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  #11  
Old 08-30-2009, 09:29 AM
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cjwalas cjwalas is offline
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Thanks, Kuba. I agree with you that 2mm is a pain to work with and I'm happy to avoid it!
Time to get going on this one!
Chris
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2009, 11:46 AM
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cjwalas cjwalas is offline
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Took some time yesterday to get a start on this and got the basic frame together;
MM ship contest ORP "DZIK"-img_2577.jpg
This is the conning tower and there is a misalignment of the back slot/tab arrangement between parts 51C and 51D. I just cut the tab off and added a few reinforcing squares.
MM ship contest ORP "DZIK"-img_2579.jpg
This model is a little larger than I expected. It's 23 &1/2" so far, a good size model.
My"craftsmanship" is a little sloppy on this.:o I'm a little disappointed in myself, but at least it's finally progress! The frame seems quite solid and pretty straight, but I'm sure I can get everything out of whack somewhere down the line on this!
MM ship contest ORP "DZIK"-img_2580.jpg
Looking forward to making some real headway on this one soon. I don't have a lot of faith in my ability to get the skins on right, but hey, it's a learning experience!
Chris
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2009, 12:11 PM
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This looks excellent, Chris!

Don
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2009, 06:26 PM
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I like ships just for the almost eerie skeleton you got there (looks great!) but then I tire out and give up by the time I get to the agonizingly tiny details.
You have to persevere
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2009, 06:50 PM
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cjwalas cjwalas is offline
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I'm new to this type of skinning and I'm not sure I've figured it out yet. It looks like the skins meet on the bulkhead formers. Do they have to share the edge of the former or should there be connecting strips between the hull skins first? I really wish I could read Polish right about now...
Chris
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  #16  
Old 08-31-2009, 06:59 PM
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Barry Barry is offline
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You need paper strips preferably coloured
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  #17  
Old 08-31-2009, 07:55 PM
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Thank you, Barry, much appreciated. That was my suspicion, but it's always nice to get directions from someone who's been there.
Chris
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2009, 04:25 PM
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lehcyfer lehcyfer is offline
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Excerpt from instruction (the part titled "Poszycie Kadluba"):

Quote:
Covering the hull

Start from gluing on the leafs to keel and part G-G1, between formers W6 and W7, keeping in mind that the leaf cannot extrude behind the formers. Check with a ruler, whether the leaf between two formers is glued on properly. Round the not glued fragment of leaf. Cut out rectangles marked on the plating. All segments of plating form into a ring before gluing on, for example on the edge of table. Then succesively fit 2-3 segments of plating and glue them. It's best to start from the top, placing simultaneously and symmetrically on both sides of hull down to the keel. Segments for which there are leafs connect this way: glue the leaf to one of the sides and lay it on the framing. The side with leaf attach earlier so that the opposite end lies down on the leaf. All segments are glued from the top to the keel. Parts 8 and 9 lay from the top - they will also play the role of torpedo launchers.
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2009, 07:19 PM
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cjwalas cjwalas is offline
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THANK YOU! The translation will help tremendously, lehcyfer! I had misglued several of the upper formers (the Ws). I've taken it apart and I am just finishing moving my modeling to another part of the house and I'm anxious to get back to this project (along with several others).
Chris
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2009, 07:27 PM
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B-Manic B-Manic is offline
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Looks pretty good Chris. There is lots of space between those formers. It is always best to make the strips or leafs wider than you expect. MM kit are notorious for the skins not meeting at the formers. They usually end up covering the whole hull though.
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