#21
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The parts are copied onto the paper using a laser printer. No other treatment used. |
#22
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#23
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#24
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#25
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Dear all
During this build I hope you don't mind if I include how I am doing some of the things and what I find out as I go along. Hopefully this would be helpful, just in case anyone else decides to have go. I know this forum (if that's the correct terminology for this site) is jam packed with incredible builders and designers and I guess everything I will say will be very low level for them. However I want to include what I find (as a beginner myself) helpful. So on with the build! |
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#26
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Here's something though that might interest you: Moon Race 2001 N1 |
#27
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So I have started the thrust structure. As before starting with 1/48 first and seeing how it goes together and then moving onto the 1/24. I only have one picture so far (lost the others in the operation of tech). However I have decided that for the 1/24 version one critical bit will be the ability to cut out large perfect circle formers (possibly 220mm radius) through thick card. I have found nothing on the market. For the 1/48 model I am a cutter that can do a max radius of 150mm (photo below). It cost £2.00 from "The Works" in the UK.
I have also been experimenting with joining parts on the 1/24 model. Some single parts on the 1/48 version are too big to fit onto a piece of A3 (which is the paper size I am printing onto) for the 1/24 model. So some parts need to be broken up, for example the photo shows that for the thrust structure the "USA" ring has to be made from 8 parts (in the 1/24 version) rather than 4 (in the 1/48 version). Another consideration is the areas for gluing. If just copying as per 1/48 then in the 1/24 case it would be common to glue 30cm x 15 cm in a single go. I am unable to do this and get a good result. However after a few trials I think I have got a good way for the 1/24 model (at least so far) To give you a feel for the size of the 1/24 model I have included the last three pictures First: my tea mug (with Mr Bump on it) and a 1/48 forward skirt of stage one. Second: I have added 1/24 forward skirt ring of stage one (incidentally, Mr Bump on the mug is equivalent to a 5ft tall at 1/24 scale) Third: I am easily standing in the 1/24 forward skirt ring of stage one So I feel the adventure has really started and I hope you all enjoy the ride. |
#28
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#29
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Dear all
First just want to say that the model I am building came from the Lower Hudson Valley paper model site of J. Leslie and I also found the basic instructions article there excellent. The process I am using to enlarge the 1/48 model to 1/24 is as follows: I print off the 1/48 model as usual. Then I arrange the parts physical onto pieces of A5 (which is exactly A4 folded in half). Then since A3 is 200% of A5, I photocopy an A5 sheet of parts, enlarging by 200% on A3. This gives me the parts at 1/24 scale. Some parts are so big they do not fit onto A5 and so have the be cut into smaller bits. One draw back with this method is that colours are a bit "duller" for the 1/24 scale. A better way would be to take the 1/48 scale pdf and take A5 sized regions and print them directly to the printer at 200% onto A3. Unfortunately I do not know how to do this. If anyone knows a really easy way of doing this (that a tech novice would understand) I would be very grateful to learn how. Ok, now to some things I specifically found when doing the 1/24 F1 engines. I found that the former for the nozzle extension (part 2 of page 1) and the former for thrust chamber (part 13 of page 11) had to have a larger outer circumference than drawn (about 1mm "further out"). Best to check before cutting triangular joining tabs. When making the turbine exhaust manifold (parts 5 to 9 on page 6) the red "centre lines" are slightly off when enlarged to 1/24 and it is best to draw new ones and work to them (it makes a difference in the end). Also just for reference I found that for the "petals of part 9" that tabs A,B,D,F,H,J,L are glued to part 6 whereas tabs C,E,G,I, K are glued to part 7. (Really take care lining up petal A since this "fixes" everything that follows). Finally I found the "lugs" (parts 19 and 28 on page 6) are best attached to the combustion chamber and heat exchanger (parts 12 and 18 on page 11) after you have made the high pressure LOX and fuel duct (pipes from parts 33 to 36 on page 16). I found it difficult, using just rods and dowels, to roll and make small diameter pipes. So a friend made a "rolling" tool for me (photo below) It is simply a BBQ fork stem, bent and two dowels stuck on each end as handles. It works great for me and does not hurt finger tip joints. Very controllable and can apply much more pressure than fingertip pressing. It is easy to use for rolling cones as well. The finished 1/24 F1 engine is approx 25cm high and 15cm in diameter. If you like engines I am sure you would enjoy making one of these. |
#30
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ive just come across this so best of british to you look forward to seeing more
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apollo, moon, rocket, saturn v |
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