Contemplating building Alfonso's Ares I-X, but...

[dhanners]

As I'm getting mildly excited about next month's launch of the Ares I-X, I headed over to Alfonso's website and downloaded the model, with the aim of maybe doing a quick build. But I encountered an issue when printing that I've never run into before.

Everything printed out fine except page 3, which contains the Upper Stage. And here's my odd problem: While there are five logos on the Upper Stage -- the American flag, the NASA meatball, and then logos for the Constellation program, the Ares program and the Ares I-X test flight -- my printer only printed the flag and the Constellation logo. For some reason, it didn't print the other three. Just left them off completely. I've never encountered that before.

The printer is an HP Deskjet 3845, and I was printing the model on a cast coated text paper, a glossy stock often used for brochures. I want to replicate the semi-gloss surface of the actual vehicle.

I switched over and tried printing the page out on an Epson Stylus NX100 that I have, and it printed out just fine with the flag and four logos. Tried it again on the HP, and it left the three logos off yet again.

Anybody have any clue what the heck's going on? I prefer using the HP for printing out model stuff, so I'd like to figure out what happened.

[Michiru-Kaiou]

What operating system do you use? Cause this sounds like a problem, that occurred with the earlier version of the Space Shuttle main parts on some Windows 9x machines, where only part of the 2nd and none of the 3rd page would print.

Try the following:

File-> Print, at the bottom of the dialog should be a button "Advanced", click on it, tick "Print as image", hit OK and print it. Beware, this option slows down the printing significantly, but in the earlier problem it was the solution.

best wishes Michiru

[dhanners]

It's a Mac with OS X. I even tried saving the file to my desktop as a .pdf and printed it out on the HP and got the same result. It dropped the three logos.

[Michiru-Kaiou]

Originally Posted by dhanners

It's a Mac with OS X. I even tried saving the file to my desktop as a .pdf and printed it out on the HP and got the same result. It dropped the three logos.

Hm, did you try the "Print as image" option?

I don't have a Mac, so I can't try to reproduce. However I was able to print the PDF-file into a new one using PDF995, the lines are a bit lighter, but everything is on it. If the "Print as image" option doesn't work, PM me your email and I can send you the new file, which you could try. Another option might be to open it in Photoshop and save the page as a new document and try to print then.

best wishes Michiru

[dhanners]

I appreciate the offer, Michiru, but I decided to press on with what I've got.

Anyway, here are some photos of the build so far. As with most of my other models of launch vehicles, I decided to use my trusty method of printing out the rocket's "skins" and applying them to model rocket tubes. For one thing, I hate rolling bodies and trying to get them circular. Just seems like a lot of work, and the resulting structures don't seem strong and are easy to crush. And in many instances, I've been able to find model rocket tubes at my local hobby shop (or online) that are the size I need, or at least very close.

I found a 2.5 cm (outer diameter) model rocket tube that was very close to the diameter of the RSRM. When I test-fit the skin, there was less than a 1 mm overlap. I needed to increase the size of the tube, but by just a hair. So I took some peel-back adhesive paper and cut it the right width to cover the diameter of the tube. I used a piece of angled brass to draw a straight line down the length of the tube, then used that line to line up the pieces of adhesive paper.

I applied one edge of the adhesive paper to the line, then used a dowel to burnish the paper down as I rolled the tube, making for even and wrinkle-free application of the adhesive paper. Once I got the adhesive paper on, the RSRM skins fit perfectly.

And here's my method for applying the skins. Again, using the angle brass, I draw a line down the length of the tube. This will be the line that I use to line up the edge of the skin. Next, I lay a piece of removable double-sided tape down the length of the line. I then lay the skin down with one edge on the tape (I don't press down hard, though) and then wrap the skin around until the other edge lines up with the first edge. It may take a few tries to get everything to line up, but once it does, I press the edges down and rub them with a dowel or knitting needle to get them to lay flat.

I should note that since the seam will eventually be covered with a systems tunnel, I can use the removable double-sided tape. On models where it'll just be a bare seam, I use the permanent double-sided tape, which requires a lot more practice to use. Trust me.

For the Upper Stage, I found a model rocket connector tube (the tubes used to connect two like-diameter tubes) at the hobby shop. They had an outer diameter of 3.85 cm. When I test fit the skin of the Upper Stage on it, the tube was too big by about 3 mm. So I had to cut a slice out of it, lengthwise.

To do this, I wrapped the skin around the tube and marked where the edges wound up. The distance between those two marks (in this case, 3 mm) is the width of the slice that has to be cut out. Again, I used my piece of angled brass to draw two lines where the skin's edges were. Then, I used the angled brass as a guide for my X-acto knife, and making several light passes, eventually cut through the cardboard. I repeated it for the other line.

Once, the strip was cut out, I applied some glue to one edge of the now-open tube and pressed the tube shut. I used rubber bands to keep it closed, and wiped away excess glue as I went. Once it was closed, I glued strips along the seam inside the tube to strengthen the joint. Once everything was dry, I took off the rubber bands and went over the seam with a bit of sandpaper to smooth it out.

