#1
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#12 - OTDAEABT 2 - Maly Modelarz SU-100 10/1983
As I pulled into my driveway earlier this afternoon, I spotted the package that I have been anxiously waiting for laying there between my front doors. I could hardly wait to tear it open to examine the contents, that's when reality slapped me right square across the face. After one quick look, I thought; Boy, what have I gotten myself into!
Now, to me 1983 is not all that long ago...(Highschool Junior, having fun with my friends, first car, girl friend, money in my pocket, etc, etc..) but now to look at the pages of this model you would think this was printed sometime around the turn of the century. God, I hope I don't look that bad! I'm sure this is probably not news to many of you who have more experience with MM kits... but, to be honest, this is the first time I've ever even looked at a one. I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but I really didn't think it would (or could) be that bad. The cover, instruction pages, and a few of the parts (including the tracks) are printed on what appears to be a heavy newsprint paper that has yellowed with age and includes many large brown spots and even a few small holes. The other part sheets are of about the same quality only they are printed on a heavier card stock. The overall print quality is horrible to say the least...I sure won't be taking the time to paint these edges as I usually do, this time I'll be using a magic marker for sure. The other thing about this model that is going to make it a challenge is that there are almost no diagrams, only one page, and that's it. If anyone out there has more info on this kit I would be very thankful. I will however move forward and give it my best shot. I only hope the parts fit together better then they look. Last edited by dansls1; 07-02-2009 at 08:11 AM. |
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#2
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I've also got a copy of this model - perhaps mine is in slightly better condition. I wouldn't even think about trying to build with the original part sheets. Can you scan the parts sheets? If not drop me a PM with an e-mail address and I'll scan my copy.
Regards, Charlie |
#3
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Good luck Kevin. I hope that one page of diagrams is a good one. Your description of the kit sounds like a MM alright. When I first started in this hobby I ordered a whole bunch of MM kits because they were cheap. I found out why. Having a scanner helps.
~ cheers |
#4
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Charlie, I'll be sure to take your advice and build from scans. I've got that part covered, but I'm sure you can help me out in the future when I'm cursing up a storm trying to figure out how many of these parts are supposed to go together. :D
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#5
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Kevin -- It looks like you have chosen exactly the right model for this contest -- a classic in every respect!
Don |
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#6
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Beginning Construction
So far, so good.
I began this project by making a scan of each page and printing out a clean copy on 67# (.009") vellum bristol stock. I did not have a choice here, due to the poor quality of the old paper, the model would have been impossible to build using the original pages. Hull Construction: I first laminated the formers onto a sheet of 1.0mm board stock using 3M 77 spray adhesive. After cutting them out, I was surprised that they fit together as well as the did. There was only one small issue with a hatch opening on part #3 (see photo's below). The kit has the "P" and "L" (Left and Right) reversed on that part to show where it attaches to the side of parts 1P & 1L. Not a big deal, I'm just glad that I found this now when I could still easily fix it. Next I will begin to apply the skins. I only hope that they fit as well as the formers. |
#7
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Looks like a nice, clean fit, Kevin. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the rest goes together as well. Are the tracks as simple as they appear in the first photo you posted?
Chris |
#8
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Good beginning, Kevin!
Don |
#9
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It looks like the frame went together pretty well - looks like it's quite well designed and the skins will go on without the major sagging which is a feature of many MM models. I can see you'll have to do some sanding to get the skins to fit neatly.
Regards, Charlie |
#10
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I thought the P & L sides on mine were reversed also but, then it occurred to me that perhaps the printed side goes inside the model. This way you an ensure the interior supports line up using the printed lines (in spite of the tabs & slots). That's my theory anyway.
Your's is looking good can't wait to see it with some skin on it. ~cheers |
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