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Old 06-26-2009, 11:44 PM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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UHU02's Hellboy Samaritan build

Okay, in the tradition of all things card modeling, I'm going to start a new project before I finish the last one (see nothings 1851 colt navy build thread...). you know how it is, Parts all laminated awaiting drying, but I want to build now, D*mnit.

Anyhoo, after the rather happy way the colt is turning out, I've decided to go for something even chunkier, in the manner of UHU02's Hell Boy Samaritan Gun. This puppy's LARGE.


well, the colts finished, so I'm now well into the Samaritan. The techniques used in this thread ore not traditional card modelling techniques, but rather show how I build a card model using the design as basis for a much stronger and hopefully more realistic version.

What I hope to do is take a well designed model, which if made "straight from the printer' will look something like this:

And make it look more like this:

Requirements: 1mm card. I buy this in large sheets from a stationers. The samaritan will use about 1/2 a sheet.

White glue. Normal PVA. or Elmers for you Americans.
Superglue. CA adhesive. Cheapest you can get. you'll need alot.
Spray primer. I use an auto body primer, beause it dries enough to work with very quickly.
Pre mixed waterbased wood putty. A mate put me onto this stuff, after seeing the struggles I went through getting a couple of the Colt Navys parts smooth using the superglue method. Awesome. a quick wipe and the seams are filled. Great for tight rounded concave corners.
A superglue accelerator is also usful, but not hugely important.
Fine sand paper. I tend to use the wet and dry type.

Next: Starting the frame.


I know I said the frame, but I think this would be more aptly discribed as the Barrel assembly.

First up, Print everything on standard paper in greyscale/text to save some ink. As I'll be painting this thing, print quality is not important, as long as the parts are clear enough to use as patterns. I've glued pretty much the whole lot to 1mm card, just using white glue. I don't seem to have any trouble with warping/wrinkles, just keep the glue well spread out, even, and squish it flat while it dries.

Next trick it to cut out your first pieces, trace around them, cut out the new piece 1mm inside the line, and glue it to the first. this gives a 2mm thick part with a small ledge around the inside edge (make suer it IS the inside..) This is the basic plan for all parts, but you will need to plan ahead, and subtract a bit from many parts to allow for the thickness of card on other edges. all parts are separated where they would normally have a fold, making for a lot more pieces, but a stronger built overall. Actually, this model is very well suited to this building approach, with all its flat sides and sharp angles, and simple colouring.

The botom of the barrel assembly has parts to create the swing/opening hinge (part 6 and 7), but unless you wish to able to open and close your Samaritan about twice before catastrophic failure, I suggest strongly the this area be redesigned a bit.

I've made up a ring of paper to the measurments of part 6, made by tightly winding strip of lightly glued paper around a suitably sized former (in my case, a curtain rod), until it reached the required diameter, it then had its ends well soaked with superglue and sanded flat, making a VERY tough ring that should handle fair bit of abuse. The archway in which this was glues was skinned over completly with two layers of well glued card to give a secure anchorage.

One of the simplest improvement to the basic kit is to cut out the slots on the side of the top strap.

I have added some extra barrel support ring to the barrel to give the sides a bit more to glue onto, But before you do this, BUILD THE BARREL LINER, and check that it fits your holes. ... I didn't, and now all my wonderful rifling is yuckky at the top where I had to cut 3mm out of the tube...

The rest of the build has gone relatively smoothly so far, don't forget to bevel the edges of the outer barrel pices so they fit nice and tight together.

putting in the extra barrel rings made the rubber banding possible, and avoided having to sit and hold the assembly for an hour or so. I left it overnight.

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Old 06-26-2009, 11:53 PM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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The Barrel Liner: The kit comes with a printed liner, but of course I wanted proper rifling, so I cut some thin card into strips an applied the to the printed part. I the painted most of it silver, as it would be difficult to reach with a brush later on.

This will make it more difficult to roll up, but take your time and all be okay. I've left the ends of the overlapping parts of the rifling loose so the can be glued over the seam when the rest of the liner is dry. (This all fell in a heap of course when I discovered my barrel wouldn't fit. see last post).

