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Old 01-09-2022, 07:50 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Bearhawk

A friend is building a Bearhawk experimental Airplane.

I'm a member of the EAA (Experimental Aircraft Assoc) and we have a chapter here in Kenai. One of the members and I used to fly Huey helicopters together many years ago.

He asked for help visualizing his intended paint project. I stepped in and created a model using some jpeg he provided.

Today after the build, decided time to get back on my rubber band powered projects, this one is now printed out with a 36" wingspan.

He is now building his very first paper model! Old R/C'er.

1429 Construction:
Bearhawk-1492.jpg


Tootpick supported landing gear-Oleo's and leading edge of gear leg.
Bearhawk-pict1591.jpg

Side View
Bearhawk-pict1607.jpg

Prop
Bearhawk-pict1614.jpg

Prop-spinner done
Bearhawk-pict1617.jpg

Front
Bearhawk-pict1622.jpg

Right Side
Bearhawk-pict1625.jpg

Left Side
Bearhawk-pict1627.jpg

36" printed and parts are getting done
Bearhawk-pict1632.jpg

Mike

Last edited by mbauer; 01-09-2022 at 08:05 PM. Reason: photo issue
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2022, 02:33 AM
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Very nice Mike!
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  #3  
Old 01-15-2022, 12:02 AM
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Bearhawk Build Thread

Bearhawk Build Thread 2022

Creating this thread because some non-experienced builders might need help if they use my model kit to help design their own paint scheme for the full size airplane they are building.

The Bearhawk is an amazing airplane. It has a big following of pilot/builders and builders wanting to join the ranks of the Pilot/Builders.

I’m going to start with the basics.

Tools, glues and text that help get things rolling in the right direction.

First off:

Paper models demand more attention to detail than any previous models you might have made.

You don’t cut the Part A off of a plastic frame, and then glue to Part B.

You cut the part out. Then you create the part. Might need some kind of pre-shaping, or does it have several bends and glue joints to make it into the shape required?

To add to the fun of trying to cope with parts that don’t fit a square shape when you want them too, too much glue can warp the part beyond use.

Please don’t ask me how many glue finger prints I’ve left on models through the years…Another example of using to much glue, getting on your fingers and adding to the outside of the model when clamping for glue pressure.

In other words a glue applicator is a must.
1) Some use Q-tips
2) Some use Toothpicks
3) Some use the glue bottles the glue comes in (sure thing for getting too excess glue where you don’t want it)
4) Plastic Glue squeeze bottles with a small metal straw to control flow
5) Plastic syringe used for ink cartridge refills (these are fantastic)
6) I use the Monoject 412-Dentist use them to flush the mouth out with a directed water jet stream. I bought mine on eBay for dirt cheap

Straight Edge
You will need a straight edge of some kind for accurate straight line cuts and scoring when creasing fold lines.

The more accurate your straight line cuts are the easier the model will be to make, Same hold true for folds. A crooked fold on the wing leading edge will change the shape. Cause the fuselage to twist like a helix…
Plenty of choices.

I use a quilting ruler that is 24”x6" with a non-slip mat super 77 spray glued to the bottom. The ruler is about 3/16” high and helps guide the cutting blade vertically.

I use several different cutters. If you get hooked on paper modeling, you'll find yourself in plenty of shopping areas with different cutting equipment.

For long straight cuts, a rotary cutter can’t be beat. If there are inside cuts along the straight, then I use a Fiskars hobby knife.

The hobby knife (Xacto) also takes care of any inside circle or arc cuts.

For outside arcs or circles, I use a sharp pair of scissors. The kind you squeeze down on the handle-not insert fingers, thumb into handle.

What kind of lighting do you have?

You will be cutting small thin lines accurately, good lighting is required! I like LED daylight to see with.

Cutting matt and area big enough to build at.

Glue:
Everybody has a favorite. Some build with super glue for paper. Get a drop of this in your eye and you’ll wish you were wearing safety glasses. Cardstock acts like a springboard sometimes.

PVA glue is a good stand in. Plenty of different brands and styles. White school glue. Elmers works, as does almost any glue for paper.

Sometimes you will need a glue for adding plastic windows/canopies. Wire for support? Wood supports many parts of my rubber band powered model, it rides on RC foam tires wheels supported on spring steel wire gear.

Super glue work good for these. So does Zip Dry and other multi talented glues.

My main glue is Aleene’s Turbo Tacky glue. It flows perfect out of the Monoject 412.

Attaching a PDF file that shows different tools and techniques for making model parts. Next post will cover construction.

