Angraf Lxd2 - Page 2

**pmbirner** · #11 03-01-2010, 05:32 AM

Papercut,

Thanks for the tip on the nitrate dope. It might also be an answer to the other potential problem with the Ty-2. I don't usually like the idea of having to paint a lot on a paper model (one of the great benefits of paper modeling) but it looks unavoidable on this model because of all the rivets/bolts that I'm hoping to add. The nitrate dope base would be a good base coat for the finish coat as well as keeping all those extra smaller bits glued in place while they are being painted.

I noticed that you are using a utility knife (I think that is the correct term) to cut out your formers. I have that type of knife as well. The blades for it are much cheaper than x-acto type blades. On mine when the tip gets dull, you simply break it off and there is another new and sharp tips awaiting you, meaning the blades last a long time. The downside with the utility knife I have is that the whole blade structure has a lot of "wiggle" to it. That's why I usually end up blowing through dozens of no. 11 x-acto type blades while hacking through formers. The holder for x-acto type blades is much tighter and therefore more steady. How does your knife work for you? Do you have any hints on using it? I'd much prefer to use my utility knife--at least for cutting the formers--because its so much cheaper.

Thanks,
Phil

**Papercut** · #12 03-01-2010, 06:33 AM

Hey Phil, you are right about the dope, it seals, keeps the paper from delamination, cracking/splitting open, and is a perfect base for painting. Be sure to do this before you cut from sheets to help in the forming of the paper. Also, this is nitrate dope and does smell, so use caution. The knife you keep seeing in my photos happens to be my favorite knife, it is made in Japan and the only place I have been able to find has been EBay. It is a Tajima C-390 SS 30 degree blade utility knife. The blades are @ a 30 degree angle, razor sharp. I used two blades cutting out the formers, and is only because the 1st blade had been used for the past month. That's right, you will not believe how long the blades stay sharp before you need to change. Hope this has helped. :DRick

**zoli** · #13 03-01-2010, 08:16 AM

Hí Rick don't worry, I did not disappear.(But my job :(:(

)
Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um's Kartonmodell... | Bauberichte | Angraf Lxd2 1:25 mit Lasercut

Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um's Kartonmodell... | Frisch ausgepackt | Angraf Lxd2 1:25 mit Lasercut

I found these only till now unfortunately, but I don't give up.
The engine... so far nice work,keep moving!

Your friend.
Zoli.

**Papercut** · #14 03-01-2010, 06:18 PM

As I was cutting the frame yesterday, I needed to cut a circle in the rear body top plate. Now I had just received a new circle cutter from Hong Kong this past Saturday. So after cutting the top plate out, I was ready to cut the circle and I noticed just how many of these I have already purchased trying to find the one I like the best

. The top 2 are the ole trusted compass type cutter, problem is the red one wants to drift, the Ofla has a wheel for a cutter, neither cut heavy card very well. Bottom two, the Fiskars works OK, but again wanted to drift because of the plastic arm that holds the cutting blade. The winner, the C-1500P. I assure you, if you do purchase, you will not be sad you did. Now the other three will collect dust

. Rick

**Papercut** · #15 03-01-2010, 10:00 PM

Today's progress, the front frame f/the forward nose of the engine. Assembled on a mag matt to insure everything is flat and straight. Another use for those wonderful magnets. The frame box came out flat and flush, hope to have the rear section done tomorrow.:DRick

**Chaldane** · #16 03-01-2010, 11:57 PM

Hi Rick,

I look forward to following along and watching this take shape. The Lxd2 is one that I've been wanting to get for some time now. You're off to a great start!

Corbin

**Papercut** · #17 03-02-2010, 10:58 PM

All nice and square. Held in place w/magnets. Ready for glue. My favorite flavor Duco. :DRick

**Papercut** · #18 03-04-2010, 11:44 AM

Rear body frame.

**pmbirner** · #19 03-05-2010, 03:03 AM

Rick,
What an assortment of tools ideas I'm learning about from you! Can you tell me where you got the "magnetic squaring up device" for lack of a better term. When you mentioned a couple of posts ago that you were using magnets to square things up I didn't realize that the base was also some sort of ferous material with nice squares printed on it that the magnets stuck to. That thing would have really helped me with any number of models where getting things all squared up and straight were basic for the integrety of the whole rest of the build.

Also I check up on your knife and blades and discovered those 30 degree blades can actually be broken off and used individually in an X-acto type blade holder. Those blades so much cheaper than the x-acto blades which I usually purchase by the 100 to a box. If they are as sharp and durable as you say I've got to order some.

Oh, and you're making great progress on your train.
Phil

**Papercut** · #20 03-05-2010, 04:59 PM

:DHello Phil, as always good to hear from you. The magnetic cut board came from Hobby Lobby, it did not come w/magnets, however it did come w/a magnetic metal ruler. Look for it in the fabric section. The magnetics came from EasyBuiltModels.com, very handy little critters to have around and as you can see from the photos, they do the job. The larger plastic coated yellow ones came from a local Hobby/Toy Store, kind of like magnetic building blocks. I use to build balsa models and the wings/frames require a flat and square area for building if you want them to fly right. But I also figured the items would come in handy for card modeling, and they have. EasyBuiltModels.com has a large assortment of magnets to choice from. Glad you like the knife, it as I have stated before is my favorite knife I use! Thanks for the kind words about the build. I hope to start covering the framework soon.

Rick