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  #11  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:29 AM
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CDNGUY68 CDNGUY68 is offline
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I'm definitely enjoying this tutorial. Makes me wonder how easy it would be to transfer to ships instead of planes....
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:36 AM
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Gman93643 Gman93643 is offline
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The beauty of my art is that it works for just about any modeling subject. I have done many other projects besides aircraft. Take a look at this Tiger Tank I modeled a year or two ago:

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  #13  
Old 07-10-2010, 01:04 PM
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Thanks for sharing your nice models, ngwithrsd.

For those interested in larger aluminum sheets I found this supplier:

Aluminum Sheet Craft Metal: All Sizes FAST SHIPPING

If you scroll downwards, you can see they have sheets of aluminum in several different colors.

Terry
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2010, 01:27 PM
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That's an interesting alternative paperbeam. I've emailed them to see if they have a thickness comparable to what I work with. Perhaps it could be used for special projects. Considering that it requires 30-40 cans to make an average model, this could end up being rather expensive...
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  #15  
Old 07-10-2010, 01:45 PM
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Ron40 Ron40 is offline
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Great find Paperbeam. I just ordered the 36 gauge roll for $44.00
I think this will work. They also list a 30 gauge which may also
work. Ron
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Old 07-10-2010, 01:57 PM
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That Tiger Tank looks great in its urban camo. :D
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  #17  
Old 07-10-2010, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron40 View Post
Great find Paperbeam. I just ordered the 36 gauge roll for $44.00
I think this will work. They also list a 30 gauge which may also
work. Ron

The 30 gauge is probably the closest to what I do since it is .010 and most cans are around .0112...
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  #18  
Old 07-10-2010, 04:06 PM
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I will wait and see if the 36 gauge is too thin but it
would probably work with the paper left on the back.
This would probably work on the Fuselage and the
small fiddely parts. As you say the 30 gauge may
work better on the wing sections. Ron
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:00 PM
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one of the techniques I will show later on in construction will show how to give the wings strength with the use of some other aluminum materials...
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  #20  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:53 PM
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Step 4 - choosing the right adhesive

There are many types of glue that seem to work well when constructing with cans and aluminum. I have my favorites and I know that many others within the hobby do as well. Over the years I have used brands such as Quikset super glue because I was able to purchase it at Big Lots in large quantities. But by far the glue that has been both kind and forgiving with this type of hobby has been Testors Super Glue in the 1/5 Oz bottle. This glue is one of the few rated for metal that actually does the job without making a mess. I am able to purchase it in large quantities from my local Hobby Shoppe for around $2 a bottle. In my experience, it is perhaps the best adhesive to use when constructing with cans. It sets at a reasonable time which gives you precious seconds to position a critical part but also fails to leave that dreaded white residue on the cans that most super glue products do. I recommend it without hesitation.





Step 5- Building the first pieces of the model

Once the first few pieces are traced onto the interior of the cans, it is time to cut them out using my scissors rated for metal. I use a pair of Fiskars that are rated for thin metal. Once the pieces are cut out, I then use a hobby knife to cut out any windows. The B-29 has many windows in the first few pieces that I will need to score and cut out using the standard
blade.










Now the pieces are glued to the tabs as you would when constructing a Fiddlers Green type model. For the windows I use clear sheet vinyl which can be purchased from Wal-Mart for less than 2$ a yard. I glue the clear vinyl onto another can piece that also has the windows cut out and it will be glued over top of the entire piece we just cut out and glued.








The clear vinyl I purchase from Wal-Mart. It will be used to simulate the canopy windows of the B-29.





The fuselage piece is glued to its tab and the canopy piece has the vinyl glued to the inside. This part will go over the top of the fuselage piece to give it some continuity. Now the first two pieces will be joined together



The first two pieces of the B-29 are in place. the Testors has done well-no messy white residue!



The reverse side. You can just barely see the canopy piece with the clear vinyl over top of the second piece. On the first piece, I decided to put the clear vinyl on the inside to prevent issues in joining the two pieces. Nothing to it!

Now onto the next step-reinforcing the model to retain its shape!



Here you can see that I have reinforced the inside of the first two pieces by gluing in some strips of cans. This will give the model some strength and will also help it retain its distinctive shape. It has worked, the first two parts are nice and round!



Now I repeat the process and work on the next two pieces of the fuselage. The process is cut out, use the hobby knife for the windows, and place the canopy pieces onto the fuselage before joining them. Once joined, reinforce the inside.



The next two pieces are now glued into place after the canopy pieces are finished. The inside is reinforced with strips of cans and were are looking good.




The reverse side. The B-29 nose is starting to take shape! The Diet Pepsi gives it a very unique look!


More to come soon!


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