Angraf Lxd2

[Papercut]

I saved the photos and will start again with what I have been thinking of building. I am still boxing the French Destroyer hull, but thought I would take a break and try something new for me a Locomotive. For this I have purchased a Angraf Lxd2, narrow gage work yard engine. This is a very detailed and well designed little locomotive. I am waiting for some replacement material to arrive from Avantcard.biz before starting since what I have ordered will be added to the main deck which is the start of the build. So as soon as I have some photos of the build I will post. I did notice that when I 1st posted this, two more individuals posted locomotive build threads, I do so hope they will re-post again their threads.:D:D:DRick

[Papercut]

Well I will start out with saying I got all the stuff I was waiting for and I have already laminated the frame work to doubled sheets of Strathmore Bristol vellum, for a thickness of 1mm as suggested by Angraf. This was placed under glass sheets for over a week to insure a well bonded and totally flat frame work. You will notice in the photos the items I received from Bruce @ Avantcard.biz. Various sizes nut/bolts, laser tread plate, diamond cut card and square cut card for the cooling fan shroud screen, covering the fan. And of course another of the wonderful little 55 gal drums, this one has been modified by covering with white card. This seemed to cover completely around w/o any dents, a smooth flow all the way around. Build photos to follow soon.Rick

[Papercut]

Lxd2 def: L - locomotive, x - 4 axle, d - driven by diesel, 2 - the power transmitted to the wheels through hydro-kinetic gears. Diesel: 450hp w/torque converter. Mercedes-Maybach six-cylinder w/turbocharger. Notice in the photos the following, the paper-model is the Modlick offering. Also notice in the photo of the diesel @ work the amount of load this little narrow gauge locomotive can move. This is what drew me to this Diesel Engine, its brute power to get the job done.

[Papercut]

No Honey Do list today and it is Saturday, so what better way to spend the day than cutting card. This is the base plate for the chassis of the Lxd2. This will be laminated to a doubled sheet of Bristol for a thickness of 1mm. Base plate will be glued on the Bristol with a Large size Uhu stick. Will apply the glue to both surfaces. This assures that the bond is complete to ea. surface. Also got a new toy in the post today from Hong Kong, a C-1500P NT Cutter. Now I have the tool for cutting out same size wheels. I really like the design and the way you use this cutter. Got it off of EBay. Hope to post a completed chassis plate this weekend.:DRick

[Papercut]

Applied the top and bottom plates to the main chassis of the Lxd2. I attached the parts w/Uhu Stic. The plates were attached to Canson acid free matt board, 1mm thick. This is the same material as used in framing sold @ Hobby Lobby. I used this because it is very stiff and holds a flat plane, the trade off, very difficult to cut. I had thought about using Bristol, but opted for this for the extra strength. I applied the bottom sheets 1st, then when I came to the upper sheets I hit a snag, no where on the instruction did it show the correct orientation of the upper to the lower and there was a step area that made a difference. After several hours of study, figured it out. I hope! Rick

[pmbirner]

Papercut,
I'm closely following your thread. Thanks for your presentation. There have been a number of railroad engine building threads that have inspired me to break out my Angraf Ty-2. I think your build thread is putting me over the top. Since your engine is also an Angraf (although a bit more contemporary than the Ty-2) I'm interested to see how it all goes together. The advantage with the Angraf Ty-2 is that its been featured in several builds with literally 100's of nice build pictures. I've been saving all those various pictures so that hopefully I would not have too many puzzles as you've already started to encounter. I admire your courage since I would not start one of these big models without someone else having paved the way or in my case lots of different people paving the way with ther builds.

I have to admit I've had little luck with glue sticks standing the test of time and parts starting to delaminate even in during the course of a build. Perhaps if they are big parts they may hold together better. I'll wait and see how yours do over the build. The problem with white glue is that you have the warpages with the big pieces. I do use a spray adhesive for laminating large sheets together to make different thicknesses but it is very difficult to use on even the midsize parts.

One of the other problems is that it takes so long just to start one of these models. Just getting all the bits and pieces you needs to start takes a while. Then it seems one spends a large portion of time getting pieces laminated to a correct thickness before you can begin to build. I spent a good portion of a week just scanning my model in case I made any major mistakes. I think the Ty-2 was is something like 34 parts pages in a larger than A-4 page size so that it took at least two passes with a scanner and sometimes three to get everything scanned. How many pages is the Lxd2?

Good luck in your build and may you keep the momentum going.
Phil

[Papercut]

Hello pmbirner, I was beginning to think I did not have any one's interest. Glad to have you aboard and I welcome any tips you may wish to give. The Ty-2 is a wonderful kit and I too have a copy and a copy of the Ty47 w/laser cut wheels. I have come to love Angraf kits and hope to add to the collection. About the Ty-2, this is a good starting point for any number of builds to include a German WWII Kriegslokomotive. Hope to see your postings soon. I hear ya about all the pre-work and agree it can be labor intensive. I spent awhile studying the plains of what there is of them, ordered some additional parts and just dove in. I have had a Builder's slump for awhile, start working on a project, loose interest and start something else. But I am excited about this Diesel Engine and so far have had a blast, so I hope to keep @ it until completed. The Lxd2 is not a overly complicated, does require prior paper/card experience though to even think about trying to build. The drawings are good but do lack some details of which is normal! There is 2 sheets of formers that require lamination and the chassis plates require lamination as well. Most lamination is to 1mm thick card. There are 14 page of parts, very crisp in color and well printed. You are already aware of this from the Ty-2. The frames were laminated to Bristol w/3M Spray. You already brought out about the glue stick, here is a tip; when you apply the glue with a glue stick (I prefer Uhu) coat the part so that the complete area is slick w/glue, smooth w/no clumps. Place the part on the area you desire and with a rolled rag press the part down w/firm motion onto the card material you are laminating too. I rub until I can feel heat and I know the glue has been introduced into the other area from the master part. I place this under a glass sheet f/24 hrs to cure out. Now here is a insider tip, nitrate dope. Once the parts are allowed to dry completely, sealed w/nitrate dope. Your problem of peeling has just been sealed to the other parts. This also gives a great area to add color w/o color bleed. I hope I have answered your questions, wish you well on your build. :DRick

[Yu Gyokubun]

And I am a lucky fella to catch insider tips, nitrate dope and C-1500 NP circle cutter. Thanks for the tip.
I look forward to seeing the loco is taking shape

[dansls1]

Looks good - sorry I missed this thread until now. Looks interesting - very detailed research on the topic

[Papercut]

Today's progress. Had wanted to have frame work glued up by today, but after six hours cutting, had enough f/2day!:DRick