#11
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Very impressive build - it'll look even better with a loco on the back.
There's not a lot of ground clearance in the original photo - hope they didn't have too many hills to climb. Things have not really progressed much in the U.K. Where it can work out cheaper to transport a loco/wagons by road cheaper than by rail. Tim |
#12
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Hi Jim, the Scammel is amazing. What materials did you use? Also, do you know which type of locomotive is shown in the picture?
Best, Hans |
#13
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I now realize that I have never seen this particular vehicle before. It is unusual, even for a Scammel and you have produced a beautiful model of the creature.
Don |
#14
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Hi, Many thanks for your kind comments, they are all much appreciated.
Sylverbird, I have used mainly plastic,but also anything that I can lay my hands on that will do the job. The rivets (of which there are hundreds) were produced using a leather hole punch and the lids from butter tubs. The mesh in the engine cover is cut from an old flour sieve that my wife was throwing out and the solid rubber tires were once a Wellington boot I`m in dire need of advise concerning my Modelik Px48 - even at this early stage. Where do I source 1.0mm card for the chassis rails? What do YOU use, please? I tried my local hobby superstore and have trawled eBay. I made a start using the dividers from ring-binders, but although it looks fine (and is the correct thickness) it leaves ragged edges, whatever tool I use. I`ve tried brand new craft knives, scissors and a scalpel, all to no avail. I scanned the relevant construction page and used the print-out to glue to the card, so there is no damage done to the original instructions. ANY advise will be gratefully received. Jim |
#15
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You can buy 1mm card from papermodelstore.com but most of the denizens here seem to use card from various sources - the backing from lecture pads is common or laminating thinner stock up to 1mm.
Cutting 1mm can be problematic - I use a snap off blade cutter with a steel rule as a guide. Best practice seems to be to make multiple light passes to make a cut. I use a #11 blade only for the fiddly or curved bits. If you are getting ragged edges it sounds like you're using too much pressure and tearing the card rather than cutting it. Regards, Charlie |
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#16
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Stuckontrucks, your build of the Scammel is fantastic. I can't wait to see your progress on the loco... |
#17
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Quote:
The first pass is for accuracy - light pressure, focus on getting the cut in the right place. The following passes are for depth, using more pressure for cutting. The blade readily follows the path of the first cut. Usually two or three passes total will cut paper of this thickness. When using this technique be sure to keep the knife blade vertical, or the edge of the part will be angled. Last edited by Art Deco; 03-25-2009 at 10:15 PM. |
#18
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Thanks for that. Talk about `chalk and cheese`, I hadn`t realized just how easy I`d had it over all these years working with plastic and resin. I`m finding the tutorials on u-tube to be a great help also. Even with that, my rubbish bin is still half-full with attempts that don`t pass close examination. I`m dertermined to get it right though!!!!!
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#19
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Another tutorial which might help is on the Yamaha motor site - How to make Paper Craft Models | YAMAHA MOTOR
Regards, Charlie |
#20
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Having made about six false starts on the laminated chassis rails on the Modelik Px48- I had an idea. The point is, is it cheating or a legitimate procedure? Instead of 2 x 1mm card laminates each side, I can produce the same in 2mm plastic in no time at all. Once painted - you would never tell the difference. Deep down I`m telling myself that I should persevere with the card. Any comments ,please?
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