Mike
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2013-Technique-Tools.pdf (432.3 KB, 13 views)
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Old 01-15-2022, 12:20 AM
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Bearhawk 24" Wingspan Build

On my models all cut lines, inside of parts are dotted lines. Dash lines are fold lines.
1465 Cutting/Scoring parts
Bearhawk-pict1465.jpg

1470 Gluing first part of rear bottom fuselage, short glue tab on each side. I like to do one side then do the other so the model gets built evenly.
Bearhawk-pict1470.jpg

1474 Inside look at glue tabs-note one side is completed.
Bearhawk-pict1474.jpg

1475 Both Sides glued: Now head up front for more gluing practice
Bearhawk-pict1475.jpg

1478 Forgot to pre-shape the part. A flat now has to fit a curve. This will take extra clamping time. You'll see the proper pre-shaping when I do the top of the fuselage.
Bearhawk-pict1478.jpg

1488 Edge coloring. Only way to get rid of white lines on model once completed. Each edge of the cardstock will show on completed model unless you camouflaged with edge coloring. Some use pastels, water colors, water color pencils, color pencils, gray pencil lead, color markers.
Bearhawk-pict1488.jpg


1491 Cutting Wing Root Glue tab Slits.
Bearhawk-pict1491.jpg

1498 Good view of slits after cutting completed. You want the tabs to slide in easy. Check out the pre-shaped part. The top front engine cowling has been properly pre-shape by rolling a wood dowel under it until it curved.
Bearhawk-pict1498.jpg

1505 Front Top glued
Bearhawk-pict1505.jpg

1506 Top of curve glued
Bearhawk-pict1506.jpg

More to follow.

Mike
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Old 01-15-2022, 12:47 AM
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Bearhawk 2022 Build Continued

Fueslage almost done. Using care when gluing will help keep the fuselage straight and not twisted.

Normally you need to apply a bunch of pressure when gluing. Part of paper modeling is learning the correct amount of pressure and time to apply. You have to force the glue into the paper fibers.

Turbo Tacky or any Tacky glue dries a little faster to help with shortened hold/clamping times.

Clamps
Haven’t talked about clamps yet. Not needed for this build, but there are plenty of other builds that will require some sort of clamps.

Clothes pins work great, they can be taken a part and then put together upside down to create a different clamping pressure. I’ve used tied together rubber bands for clamping airfoil shapes.

1510 Gluing left top of fuselage tailcone-glue has been applied
Bearhawk-pict1510.jpg

1514 Fuselage done
Bearhawk-pict1514.jpg

1516 Gluing Wing onto fuselage. Insert wingroot glue tabs into the slits you cut. Once snug up against the fuselage side. Apply glue being careful to make sure all tabs are fully inserted into the fuselage, and stay there until glue sets.
Bearhawk-pict1516.jpg

1532 closeup of glue fillet
Bearhawk-pict1532.jpg

1518 Gluing the tailfeathers
Bearhawk-pict1518.jpg

1520 Gluing tailfeathers 2
Bearhawk-pict1520.jpg

1546 Toothpick Landing gear support
Bearhawk-pict1546.jpg

1548 Tailwheel pieces, used super glue to harden this part. It can fail easily if not soaked in super glue. Or super glue gel added to certain weak points.
Bearhawk-pict1548.jpg

1552 Fake Disc Brakes. They are used to support the wire axle and the toothpick supported oleo struts for the landing gear. They hide the connection as well as guide the tire vertically if you make them rotatable by using a wire axle.
Bearhawk-pict1552.jpg

1555 Tire Discs
Bearhawk-pict1555.jpg

More to follow.

Mike

Last edited by mbauer; 01-15-2022 at 01:16 AM.
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2022, 01:15 AM
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Bearhawk 2022 Cont.

1568 Glue internal Tire disc supports
Bearhawk-pict1568.jpg

1572 Tire ring added to disc
Bearhawk-pict1572.jpg

1579 Tire done-use small drill bit twisted with fingers to drill the axle holes
Bearhawk-pict1579.jpg

1582 Gluing landing gear
Bearhawk-pict1582.jpg

1585 Glue tail wheel
Bearhawk-pict1585.jpg

1589 Oleo’s struts are –toothpicks
Bearhawk-pict1589.jpg

1596 On Gear-wire axle super glued into cardstock/disc brake
Bearhawk-pict1596.jpg

1599 sitting on gear
Bearhawk-pict1599.jpg

1605 Closeup
Bearhawk-pict1605.jpg

More to follow

Mike
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Old 01-15-2022, 12:12 PM
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Bearhawk 2022 Cont.

