old 12-31-2010, 04:42 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Fuel System Parts-Fireworks Tonight

Well, after searching the net looking for some 5/64" copper tubing (impossible to find), decided to drill the valve on the can to accept a larger size (1/16") copper tube.

The photo below shows the aluminum tubing, the engine, the On/Off 1/8" quarter turn ball valve (nestled on engine), some of the tools used.

My first try at using a different type of tubing bender didn't work. You'll notice the one on the extra fuel line that did work. The extra line is shown because if you look at the end, you can see where the 1/16" copper tube is inserted and JB-welded.

Notice that the can has a similar line inserted, the locking nut has been tightened and is ready to go.

When I drilled the locking nut and the valve head last night, I found that the "extra" line copper tube didn't protrude far enough to engage the valve head properly, so I JB-welded the one that is attached. It still needs to sit for 5-more hours before recommened usage.

This means I have extra time to check things, get the air tank ready, make sure new batteries are installed in the igniter, and get some ear-plugs!

In my excitement (yep, kid in a candy store for the first time feeling) leading up to first firing, the biggest thing to get done is make sure the checklist has every possible detail listed for a safe and successful test.

Test run will be done before installing the jet onto the model. Need to make sure the stainless steel wire is able to hold the temps without breaking. This engine start and running will be of longer duration than the first few firings once installed on the model. Need to make sure the insulation stays put!

If the engine fires up, stays running, and everything looks good, I figure 2-3 days of more construction to complete the final fit before it is ready to fly! This is no time to get in a hurry!

We got dumped on again with more snow. This is good as there is no vegetation that can catch on fire. I will have three stand-by fire extinguishers.

My daughter and her husband are having a party tonight, many of their friends are showing up to watch this thing fire (although I"m sure the real reason is the beer-pong challenge going on tonight).

I will join the fun and games after the engine runs!

If everything goes as planned, there might be some youtube videos to watch...

BTW-If anyone has any safety concerns, please bring them up! I'm getting more excited about the firing, if there is something that I'm overlooking-please speak up!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-fuel-system.jpg  

Last edited by mbauer; 12-31-2010 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Safety Advice Request
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  #32  
Old 12-31-2010, 11:54 PM
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Unhappy Engine Won't Run Issues

Well, trying to get it started resulted in flames but no woof-woof converting into a loud buzzing roar.

It did woof, woof, woof a few times.

Then the project ran out of compressed air. Started with an air tank for the compressed air supply, that had 25# psi.

Biggest issue, the fuel probably needs insulated from the cold to keep the pressure up. Even the preheat propane torch quit.
Bubble wrap and cardboard outershell should work! Can't find any old foam cup/soda can holders!

If keeping the pressure up doesn't work, the next plan is to return to the original plan of using a propane torch bottle as the fuel source.
A conversion set of instructions on how to turn the bottle and torch into a 1/4" fuel supply was found on-line. 1/4" valve weighs almost 2-times as much, the bottle weighs more and has larger dimensions. In other words a total re-design.

The added weight means a bigger airframe, and this might overlimit the engine. Project might have to use more wood and carbon fiber to keep it lighter.

Tomorrow, after filling the air tank with a bicycle tire pump, more tries will be done.

A photo of the engine imitating a barbaque lighter!

Thanks for your interest!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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BUZZZZZZ Pulsejet Powered Paper Airplane Project-barb-q-lighter.jpg  

Last edited by mbauer; 01-01-2011 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Typos-spell quick check!
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2011, 12:16 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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I made a recumbent trike and Cannondale corporation gave me a rear shock that could go up to around 300 p.s.i. for pressure. I was also given this tiny little air pump that could pump up that knd of pressure.

Manitou Shock Air Pump 100001813 at Cambriabike

Also, if you know anyone with a TIG welder, you can TIG copper to copper. Just cut small strips of copper to use, or make a big enough flange so that you can weld the flange to the tank. You can TIG any or the same type of materials together. Jesse James made a copper tank this way. If you lived close to my I'd let you use my TIG welder, it will weld down to .018" of a inch, if you set it up right.

Would "Great Stuff" work as an insulator, Home Depot carries that, so does Tractor Supply.

That is one awesome project you go going there, another reason for a "Scratch Build Section".
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  #34  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:07 PM
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Cool Ran Briefly (approx. 5-seconds)

Hi Zathros,

Thanks for checking this project out. Great stuff is the spray foam insulation correct?

