#151
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Thanks for the info, I'll look into it further and see what I can find. I've always thought that hardware tape would be too thick but might have to give it a try.
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#152
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I am using the aft section skins as the starting point for attaching the realistic finishes. I started off with attaching beige UltraTrim to some plan card stock. I then crinkled the stock a bit because the real skins are not perfectly flat. I then used some chrome colored UltraFilm in very thin strips to simulate the seams. Double sided tape was used to attach the panels to the model.
The silver colored foils are crinkled Chrome UltraFilm. It is self-adhesive so it easily attaches to the skins. The flat black skins are black aluminum foil attached with double sided tape. This type of foil is apparently used in photography studios to block light. In my opinion it simulates the finishes on the actual LEM quite well. I am finding it a challenge to cleanly wrap the skins around the ports where the RCS thrusters will go. I will have to figure out a way to blend in the seams once the skins are permanently installed on the model. The aluminum surfaces are made from aluminum tape (used on HVAC duct work). It is a bit tricky to work with because the adhesive is very tenacious and cannot be moved around once attached. For the lower panel with the vents I put aluminum tape on a piece of card stock. I then scored the lines to simulate the vanes. For the cross members I cut thin strips of the aluminum tape on card stock and attached them using double sided tape. I will add simulated rivets as final touches after the skins are permanently installed. Please let me know what you think. Any comments, ideas, or suggestions would be most welcome. No change to the part count: 726 |
#153
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I built Uhu's LEM about a year ago. It's a fine model, well-designed. Mine took "Best Real Space Model" at a recent IPMS show. Take your time with it and you'll end up with a museum-quality model.
__________________
I'm an adult? Wait! How did that happen? How do I make it stop?!. My Blog: David's Paper Cuts My paper models and other mischief |
#154
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I think the use of the aluminium looks fantastic Wichita. Really looking forward to seeing more up close photos!
Regards Kevin
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Normally the most advanced tech I use is a pencil. |
#155
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Looking really good! And, I learned about a few new materials reading your posts. Looking forward to seeing how you do rivets.
Sergio |
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#156
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Added rivets to the bottom aluminum panels. I used my scriber as an awl to push into the surface. For the aluminum panels I realize it would have been much better to add rivets before attaching the panel to the skins since they need to have to have a backing to push into. I don’t think it will be necessary to do in advance for the other types of surfaces because the rivets I have in mind will be surface details instead of an indentation into the material.
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#157
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Here is a brief overview of my method for creating the skins which I attach onto the finished model.
I cut the printed card stock into the individual panels, then attach the respective material to the panels. Hangar 9 Ultratrim cream colored peel-and-stick polyester film is used for the ‘tan’ colored panels. It is self-adhesive so easy to attach to the card stock. For the ‘black’ panels I use black coated aluminum foil (apparently used for controlling light in photography or video recording studios). Since my glue does not adhere to aluminum, I used Scotch brand Positionable Mounting Adhesive (product number 568) on the card stock, then attached them to the black aluminum foil. Do r bare aluminum panels I am using aluminum tape. For the seams between panels, I am using Hangar 9 Ultratrim chrome colored peel-and-stick polyester film cut in very narrow strips. After adding the rivets and seams, I use the Positionable Mounting Adhesive to attach to the panels to the skins for the finished model. For the smaller rivets I am using my scriber on the back side of the card stock. Larger more visible rivets will be added later. |
#158
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Here are pictures of my method for making the window markings. I also included a close up picture of the door. The labels are just pieces of paper with a pen mark through them...the text is not actually readable.
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#159
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Here are the skins with the realistic finishes attached. I am at an interesting milestone/crossroad with the build. While the skins are separate pieces from the rest of the model, putting them on and taking them off is somewhat difficult and will inevitably cause some damage each time they are removed. While much time and effort was spent on the ‘underneath the skin’ details of the model, I have decided that the completed model will have the skins permanently installed. That means that as the build progresses many of the interior details of the model will never be seen again.
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#160
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You have documented this build as you've progressed. May I suggest that if you display the completed LM in a public viewing that you use the build photos to show the interior off much as Grumman did to document the history of their builds to NASA.
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Non Sufficit Orbis-The world is not enough. |
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