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  #11  
Old 04-11-2014, 01:10 PM
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Internet Modeller appears to have a Airbrushing How-To section
and I noticed some Ship related painting articles.

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  #12  
Old 04-11-2014, 01:32 PM
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Hmm, interesting points on both fronts.

Both Hathaway and Airdave make good points. It's been well over 20 years since I've used an airbrush. I initially learned on a single action (it was a gift). I'm glad I started there but I quickly outgrew it and moved on the a number of different double-action airbrushes.

As to the compressor, yeah get a good, quiet one. I've used the little noisy clackity-clack ones (WILL drive you out of your mind - or deaf - whichever comes first), larger ones and canned air. An old SCUBA tank with some sort of regulator was popular with friends.

In retrospect, (personally), I think the single action was more useful for broad application of paint and lacked the finesse for fine lines and details. Also, the spatter pattern seemed much more corse than the double action.

With all respect to DaVinci and other past masters, I've spent much time in museums and other places showing fine art. They are called Masters for a reason, but these masters laid on the paint pretty thick, and could go over and over 'till they were satisfied, building up measurable thicknesses of paint, with noticeable brushstrokes, something I think you'd want to avoid with paper models.

On the other hand, Dave is a professional, especially with an airbrush, so his advice/observations are based on real experience.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2014, 01:41 PM
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As Dave noted, yes, buy the best quality you can afford. Aside from being able to recover most of your investment (if need be), quality makes a difference in the action of the airbrush and the results you'll achieve.

When I was in school and money was at a premium, I'd go to Utrech's and buy their house brand watercolor paint tubes for $.50 to $1.00 a tube. It worked OK and got the job done.
However, when I started buying Windsor-Newton watercolors, man, there was a big difference. It broke down easier in water, went on much cleaner and smoother and flowed beautifully...gives me goosebumps thinking about it. Might not have improved the composition, but the finish of the pieces was improved.
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2014, 01:44 PM
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I don't know what it costs to fill one, but
SCUBA tanks are very good sources of clean dry compressed air
(if you get them refilled by a proper filler).
I remember hearing about people who used them (when I first started airbrushing).

The only concern I would have is the limited tank supply.
For many fine artists and Illustrators, who use the airbrush sparingly in their artwork,
this could be a super silent method of supplying compressed air.

But the way I airbrush, I'd drain the tank pretty fast!

Yeah, I've had these arguments on airbrush forums (about spending money on cheaper equipment)
and I always come back to the same complaints I get from students and novices.
A lot of which could be solved if better tools were used in the first place.

But at the same time, I respect the fact that we (me included) are not made of money,
and I too, am always on the lookout for a good deal or a cheaper alternative.

Sorry for jumping on your post Hathaway.
Didn't mean to attack you personally.
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Old 04-11-2014, 01:52 PM
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An airbrush sprays almost "dry" paint.
The paint is atomized as it leaves the airbrush and is virtually dry when it reaches the
surface...although you can build up enough paint to create a wet puddling effect.
So I would use an airbrush sparingly on a paper model.

You wil probably be using waterbased paints, which is acceptable, but you could easily
overload an area with paint and create a weakened state that could result in stretching,
tearing or deformation (wrinkling).
If you "paper" is already covered with putty and/or primer this would hardly be a concern.

I could see using the airbrush to add shading, weathering and textural detail in much the same way airbrushes are used in other scale model work.
In that case, spray airbrush watercolours and paints, with minimal reduction (less thinning) and build up layers slowly to avoid "wet" painting.
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Old 04-11-2014, 01:56 PM
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Yeah Dave, I've looked at your work on your website. I can see you having to haul a truckload of SCUBA tanks to a big job and STILL not having enough air!

It's funny (odd), to have this and similar threads on the site about quality of certain things, yet I read again and again about buying the cheapest printers, cardstock and ink, all of which really have a play in the outcome of a model.

Yes, don't think any of us are made of money, but with the time that goes into building a good model, I'd think folks would want to use the best affordable.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2014, 02:07 PM
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I wish I had read a thread like this about 6 years ago when I started with airbrushing. Bought the 20€ "starter" set from Revell to paint a tank model. It was a single action with a gas bottle. It worked horribly and almost destroyed the whole model. It wasn't cheap also, as the gas bottles cost about the same as the whole set, and it needed a lot of paint to spray! Then I decided to wait a bit to save money for a better one. Ended up buying a piston compressor and an "Evolution" double action. Worked better, but somehow I didn't get satisfied with it, either. Cleaning the gun was horrible (at least I remember it so) and the results weren't what I was looking for, too. Then I got an Iwata in a sale for about half of it's original price. It is very easy to clean, takes about 10 minutes. The first results were bad again, but I kept experimenting. Came to the conclusion that I had to use much lower pressure than I started with (ended up using under 1 bar). This gave the biggest improvement yet and I really enjoy it now. I wouldn't want to miss it again! It only takes a while until you get a feeling for it.

And I really second what Dave said, invest some money into a good-quality gun and compressor, and you will save both, money and frustration.

BTW, what you will discover when you start airbrushing and have painted with normal brushes before is that the main work shifts from the actual painting to the preparations before. Mostly masking (for getting hard edges) takes nearly as much time as you would have needed for the whole paintjob with a normal brush. This can be frustrating at the beginning. But it's really worth it!

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  #18  
Old 04-11-2014, 02:26 PM
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When you have the option of taking a model to the local Print or Copy shop
and getting better printing, better paper, etc
it doesn't makes sense to invest a ton in printer and supplies.

But I use the cheapest cardstocks and inks, because I discard so much.
I go through a lot of cardstock and ink while repeatedly designing and test building parts
...before I get to the final print and build.

If I was just printing the occasional model to build...I might expect a
better print on better paper...and so I might invest in better stuff.

Having said all that, I admit I do have a average quality printer,
and I have searched out the best quality "cheap" refilled inks,
and I do keep "cheap" paper and "better" paper for various jobs.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdave View Post
When you have the option of taking a model to the local Print or Copy shop
and getting better printing, better paper, etc
it doesn't makes sense to invest a ton in printer and supplies.

But I use the cheapest cardstocks and inks, because I discard so much.
I go through a lot of cardstock and ink while repeatedly designing and test building parts
...before I get to the final print and build.

If I was just printing the occasional model to build...I might expect a
better print on better paper...and so I might invest in better stuff.

Having said all that, I admit I do have a average quality printer,
and I have searched out the best quality "cheap" refilled inks,
and I do keep "cheap" paper and "better" paper for various jobs.
To be open, yes, I have different grades of card stock.

I was talking about building a finished model for display.

You, such as the tank development, or other designers/folks designing and doing beta builds, I wouldn't expect to use the highest grade as you work out parts and fit. But if I was building the purchased model, I would only use quality materials on it.
I have yet to go to a copy/print shop to print out a model. Cost-wise it would probably cost the same or more than for me to do it myself.

I might be spoiled as I've haven't had anything smaller than a 13" x 19" printer photo-quality since 1993.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2014, 09:08 PM
paulmackie paulmackie is offline
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My intent would be to weather the paper model, so it looks more realistic in a diorama setting; and add that extra touch of authenticity and interest to the model.

It sounds like most people hand paint, but if using an airbrush, quality equipment and experience would make for a better weathered model.

Are most people weathering by hand?
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