The Round 'Recoil damper" is done just like the ring earlier, only longer. more detail will be added to this at a later date.

The huge size of this weapon is really becoming apparent now.

All parts have been given a thourough coating of superglue, before sanding, primering, supergluing a bit more in spots, sanding some more etc etc.

I've gone the extra and moved up to spray putty (a type of thick, heavy build body spray, available from auto parts suppliers) for the main sections, as there's no detail to obscure yet, and it will hopefully make the job quicker.

Smells a bit though.

Next picture shows a couple of additions to the basic model, that are aesy to add and easily visible in photo's of the real one.

Firstly, and simply, a couple of bars running down each side under the barrel. a couple of strips of card about 2x3mm fixed this.

Second, a bit of a bulge at the rear of the recoil compensator tube. rolled, like everthing else, from paper with the ends sanded to shape.

I made this as a full tube and cut it to fit.

The barrel clamp was laminated up to 5mm thick, and fixed in place. A trick for cutting such heavy laminations is to cut one layer at a time, stick it to the next layer and use it as a template to cut the next layer.

The next part worries me a bit, as its supposed to support the locking mechanism at the rear. the included pieces seemed wofully inadequate for the job, so I made the whole piece anew from a horseshoe of layers of paper superglued at every layer (no white glue) to basicly make what is a solid plastic part. I'm still not sure it'll be strong enough, but time will tell.

*NOTE* I didn't end up using this part at all, due to my subsequent total redesign of the catch. Not a fault of the model, per-se, just a personal choice.

And here it all is again , which essentially completes the barrel assembly with the exception of the sights and screw details.

...Next up: the cylinder. (I really hope it fits past the catch thingy on the back....)
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:02 AM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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Cylinder Started:

I think I've made this more complicated than nessesary, by asuming that I could build it better than designed, without actually testing to see how the design worked in the first place. So I've added extra rings in the middle, and gone with simple tubes at the front, and horseshoe shapes in the top, but this leaves me with a seam accross the middle of the chambers that the "proper" design wouldn't. Appologies to UHU02, you are not to be doubted.

Anyway, pictures:

sorry no pictures of the offending seams, camera recharging.

Now, I mentioned earlier that large quantities of superglue are required for this type of construction. Here's a picture of the carnage so far:

Mind you, I have a barrel assembly I can stand on now.

oh, and in case you are wondering what calibre this monster is, it's only a 22.

22mm! It's puts me in mind of 12 guage shotgun sort of size.

and yes, one of the wonderful thing about this technique is it DOES start looking like crap, but thats no problem 'cos it's going to be sanded and painted, so you can be as messy as you like.

While I'm waiting for the cylinder to set up, I've started on the frame.

the pivot point at the front has to take a lot of stress, so I reinforced the hell out of it.

The whole lower section of the frame right to the back near the handle is pretty much solid laminated cardboard.

Something the instructions would have you do is leave one side of the frame loose so you can fit a retaining pin inside and then close it up. I noticed watching the movie the other night that there's a large screw there, so I'll be going down that route. I've just got get to the blighter out again........:o
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:12 AM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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There's a catch: The swivelling arm at the back of the weapon that swings upwards to open the cylinder break is incorrect. Which is shame, 'cos i thought it was cool. But it appears the 'real' gun used the same arm as a more elegant pin lever instead. well, I want a working break, so set about trying to make it work. and, I might add, Succeded!!!

The lever itself is multi layered paper/ superglue, built over a simple form to get the shape right. This method gives an amazingly strong component, much stronger than an equivelent plastic part.

The spring came from a cheap pen.
I have used a small quantity of plastic tubing for this job, as sometimes you just have to use the right material to make something work.

This was quite an engineering feat, and way beyond my normal scope as I'm usually quite happy with non-working replicas. I'm hugely pleased to say it works, when you depress the lever, the pin pulls and the break swings open. Chuffed.

notice the pictures show the gun still very much at the 'Crap' stage, and still need some serious work.


Jumped ahead to the grip. I've altered the method of anchoring the grip because it suited the materials I'm using, not because the suggested method is inadequate.

