Soda/Beer Can Models

[murphyaa]

I'm actually working on redrawing the F-104 right now. I plan on updating the graphics, and making some new versions.

[Bob Penikas]

This is a fascinating thread. Thank you for the details sharing techniques.

Now, my confession:

One of my gift horse heads was returned after it delaminated-fell apart. It appears to be one I tried using a type of super glue. Even though Master Builder Gman93643 recommended using Loctite Gel I hurriedly used Quick Grip that was on hand to return the horse head. Coke Christmas can aluminum sheets from past years were in a box by my work bench. I spent a few evenings laminating some of the sheets and with the remaining Quick Grip tubes I decided to make three horse heads as Christmas gifts.

Granted, I have much to learn and look forward to a Loctite
gel experience.

The horse heads stand 7 Inches tall.
BP

[papermate]

I'll be using an opaque windscreen for the cockpit, and with landing gears as in Murph's original design.

[papermate]

BTW, I welcome anyone who's interested in building anything (models) in cans, or intend to do so, to present his/her work, comments and ideas in this thread. I think Gman who has over 20 years of experience in this field will glad give advice and guidance to new and old hands alike. Though this is a PAPER model forum, all the can models I presented are based on papermodel kits. And thus, there is a co-relation between the two.

[Gman93643]

Originally Posted by Bob Penikas

One of my gift horse heads was returned after it delaminated-fell apart. It appears to be one I tried using a type of super glue. Even though Master Builder Gman93643 recommended using Loctite Gel I hurriedly used Quick Grip that was on hand to return the horse head. Coke Christmas can aluminum sheets from past years were in a box by my work bench. BP

I was introduced to Quickgrip years ago by some of the established builders in the art and I have to say I was not impressed to say the least. Experimentation revealed that it could be a messy, long curing process that eventually did let go. At that point I experimented with Testors, Jet and Loctite super glue gels and settled on the Loctite and I've been using it for probably about 10 years now even on some of my largest models and they are still hanging proudly over my head at my workbench. Another key factor is thoroughly washing the cans with hot water and dish soap prior to shelling them. That goes a long way towards a good clean build...

[rmks2000]

Do you scrub off the inner coating of the can?

[murphyaa]

You're just using paper made from metal instead of wood.

[Bob Penikas]

Thank you Gman,

I score/scratch (removing any coating) on all the joining surfaces.
Is this one of your techniques?

BP

[Gman93643]

Originally Posted by Bob Penikas

I score/scratch (removing any coating) on all the joining surfaces. Is this one of your techniques?

No. During my many experiments over the years, I learned that if you use any type of abrasive to remove the coating, this small bit of alteration alters the cans in some minor way that makes them that much harder to join or causes the cans to eventually lose their adhesiveness. So the process remains to simply wash them out with dish soap and water then set them on a dish rack to dry. Or use the technique I have mastered to remove the paint and logos from the outer surface if you prefer to build with bare aluminum cans...

[Bob Penikas]

Originally Posted by Gman93643

No. During my many experiments over the years, I learned that if you use any type of abrasive to remove the coating, this small bit of alteration alters the cans in some minor way that makes them that much harder to join or causes the cans to eventually lose their adhesiveness. So the process remains to simply wash them out with dish soap and water then set them on a dish rack to dry. Or use the technique I have mastered to remove the paint and logos from the outer surface if you prefer to build with bare aluminum cans...

Wow! That is unexpected. It certainly is a time saver.

Thank you,

BP