Thought about getting some, but just wrapped the can with several layers of bubble wrap and then placed it inisde of a foam insulated zip-up case.

The TIG would be great! Haven't done any welding since I used to design and manufacture wood stoves from 1/4" plate steel. The 1/16" copper is .014 wall thickness.

The JB-Weld is holding up perfect!

Had to use my standby hand pump to air the tank up. Standup bike pump broke the plastic end off.

Got it going for about 5-seconds before the cold lowered the fuel pressure again. Todays temp was above 34 deg F outside with rain.

Yes, I jumped!!! Imagine standing next to the barrell of an 30-06 with a round firing every 1/200 of a second. That is as close as I can describe it!

Ears had a ringing noise for 30-minutes. Need to remember the ear plugs next time.

Insulated the fuel can, but not the valve on top. With the system running it frosted up quick and then stopped. When I tried to re-light it, the engine once again did its' imitation of a butane lighter.

Wondering if the double sided tape that has the foam in the middle might work to insulate the top valve. Still need to be able to get to the valve with whatever I use.

The engine is loud for how big it is!

I want to do an extended test run to see if the wire holding the insulation on, will hold before installing onto the model.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #35  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:52 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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I have shown a few friends this thread and all of their jaws dropped. You really have something quite awesome going on. I wish you lived nearby, I'd give you keys to my shop!! Great Stuff is that stuff in the spray cans, it also has great structural properties and can be counted on adding strength wherever it is used. As far as the top val, plastic wrap could be used to separate surfaces, Vaseline as a mold release, and Great Stuff sprayed in to make a molded insulating cover. Just some thoughts.
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  #36  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:28 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Hi Zathros,

Thanks for the complement!
Better watch out, you never know where I'll end up! (don't know myself).

Yes, the spray foam would work great. However;Found a small foam block that can be carved making a slip cover for the valve.

Have you ever seen an ICEMAN medical cooler? They are used to help keep the swelling down after surgery.

It is a small cooler that is filled with ice & water. It has a double hose connected to a pump inisde the cooler that circulates icewater to the injury area. Different shaped pads for different parts of the body.

The thought popped up about using hot water and wrapping the knee pad around the fuel can.

Just spent most of the afternoon doing an alternative fuel search. Started off making sure that propane is C4 which it is not. Mixed the carbon atoms up on C3 & C4. Propane is C3 (1-less atom than butane-so butane has approx. 12% more energy).

At issue though is that propane has a lower boiling point (-44 deg F) than Butane (near 0deg F). The lower boiling point means propane has higher vapor pressure available. i.e., Near zero degrees the butane has 0 pressure because the liquid isn't boiling.

One of the alternative fuel supplies is small 4-oz can of camp stove fuel by MSR. It is a 80% blend of butane with 20% propane. Found the stove this fits locally for $40, so it is an option (MSR Pocket Rocket-name is perfect for this project).

Then it struck like a lightening bolt, why not use a coleman camp stove white gas system. The tank on a double burner stove is small, lightweight and the pressure is controlled by using a pump! This might work better than the propane or butane.

Got some more searching to do.

Not giving up on the propane yet!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #37  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:47 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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I felt my brain doing a Homer Simpson reading the gas properties, I would have blown myself up by now!! The cooler foam could do the trick. If you made one of those nickel wire heated foam cutters, use a rheostat, to control the current, you could cut it into whatever shape you want. You can wire a potentiometer as a rheostat, as long as it can takes the wattage. Cool project! It's amazing what we do as a hobby and some governments can't do as a national project!
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  #38  
Old 01-03-2011, 08:34 AM
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  #39  
Old 01-03-2011, 08:36 AM
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Hey hey..... these guys are the business
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  #40  
Old 01-03-2011, 05:54 PM
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Heh... Any time that these engineering-types (Zathros, you know who you are) start with all that technical mumbo-jumbo, I just glaze over. My poor little Historian's brain just can't cope with all that. Yes, I might have two graduate degrees, but I can't add in my head.

Oh, and I've had a thought... If it's possible to build a working scale V-1 of paper (as is being demonstrated here) wouldn't it be possible to build a working scale V-2 of paper as well? Just a thought.
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