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  #11  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:40 PM
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shrike shrike is offline
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I'm not sure, and I'm sure I will be corrected, but I wonder if it's a cultural bias. I've run into the same thing - the Vulcan was choice for that, but usually easy to figure out - and I wonder if it's the Polish norm to differentiate left and right from the viewpoint of an observer standing in front of the object , rather than the POV of the operator. Sort of like "stage left".
I seem to recall reading something like that a long time ago and filed it next to Russain ships being "him"
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:51 PM
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P = right is always from the view of the operator as far as I've noticed.
It's this case here as well, if you look on the very front bulkhead (part #4) and the rear one (part #5) - both have 1P arrows from the view of the operator.
I believe in this case the sides (part #1) are mistakenly labeled, and the flipped piece (part #3) is supposed to have the printed side outwards.

Edit:
Though now I can't decide anymore about #3, perspective gets in the way, heh.
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Last edited by Gharbad; 02-10-2009 at 08:55 PM.
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2009, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieC View Post
It looks like the frame went together pretty well - looks like it's quite well designed and the skins will go on without the major sagging which is a feature of many MM models. I can see you'll have to do some sanding to get the skins to fit neatly.

Regards,

Charlie
Charlie,
Yes, the frame did go together very well but I had to add pieces of 1.0 mm card stock to reinforce the bottom of the hull otherwise the bottom skins would not be glued to anything. Without this extra support it would sag for sure! To prep the frame for sanding I used latex wood filler to fill the gaps in the joints. When dry, this sands very easily, generally I use an emery board that I borrow from my wife.





Chris,

About the tracks...
Actually they could be very complex (I probably won't be building them that way). The tracks start out a two simple bands, (inside & outside) to which many, many pieces are glued to form the tread. The inside is simple enough, only have to attach a guide plate to every other link.
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#12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-track1.jpg   #12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-track2.jpg   #12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-track3.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2009, 08:18 AM
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Wow, that is a very complex tread! I'm astonished that MM would even put something of that complexity into a kit that is essentially for kids!
I'm sure however you do the tracks, they'll look better than they probably should!
Chris
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2009, 09:33 AM
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Kevin has a tendency to make kits look better than they should.

Don
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2009, 10:21 AM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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Thanks for your kind words, Chris and Don.


Skins On...

The fit of the skins is very good, especially around the cut out areas. So far, I'm really surprised, because when I first looked at this kit I thought I was going to be in for trouble, but for now it seams to be moving along quite well.

The first two photos below show the hull before the skins were attached. Note in the first photo, bottom supports had to be added. Without them there would be nothing for the skins to attach to.

Now the fun begins, adding all of the details!
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#12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-su-100-006.jpg   #12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-su-100-007.jpg   #12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-su-100-009.jpg   #12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983-su-100-010.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 02-11-2009, 10:26 AM
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That looks nice Kevin!
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  #18  
Old 02-11-2009, 10:35 AM
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Looking great. I have an ignorant question (I'm not an armor builder); how do you glue the skins over a large area? Do you use thinned glue vs. spray glue, etc?
I'm a tank fan, but the paper model processes (many wheels, treads and skins) is still intimidating!
Chris
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boosed View Post
Kevin has a tendency to make kits look better than they should.

Don
You know, Kevin, Don's right. It's looking good!
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2009, 11:09 AM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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Thanks guys.

Chris,
It is really not all that difficult, you just have to test fit each piece before gluing it onto the frame. To make this easier, many times I will cut the skins apart so that I can glue individual pieces onto each surface separately rather than trying to fold and wrap one big piece around many corners. Applying the skins this way is much more forgiving. Any overlap that occurs can be trimmed with a sharp razor before moving on to the next piece.

To attach the skin to the frame work I use Elmer's glue and a 3/4" wide stiff bristled paint brush. I wet the brush with a little water to slightly thin the glue (not too much though, you don't want it to be runny) then brush a thin coat of glue onto one section of the frame at a time. Position the skin, then burnish it down using a folding bone. You could use anything that's hard and smooth for this job, I just like the way the bone works into tight corners.

Once the skins are attached, the edges can be colored. To do this, I use a very light dry brushing of a matching acrylic color.

I hope this helps

Kevin

Last edited by KCStephens; 02-11-2009 at 11:44 AM.
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