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  #2231  
Old 07-31-2020, 05:13 AM
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Marcell,
I'm very optimistic, because my gut feeling tells me that it will work.

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  #2232  
Old 08-11-2020, 12:22 PM
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Hello everybody,

first of all the good news of the last week's Health check that my gut feeling has not deceived me. I didn't want to go under the knife, and after getting a second opinion, no shoulder surgery is necessary either!!!

The orthopedic surgeon I've consulted in the Stuttgart clinic first asked me about my concerns and how I was feeling. And after I've shown him my easygoing windmill-arm rotation, he said, to my surprise, short and sweet: Well then, Goodbye!!! Oops, sorry?

Only then he has looked at the MRI-CD and showed me the defect (1 cm x 1 cm) on the Supraspinatus tendon that the radiologist had found and explain it to me on the model . Accordingly, the term [color blue]Complete rupture[/color] of the first surgeon would be appropriate, but would only apply to this small area behind the enthesis. On the other hand, the tendon would be present all around, so it is more of a "hole" and not a torn tendon, which I initially thought.

In short, he said that he would not operateon me, especially since I have no restrictions on freedom of movement or a loss of strength in my arm, which finally convinced and reassured me.

And so I was able to go back to my Pad construction site completely relaxed and again turn to the two lamp shapes with and without a shade/reflector on the MLP-Side 1,


Source: NASA

whereby it was again about the three circled lamps without a lampshade.

In the meantime I had adapted the splitting of the circuits a little bit more to the local conditions in order to be able to achieve the easiest possible relocation of the lamps.


Source: NASA

In my first attempts I had still experimented with tiny glass beads, which is rather tricky and should be much easier to implement with the help of the new UV adhesive, like my first attempts with the larger lampshades have already shown.

For these three lamps without reflector I used the smaller ferrules (0,5x6), which have an inner diameter of 0,8 mm, through which the LEDs of the design SMD 0401/0402 can be threaded through, as one can see in this image with a LED Sunny White, with the LED standing upright and protruding relatively far out of the small shade.



Here one can see the size difference between the LEDs of the types SMD 0401/0402 (left) and the SMD 0603 (right), whereby the last one is too bigfor the smaller ferrule, but is fitting the larger ferrule.



Here one can see for comparison one of the larger ferrules (1,0x6) for the other lamps on the Side 1, the shade of which I have widened from a diameter of 2,4 mm to 2,8 mm.



Here the switched-on LED (0401) shines in its warm white color.



In the meantime I've got another UV adhesive. The whitish drop on the right is from the Revell Fix-Kit, and the other is an UV adhesive called BONDIC, which looks a little yellowish, but otherwise has similar properties.



At first I only tried without LEDs to create a glass body by building up the adhesive in layers, which is quite feasible with a little practice. One just doesn't have to drip too much glue on, because otherwise it will run too wide before one can irradiate it, causing it to harden, so layer by layer.

One can also make clever use of the force of gravity by turning the sleeve immediately after the glue has been dripped on and allowing the drop to be shaped a little for itself, and only then irradiate it, which initially looked like this.



And with a little practice I managed to create this beautiful glass body.



Then I've repeated the same procedure with an upright standing LED Pure White (0401), so first a drop was dropped for fixing the LED,



which was then cured with the UV Pen,



here with a finished glass body.

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  #2233  
Old 08-11-2020, 12:23 PM
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With a little skill, the small LED can also be inserted flat into the sleeve, which makes the light emission more even.









So much for my feasibility experiments, which show that it's also possible to do without the tiny glass beads.

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  #2234  
Old 08-12-2020, 04:40 PM
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Hello everybody,

meanwhile I took a closer look at the lighting on the Side 1 of the MLP-2 and evaluated these three photos from different perspectives, whereby some lamps are unfortunately covert or not visible.

Thereby I noticed that there are not three, as previously assumed, but four lamps without reflector, which are circled on all images.

The first two images are image details from my reference photos of the MLP-2 during STS-6 (1983), each from a slightly different perspective.

The newly discovered lamp without reflector is the yellow circled Lamp 7, which in the 1st photo can only be seen with difficulty as a point to the left of the vertical strut, and in the 2nd photo as a point to the right of the slant strut.


Source: retrospaceimages.com - STS-6 High-Res. Image Library


Source: retrospaceimages.com - STS-6 High-Res. Image Library

But on this photo of the MLP-2 during STS-28 (1989) one can clearly see at the same lamp arrangement that the yellow circled Lamp 7 has no reflector.


Source: NASA
So I have to scratch four lamps with a glass body but without a reflector with the help of the UV Adhesive technique.

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  #2235  
Old 08-12-2020, 05:20 PM
luro1964 luro1964 is offline
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Regarding the rotator cuff problem: an engineer would have come to the same conclusion as the second surgeon.
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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)-7214525854_733237dd83_z.jpg  
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  #2236  
Old 08-13-2020, 02:50 AM
Revell-Fan Revell-Fan is offline
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Those lamps are beautiful! How are you going to hide the wires? - No, don't tell me. I want to be surprised!
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  #2237  
Old 08-13-2020, 09:45 AM
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Marcell for your nice words.
That's a good question, therefore I turn the question around and ask you where you would hide them, hmm?
BTW, with 0,1 mm the wires are so thin that one can hardly see them. But since there are many of them, I'm still brooding yet, but I already have a few ideas, let's wait and see ...

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  #2238  
Old 08-14-2020, 10:34 AM
Revell-Fan Revell-Fan is offline
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Reason for my asking is this: Usually when I add lights to a model I drill holes into it and fiddle the wires through them. I plan the lighting before I start the build. As you have already assembled the crawler I think it could be very tricky to hide them in the aftermath. HOWEVER, as you mentioned, the wires are pretty thin. You could attach them to the outer perimeters of the single components with white glue and paint them to blend them with the background. In the end they could look like replicated details of the real thing. That is, of course, if it is possible to do so. Nevertheless, according to what you have already accomplished I'm sure you will find a way that not only satisfys the need but also looks great as well.
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  #2239  
Old 08-14-2020, 05:20 PM
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Thanks Marcell for your ideas.

The MLP's lighting is therefore so complicated because I hadn't planned it at first, but only after the MLP was almost finished.

Especially under the Blast Shields it will become rather tricky to thread and attach the LED chains of lamps, because the space there is quite built up and very tight.

But also the first four lamps on the right hand side still worries me, because they hang on a thin cable directly in front of the MLP wall.

But I'm already fiddling about a solution ...

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  #2240  
Old 08-21-2020, 10:04 PM
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whulsey whulsey is offline
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Glad to hear your shoulder is good … and that you continue to amaze me with this build.
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