I've carved the grips from balsa again, as I did with the Colt Navy, and as you can see from the pictures, I made a bit of a mistake and had to add a bit of extra material to the front 'cos I took a bit too much off.

It's really starting to take shape now.


well, it's been a lousy day for spraying, so I've skipped ahead a bit and started adding some details.

The hammer is nearly done, I used a different card for this as it was a bit more flexible than the 1mm stock I use for most things, and it seems to be working well around the bendy bits. I aslo added ribbing on the top of the thumb break.

The trigger guard has also been roughed out. I needed a redesign from the original, as the proper one has a different shape. I've left the top part/trigger bit in place to make sure it all dried in the right shape, but I cut them away before attaching them to the frame.

...and I've started to add some of the details like screws and the like by scribing them into the surface with a very sharp compass. Try doing that with your regular card model!

I'm about as far as I can go until the weather clears up a bit. Still, I can start laminating my Thompson. or maybe my pulse rifle....
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:19 AM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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the rain seems to have ceased for the moment, so I'm spraying like mad before it comes back.

I'm working on more of the details today, the BPRD logos on the grip in particular.

And now..... Paint!

Firstly, the major parts, all undecoated black. I use a auto primer matt black ( which dries satin, for some odd reason) because it dries much tougher and more durable than a cheap generic spraycan. It will need a few more coats, though.

The thing you want to acheive when painting a model this size, is not to have the whole thing just one colour. This looks flat and unintresting and not teribly realistic. So the first thing to do is make it look horrible. (bear with me..) I've stippled on a layer a gunmetal colour mixed with Citadel Chaos Black and Boltgun metal.

this was followed by a second darker stippling by adding more black to the first colour. you want about midway. The important thing with the stippling is that it be uneven, but consistent. The second layer fills in much of the area not coverd by the first.

Some blue (Regal blue, in this case) and a touch more black was added and the process repeated, a bit less intensly than the first two layers, but evening out the colour a bit more.

A warmer tone was mixed by adding a bit of mid brown with our original colour, and applied around areas of wear, like the hammer, rear and underside of the weapon.

more silver was added in a couple of steps until I had a pleasing worn effect.
These last layers were applied with more of a scrubbing motion and very little paint on the brush. the brush, by the way, is old, largish and looks like a demented spider. useless for proper painting, but great for this job.

Finally, a glaze (a semi-transparent mix of matt varnish, black and blue paint) was slopped on and wipped away untill I was happy with the overall tone.

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Old 06-27-2009, 12:25 AM
mousemuffins mousemuffins is offline
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The Grips:

Firstly, I painted the whole grip a nice orangey brown

Then I mixed up a glaze of dark purply red brown, and applied it with my trusty demented spider brush in a deliberatly streaky manner ( a glaze is a mix of paint and varnish to make a semi-tranparent goo.)

and then I did it again....

..till looked like a deep walnut.

The BPRD logos were picked out in a dirty silver colour ;

and highlighted and shaded a bit for a bit extra life ;

...and then put in place on the gun to see how it all looks..

Just a few more minor details to add, and of course I need to make up a handfull of shells to load it with. they'll also add a splash of colour.
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:42 AM
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jparenti jparenti is offline
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I don't think I've ever seen a cardmodel turned into something so fantasticly detailed and so apparently real!
If you ever leave the house with it, make sure it's in a case. :D I'm in law enforcement, and if I didn't know better, I'd say that thing was the real article!
Awesome, awesome work.
Works in progress:
- New Horizons
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:36 PM
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Plastic Bonsai Plastic Bonsai is offline
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I'm still trying to spot the point in the build where the card model is replaced with the real thing!
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:13 PM
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ThunderChild ThunderChild is offline
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That is spectacular! Very impressive project MM, and a nicely detailed build thread!
What was the final superglue count? :D
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:14 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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Holy Cow! I second what jparenti said, I know some cops who'd stop you for sure. Don't ever carry that through an airport. It is really fantastic. I have used superglue to strengthen small boat hulls but never saw it used to the level of expertise you have shown. Really excellent. The barrel with the rifling takes the cake!
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