When all was said and done, I had a tube that was the perfect size for the Upper Stage.

My other plan was to have the tube that makes up the RSRM extend through the Upper Stage, increasing my chances of making sure the finished model was straight. To do that, I cut out two donut-shaped pieces from heavy cardstock and glued them to the top and bottom of the Upper Stage. Then I could just slide the Upper Stage over the RSRM tube, and things would be (relatively) straight.

While stuff was drying, I started on some of the other assemblies, like the Spacecraft Adapter, Service Module, Capsule, LAS, etc. On these parts, the only big modification I made was to cut off the "teeth" that are to be used to join adjoining parts. Those things never seem to work for me. I replaced them with joiner strips that I cut out myself. In one of the photos, you'll notice that I'm weighting down part of the model so it'll be straight as the glue dries. For weights, I take old pill bottles and fill them with pennies. This way, you can adjust the weight.

You'll also notice in one photo that I'm keeping one of the frustums round while the glue dries by sticking a glue bottle in it so it'll keep its shape. Again, this is another technique that is worked for me over time.

I had hoped to build this model "out of the box," as our styrene cousins would say, but it looks like it'll be easy to add some detail, like the joints on the RSRM, the separation motors, various panels, the systems tunnel, etc., so I guess so much for a quick-and-dirty model. I will say it looks kinda neat so far.

I don't build much in 1/144th scale. Most of my stuff is in 1/96th, but I've already scratchbuilt a 1/96th-scale Ares I, and I didn't want to bother with an Ares I-X in that scale.

More photos when I add parts....

[dhanners]

Got the thing 99 percent done. A pretty nicely designed model, so my hat is off to Alfonso. Not a difficult build, and if you want to add detail, it lends itself well to that. So instead of doing the quick-and-dirty, no-headache build that I originally envisioned, I decided to add a little detail. OK, maybe not "a little." Among the things I did was detailed the systems tunnel (the kit part is two pieces, mine is made of 37 pieces), added the various separation motors, added some panel detail, detailed the lower skirt with the launch pad support structures, and on and on.

Ignore the stand. It was just something I threw together out of foam-core board so I could take the pictures. I'll come up with something permanent later. This was the first thing I'd built in awhile, so it felt good to break out of my dry spell.

As I said, it isn't 100 percent done. I have yet to add the insulation curtain on the bottom of the RSRM that surrounds the nozzle. I haven't added it yet because I'm still researching whether it is there. Yeah, it is certainly there on the RSRMs used to launch the shuttle, but I was watching the NASA Channel the other day and they showed a video of the static test of the five-segment RSRM that'll be used on the real Ares I, and not only did it not have the flexible insulation curtain on the bottom, but it didn't even have a cover on the bottom of the skirt. So I need to find out what the real thing looks like, if I can.

So now for the launch of the real thing, now scheduled for Oct. 27....

[Dyna-Soar]

Beautiful as always Dave.

[dhanners]

Thanks for the kind words. No sooner had I gotten the thing built and stuck up on my shelf when a big wind came along (it's a nice day here in Minnesota, but very windy) and as I sat there watching from a few feet away, the Ares I-X toppled from its temporary stand and fell to the ground. And it was like it was happening in slow motion....

No big harm done, but the LAS tower was bent and loosened. And I had spent so long trying to get the thing in line with the rest of the rocket. Ugh. Oh well. I had formed the tower around a small dowel, so I took the tower off and inserted the dowel, which straightened out the kinks. And the thought hit me, "Why don't I just cut off a piece of the dowel to stick in the LAS tower permanently, so it doesn't bend again?" So that's what I did.

Which brings me to my only real beef with this model. I preface the following by saying I have never designed a model in my life, and don't have the design genius that guys like Alfonso, Erik, Ton, SurfDuke, Leo et al have. I'm just a consumer. But I wish this model had some sort of built-in way to insure that the LAS tower is perpendicular to the rest of the model.

If I were to build the model again, I would extend the "sleeve" that goes around the lower part of the LAS tower by an inch or two. I would then cut out a former disk that would fit in Service Module. This former would have a hole in the center that was the diameter of the LAS tower. When it was time to glue on the LAS tower, you'd just insert it down through the top part of the capsule adapter thingie (that's NASAspeak) and it would go down through the hole in the SM former. Then it would be perpendicular to the rest of the rocket.

As it is, you only insert the LAS tower through the hole in the top of the capsule adapter thingie, and the tower is a bear to get straight.

And while the glue on my LAS tower was drying, I built a permanent stand for it -- a wooden craft base with a foot-long section of dowel glued into it. The model will slide down over that, and it won't be blowing over.

[Retired_for_now]

Beautiful build - creatively repaired - and some good design (or builder modification) notes.

Thanks -

Yogi (occasionally vertically challenged)

[axm61]

David,

That build of yours is just a beauty.
It couldn't be better in the hands of an artist like you, Dave.
Thanks!