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  #221  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:02 PM
hueycobra hueycobra is offline
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I just use the super glue in gell version and your method of using original paper tabs and formers. Wonderful technique in my opinion.
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  #222  
Old 12-30-2018, 10:34 PM
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papermate papermate is offline
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For the formers, card stock will do and no need to glue them to cans.
And for joint tabs, I normally use thicker paper and things like cereal boxes and packaging.
Don't use too thin paper if you're building your model large. Smaller model is okay.
Well, it's sort of mixed media - cans and paper.
Look forward to seeing more of your build.
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  #223  
Old 12-30-2018, 11:13 PM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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The paper understructure technique is a unique and creative method to say the least, but there are times when using it is quite redundant, not applicable, or in some instances not allowed. For example, in many of the competitions that I have participated in during which I have competed against other mediums such as plastic, resin and yes even paper, the judges simply frown on understructure construction so I only use it in certain instances. Even then, I don't prefer to use card stock since I have found that formers and bulkheads can easily and accurately be produced from a combination of can, aluminum sheeting and craft foam. This type of bulkhead/former construction allows one to actually glue the formers and bulkheads to the can outer shell making a more ridged and durable construction. It is this technique that has allowed me to build some of my largest models ranging in size from 3 foot in length to as large as 8 feet in length. Paper understructures simply would not work for such large scale building and I have simply adapted it to smaller scales as well to build more durable models depending on who has commissioned me to build for them...
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  #224  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:42 AM
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Your point taken. With respect, l haven’t joined any competition before and don’t think that l will, so there’s no problem for me to do paper under structure. You are free to do whatever you want to build your cans model. After all, it’s just for fun as a hobby and the sky is the limit to your creativity in every sense. Moreover, don’t think l would build anything larger than three feet as the headache of finding a place for storage other than the incinerator kills the idea right away, ha ha!
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  #225  
Old 12-31-2018, 10:37 AM
hueycobra hueycobra is offline
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For the formers i felt I have needed to glue mine...seems to creat a sturdy structure in my case. My formers are usually 3-5 layers of cardstock glued together (or laminated for those who like to use that term) For the tabs I have just used normal cardstock. I think for the nose of the C-130 thiicker tabs would have made construction difficult. The thicker tabs would have come in handy on the main fuselage though...good tips!
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  #226  
Old 12-31-2018, 11:59 AM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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Oh don't get me wrong papermate, I'm not knocking the process, I am just pointing out that there are a number of similar methodologies to achieve the same aim with possibly far less work developing an understructure, or even using an understructure at all.

Having done this for a long time and competed actively for a number of years as well, I've run into some of the wonderful hobby 'purists' who frown on multi-medium builds. One of them for example, saw the recent article last year in Fine Scale Modeler with the soda can planes built using the card model understructure and his response was, "he's just skinning a paper model with can." But then again, those are the same guys who scour each model at a competition looking for that one imperfection to judge one better than the rest. One of the reasons I quit competing at that level!

In the end, everyone has their own way of doing things and that's perfectly fine. Me personally? Maybe I'm just old school since many of the contemporary can artists building at the same time that I began such as Sandy of Sandy's can cars, or Wayne over at B.C. Air were pioneers and artists I looked up to who demonstrated that you could build beautiful can creations without much need for anything beneath. Today's artists appear to be showing us that you can go the extra mile and build with the understructure and do the same.

No matter which method you opt for, its a wonderful hobby and a labor of love. And the one thing I've learned is that in the end, no matter how much time and effort you put into these amazing creations, you're never ever going to recoup the investment and that's okay. Can artists are a unique lot who often build just to prove that they can do it just as well as its done in paper, plastic or resin. Any many times they succeed because they enjoy doing what they do!

Last edited by Gman93643; 12-31-2018 at 12:24 PM.
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  #227  
Old 12-31-2018, 05:40 PM
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Thanks for sharing, Gman, and I totally agree with you in the last paragraph of your last post.
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  #228  
Old 01-01-2019, 12:59 AM
Bob Penikas Bob Penikas is offline
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Well said Gman, please keep sharing with us.

BP
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  #229  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:38 AM
Bob Penikas Bob Penikas is offline
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Soda Can glues ?

Found a glue test on the internet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4xX7VecgzA

This could save a fellow, new to soda can crafting, experimenting with glues; time.

Loctite is recommended for flexibility at end of presentation 15:27minutes.

BP
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  #230  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:54 AM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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Interesting test for sure. But I would like to see a similar test done on super glue gels containing cyanoacrylate comparing Loctite super glue gel to other brands bonding to a metal surface. I can't imagine using any of those other messy glue products on cans!
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