#1
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Carriage making in 4mm
Good afternoon,
With the exception of my introduction, this is my first post, and I hope you'll find it of some interest. A while ago I decided I'd like to build a carriage in card rather than plastic/styrene. My chosen coach is a Great North of Scotland railway (GNoSR) bogie third and corridor composite, which had interesting panelling and, at 14.6m (48') is nicely short, making it ideal fro a small layout such as mine will be. It is doubtful whether one ever got as far south as where my layout is intended, certain, actually, but then it's my train set. I firstly came face-to-face with the need to form curves both at the corners of windows and, larger ones, on the outer panelling. This is fairly straightforward in styrene since one can file it, something that can't -as far as I know - be done in card. So, after marking out some pieces of Bristol board and then applying shellac to said pieces (to stiffen, and, I thought, lessen the chance of 'feathering') I made a small punch and die to fit an old punch that was left over from my P4 trackmaking days. An advantage of having a lathe is that one can spend hours and hours making often unnecessary things... The punch, shown towards the bottom of the photograph, worked well, and I was able to make the two sides, as shown in the photograph. I stuck the panelling frets to the sides proper and then....stalled! I'm not sure how to proceed, but am thinking of wooden floor, wooden roof (I've found a moulding in B & Q that is almost correct - it's a bit wide and slightly too flat, but no-one will measure it) and ends possible of 3mm MDF, and a layer of thin perspex - although I'm not sure how to stick the sides to perspex - anyone any ideas on that? Grab rails, door handles, hinges ventilators corridor connections are items that I shall purchase. Bogies will be modified Hornby, although I might yet use others if I can find ones that look similar. I'll keep you posted, if I may. CliffH |
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#2
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Nice project. Not able to give any suggestions, but I bet someone else will hop in
__________________
A fine is a tax when you do wrong. A tax is a fine when you do well. |
#3
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Sorry not to have any suggestions, but find this project fascinating.
Don |
#4
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you can try a glue called gem tac. usually found in craft stores, used for gluing rhinestones to clothing. if that's what your asking. it does well gluing vacu formed canopies to paper framing. glues to glass also. they is a similar product I think called accu bond, red white blue plastic bottle that has a claim that it was used for minor repairs in space craft.
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#5
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At a RC shop, check out Formula 560 canopy glue. Most of the RC guys swear by it. Goes on white, but dries clear. The trick thing about it is that it remains slightly flexible, so vibrations won't cause it to shatter so your canopy won't work loose. Would imagine this would be a concern also on a model railroad. Also doesn't cloud clear plastic like CA.
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#6
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whulsey, I'm thinking the way the other glues are it's probably the same stuff just called different things, white out of the bottle crystal clear when dry and also flexible. on the list for things that have to look into!
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#7
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Wayne and Ted are ON target. I had forgotten about using Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue to adhere clear plastic windows and vac-formed canopies to stick and tissue flying models. Worked very well.
Appears to be available in the UK via Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zap-Formula.../dp/B01E75Z2MY Don |
#8
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Quote:
Becky |
#9
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Possibly use 3mm square balsawood for the corners and other internal bracing? This increases the gluing surface and makes the structure stronger.
otherDoc |
#10
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Thank you all- canopy glue purchased and about to experiment with it...I'll report back
CliffH |
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