1610 Propeller Parts-Fold prop in half & Glue. Leave Propeller flat, insert prop half into small tube that is the prop hub. Drill the center hole to inset the wire shaft to allow the prop to spin.
Bearhawk-pict1610.jpg

1614 Gluing Spinner Back Plate & prop into Spinner
Bearhawk-pict1614.jpg

1617 Finished Prop/Spinner assembly
Bearhawk-pict1617.jpg

1622 Prop installed
Bearhawk-pict1622.jpg

1625 Right Side
Bearhawk-pict1625.jpg

1627 Left Side
Bearhawk-pict1627.jpg

1630 Model completed. Sitting on top of 36” Wingspan version that will be rubber band powered. Next posts will cover adding the rubber band parts to the model.
Bearhawk-pict1630.jpg

36" Wingspan Rubber band Powered Bearhawk. Weight before weight/Balancing = 7.7oz: Weight after weight/balancing = 9oz. optical illusion-the wheels are not on the floor, they just look like it...
Bearhawk-pict1772.jpg


Mike

Last edited by mbauer; 01-15-2022 at 12:16 PM. Reason: floor
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Old 01-15-2022, 05:27 PM
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Okay, if you're interested in making one of these, I've up loaded a whitePDF set of files. You can paint as needed then print and build, or print and paint however you desire.

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/v...ownloadid=3982

Mike
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Old 01-16-2022, 06:48 PM
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Updated Download Section Bearhawk Model

Just did a complete re-do of the white Bearhawk model PDF in the Download section. Updated the outlines so you can see them. The color model, I use gray lines, they hide once the model is completed.

Black line tend to stand out.

Anyway it has been updated with the new look. The single sheet paper for quick test of ideas has been upgraded too.

Here is a jpeg of the pdf version.
Bearhawk-paint-single-sheet-jpeg.jpg

Save and use to paint, sometimes it is easier to paint a JPEG than a PDF.

Mike
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Old 01-18-2022, 10:36 PM
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36" Wing Span Rubber Band Powered Bearhawk [91.4cm]

1632 Printed 36" [91.4cm] Rubber Band Power Model. Note: On the printed cardstock check out the full size wing spar, balsa patterns. Wire is bent into shape for the landing gear.
Bearhawk-pict1632.jpg

1634 Tailwheel.- With this style of mount, the tire tilted to one side or the other, to weak for the side load. Super glued everything together for strength, now the tire is just a skid.
Bearhawk-pict1634.jpg

1643 Gluing the balsa floor and side supports in the cabin. Always start with the center floor. Then line everything up on it. Please note: Big Gap on the wall side to clear the floor when the side wall is bent vertical for final gluing.
Bearhawk-pict1643.jpg

1653 Parts; Please look at the Vertical fin. The stabilizer is balsa wood the rudder is cardstock. This allows the rudder to be bent for flight trim. Same for the elevator. If the wings need fixed, they can be warped some, but you might have to glue a small tab to the trailing edge and bend that for trim. Also you can see the parts for the rubber band mount. Front mount, rear mount and the paper tube.
Bearhawk-pict1653.jpg

1663 Tube/ Wing Spar. Note markings on wing spar left and right of the centerline. They help line up the spar once the fuselage is complete and is ready for the spar. You use “eyeball” engineering to line up the spar in the fuselage. Look at the marks, note the tall one, it is the ideal place the fuselage ends up at.
Bearhawk-pict1663.jpg

On this build the correct marks lined up.

1664 Front mount
Bearhawk-pict1664.jpg

1668 Rubber band tube location. The tube is a 11x17 size piece of paper rolled on a 1" diameter wood dowel. As it is rolled around the dowel, the last half is spray glued to seal it. On the inside part spray the glue very carefully-don’t get any on the wood dowel or you will have issues. Once sprayed, finish rolling the tube.
Bearhawk-pict1668.jpg

1677 Gluing front mount into the fuselage.
Bearhawk-pict1677.jpg

I made several mistakes building this one. Had to tear the fuselage apart after realizing I forgot to do a couple of steps. Wanted to install the landing gear wire before closing the fuselage. Did not want to glue the rear tube mount until just before final gluing/closing of fuselage top.

By gluing early I then began to try and glue the top, realized I had induced a twist into the fuselage. Only option to fix: had to tear apart before glue completely dried on the mount.

Realized that my option for the landing gear, without a total rebuild, would be to mount on the outside of the fuselage. Created balsa wood piece and did it.

The fuselage rear mount was fixed and the next photo says it all.

1681 Fuselage complete.
Bearhawk-pict1681.jpg

More to see.....

Mike
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